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Discussion Starter #1
At 50 + mph I have a really bad vibration that can be felt thru the steering wheel,seat,floor and everything in the zuk rattles like hell? This just started about a week ago.I have already replaced both rear U's some months ago and have new tires which I took and had a rotate and ballance this morning but the vibration is still there? Not sure if I have explained this well enough but any ideas??:confused:
 

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if it just started doing it out of the blue without any previous work being done on the vehicle that might have caused it, then it's most likely from something wearing out. Things that can cause something like this to suddenly happen are, broken bolt or stud on the leaf spring u-bolts, or broken sway bar mounts. Things that can cause this to happen if has been progressively getting worse are, worn bushings on the spring hangers, worn bearings in the wheels or the transfer case output, worn shocks, worn out steering damper. Just some things to look at.
 

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vibration

hello there ... my first post on this blog :shades:

vibration can be caused from several factors

1- steering wheel vibration = check steering arm or steering stabilizer, you really would feel a big deal of vibration if you go throw a bump on the road or so,,

3- car vibrate in low speed/ high RPM check the T-case mounts ** or driveline cross garden

2- if the whole car vibrate it can be from the driveline is bent or just need to replace the X that connect the driveline arm to the axles,but if you only feel the vibration on highspeed then it could be the rear axle :)

P.s hope my little experience helped Good luck :gunsmilie:,...
 

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When the vibrations hit, do the front wheels wobble violently from side to side? That used to happen with one of mine whenever I had a tire problem up front. It would happen if a tire was out of round (broken cord under tread), or out of balance. If the components are older and worn (joints, kingpins, bushings) then the vibrations will only get worse.
Adding a lift that changes the angle of the axle (actually the kingpins at the ends) will also throw off the balance and cause vibration. When the caster and camber changes, things get ugly. The changed driveshaft (u-joint) angles also cause driveline vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well,it did kinda just come from no where.I did notice today that when I let out on the gas or clutching it stops then when I get back on the gas there it is again?With that being said ,if its tires it would do it no matter what ,right?I did have my tires rotated & balanced this morning but didnt help?Not sure why im thinking this but Im wondering about front wheel bearings Baratacus stated? It just feels like a different vibration than tires.I have had a vibration before but I thought it was maybe my drive shaft out of balance or something but when I went to the car wash it went a way?? Now that was odd but it didnt come back till now and its 10 x worse.Sure hope its not my T-case!!!! I just replaced the trans!!
 

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At 50 + mph I have a really bad vibration that can be felt thru the steering wheel,seat,floor and everything in the zuk rattles like hell? This just started about a week ago.I have already replaced both rear U's some months ago and have new tires which I took and had a rotate and ballance this morning but the vibration is still there? Not sure if I have explained this well enough but any ideas??:confused:

There is a few possibilities. The yoke of the tailshaft can be bent when replacing uni-joints. A faulty tire which should be detected at time of balancing. The front steering damper may be buggered. It can also be caused by a bent tyre rim. Rear tailshaft uni-joints that are buggered will cause a lot of noise and vibration at higher speeds (over 25 mph or so). Very loose front wheel bearings and buggered king-pin bearings. Grab the top of the front wheel while it is on the car and try to rock it towards you and back to the car. If it moves and makes a noise the front wheel bearing are loose or possibly king pin excessive wear.
 

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When it happened to me, I found it by shifting into T-case Neutral at speed and the vibration went away! Turned out to be a stiff (bad) U-joint on the intermediate shaft. I'd just replaced the rear U-joints, I just didn't go far enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well,bad news!!!! I had a buddy of mine that own a front end shop look at my zuk this morning and i just got the phone call,looks like the transfer case!!!! He said he drove it and its really bad(no joke).Any ideas??
 

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Well,bad news!!!! I had a buddy of mine that own a front end shop look at my zuk this morning and i just got the phone call,looks like the transfer case!!!! He said he drove it and its really bad(no joke).Any ideas??
Did he say what was bad?
Bearings?
Broken gears (like front output shaft)?
Seals?
All of the above?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
no,he's a front end man and he said its out of his ball park but he said its for sure in my drive train.He said maybe a u-joint but he was leaning more in the T-case.Which like I said its been popping out of 4x4?Im kinda at a loss now?Im a so so mechanic so just shy of just replacing the whole thing im lost.Ive never replaced gears or stuff that deep,lol.Ive been wanting to go with lower gears to match my tires anyway plus the 2wd low but we're looking at close to $1000!!!! Out of my range at the moment.Im open ears for money saving ideas??? lol
 

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If the clicking noise is really at the t-case, you can try looking into the front (removable) section of the t-case. After removing the shifter and the front driveshaft, you can drain the t-case and remove the front outputsection while the case is still in the vehicle. Granted, it is easier to work on if you pull it out, but this can be done mounted in the vehicle.
The gear inside that removable housing is the front output gear. The spindle on that gear is prone to breakage. Here are a few shots of a broken gear spindle to see what I am talking about.





The first pic also shows major damage to the housing, but yours may not be as extensive if it isn't leaking any fluids.

*edit*
You can get heavy duty replacements from Low Range Offroad.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well good news bad news...I was talking with a guy at Petroworks today about their T-case all ready built with the gears I need and low 2wd, which is $895.He asked what kinda problem I was having & he said it was most likely my middle drive shaft U's.He explained how to put T-case in N and trans in 3rd and if it was still vibrating that was it,well,thats was it!!! I took my shaft out and I have one side of the U off and its just dust!!!I am having some trouble getting them out though cause I dont own a press!!Im doing it the old fashion way.
Bad news is,he said the 4x4 popping out is most likely my input shhaft wore out and it will need rebuilding.So,sounds like im kinda back at square one but at least I can stlii drive it till I get the $$$.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well,ok,got my U-joints replaced in my middle shaft and was it a pain in the a-- to get them out!!They were in there like a hair in a biscuit!!!But after some help from a buddy and we got them done and that fixed my vibration right up.My old U's were just dust!T-case still popping out but I can live with that till I have the $$$ to get a new T-case.Thanks to all you guys once again for your input....Im learning alot on here from you guys!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Bill,In reference to your photos of the damaged transfer case,with the shaft broken off like that will it still engage in 4x4?Reason i ask is even though my 4x4 idiot light comes on my dash im not 100% sure its actually engaging?I havent really checked for that(I will today when I leave work).My case is not busted like that on in the photo though.I know ill catch some crap over this but im bungie cording my shifter in 4x4 while on the snowy roads then taking it out when on the clear roads.Im planning on replacing my T-case in spring or summer anyway.
 

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I have done the same, so don't worry.
Even when the pin is snapped, it will go into gear. It is just noisier and can eat up the teeth. The pin is what holds the gear straight. The case doesn't need to be cracked for this to happen. Mine was like that because of a catastrophic driveshaft ejection. that's fancy words for 'the shaft blew off and took important stuff with it!'.
;)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Lol,i like the description(took important stuff with it,lmao) well,im wanting the petro works T-case with the 2wd low.I was thinking it was Low Range's which they have one too and not sure if its any different than PW?Ill have to wait a few months though for then $$$.
 

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getting 2wd low is just removing oine of the ball bearings in the tcase that control the shift pattern. Petroworks sold me mine for the same price as the regular tcase, they just asked me if I prefered stock or the 2wd low option. Are they actually charging people more money to do it now?

If they are you can pop out that ball bearing really easily if the case is going to be out anyway.

Samurai – How to set up a transfer case for 2WD-Low | iZook - Suzuki 4x4 Tech Information, Accessories, Travel & Adventure
 

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I have built up a transfer case using the kit from PW, but I don'thave any experiance with the kit tat Low Range is selling for Trail Tough. It looks pretty slick but i can't give you an opinion better/worse. Slick shifter knob though...

Both PW and Trail Tough are shops you can trust. I don't think either kit would be a bad way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Baratacus,If i remember right its like $129 extra when you get their T-case.It comes to $895 exchanged with the 2wd low & updated input shaft options.I'll have to say,those guys at PW have been very helpful and have some cool stuff!!
 
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