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The 32/36 is a decent all around carb.
The 38 'Outlaw' is more for street racing on flat ground (no off camber stuff).

I have an 'Outlaw' set up on an intake that was done custom for me awhile back. tried it out and it screamed! But it didn't like hills. So it ended up back in the garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
The 32/36 is a decent all around carb.
The 38 'Outlaw' is more for street racing on flat ground (no off camber stuff).

I have an 'Outlaw' set up on an intake that was done custom for me awhile back. tried it out and it screamed! But it didn't like hills. So it ended up back in the garage.
Ok, last two questions:
- Is it a straight fit on to the Suzuki engine? No mods or fabrication required?
- Does it equally fit both the 1.3 and 1.6L engines? If so I may first try it on the 1.3L before I upgrade to 1.6.
 

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This GSXR setup will double the HP, increase torque and top end rpm. Will run at any angle as long as the tires are on the ground. For 8v engines.
I have about $1300 into the kit.
 

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double the HP of a 1.3 engine.

The 1.3 is very restricted and capable of much more power. The GSXR won't double your HP by itself though. You can achieve upwards of 100hp with a headder and 2 inch exhaust added to the carbs. If the engine can't exhale then it can't inhale.
 

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Yeah, thats right bolt on some carbs and get 190bhp from a 1.6 Zuk engine :huh:
Fastspec2 built spec 1.3 motor that dynoed at 40 HP to the rear wheels with stock carb, then put on 32/36 Weber and it dynoed at 53 HP and then 32mm GSXR setup put out 74 HP. Close enough and he didn't do lots of tuning to the GSXR setup either and was also using a short runner block type intake. He later told me that he got it to 78 HP but I don't have the sheet for that run.



I am running a totally stock exhaust with a 1 3/8" tail pipe and can rap it to 8000 sitting in the driveway. I have the 36 mm carbs on.
With stock carb and new 31" Trxus MT's I was barly able to get a bark out of it. After bolting on the GSXR setup, untuned, I laid down 31' of rubber on brushed concrete. Was able to hit over 70 on GPS in third gear going up hill at 5420' of elevation.



Fastspec2 has since put a turbo on his 32mm GSXR setup.


2 other guys I sold manifolds to are working on supercharging them as we speak.

Yield2Me has put TBI GSXRs on the intakes now and runs KOH and is having troubles keeping rods in it. He is getting some new custom race rods to add to the forged piston and crank setup now.
Here is his quote to me today..."The GSXR/Megasquirt/EDIS-4 set-up really woke that thing up. At the Parker 425 race, we spun the tires (37" KRT-B's) at the starting line.....which was on California Ave in downtown Parker!!!"

 

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double the HP of a 1.3 engine.

The 1.3 is very restricted and capable of much more power. The GSXR won't double your HP by itself though. You can achieve upwards of 100hp with a headder and 2 inch exhaust added to the carbs. If the engine can't exhale then it can't inhale.
I've been real hesitant as much as I want to add 2" exhaust and some Calmini SS headers.
I don't want to loose an ounce of torque and I really like to keep it quiet. THe carb noise is incredible when you get on it after 4000 rpm. I have been designing a airbbox to help keep that noise down. Winter time puts a damper on things here with no heat in the shop and floor with ice on it. :lol:
 

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This GSXR setup will double the HP, increase torque and top end rpm.
Your original statement was a little misleading then as you now say that you have a built motor. What are the actual specs of this engine then?
 

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Your original statement was a little misleading then as you now say that you have a built motor. What are the actual specs of this engine then?
I don't recall saying I had a built motor. All I did was add the GSX carb setup to it.
It had a brand new $710 hitachi carb on it when I got it. It ran very well but not at 10000'.
As far as I know it is totally stock with 177lbs of compression at a bit over 5400'
The motor has been rebuilt by a muffler shop in AZ for the previous owner and the bill for the long block was only $1300 so I don't expect much of a build out of it.
I did port match my head to the stock metal gasket but did no other internal polishing. I also port matched the intake to that same gasket.

Fastspec2 did build a spec motor for dyno testing. It had a mid range cam and the head was cleaned up with some mild port matching.
Nothing was changed but carbs in his testing.
I saw some dyno sheets with his turbo setup but can't seem to find them.

Yield2Me is running a very built 1.6 8v.
 

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I also don't know if Fastspec2 built the 13a or 13b motor where he was able to nearly double the HP with these carbs.
My gas mileage increased too. I went from 18 stock to 33 with the 32mm carbs I had and to 24 with the 36mm ones.
 

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Here is a post of Fastspec2 about the engine and his dyno tests with the 3 different setups. His final HP of 78 with the GSXR 32mm carbs was what he told me and 75 is what he posted on his dyno sheet after this post was made.
He did the stock carb test with stock intake and exhausts. The Weber had the center of the intake taken out.

From Fastspec2....
Sooooooooo, I got some more info. I will get the dyno sheets up and going hopefully today as I'm running into a bit of technical difficulty with the dyno computer. I will also get some pics and whatnot up as soon as I find the damn cable for my camera.

So here is the goods.
the factory intake manifold and exhaust manifold were engineered to not work. That is the only possible explination I can come up with. Someone had to try and suck this bad.
I built a solid run of the mill 1.3 its specs are

1.3 standard bore
flat tops
.010" 1.6 head
.045" head gasket
I used the tnt camshaft
this engine spec'd out to 9.0 CR as the potential owner wanted to be able to run crap gas. (not my choice, run premium and build the motor to use it and all is better)
The truck had a 2" exhaust and a electric fuel pump at 3.5 PSI
It ran a stock distributor at 10*
In the passed I have clipped off between 55 and 60 whp depending on tires and whatnot with this recipe given a good carb/manifold and header. For the sake of testing I ran a factory 1.3 exhaust manifold and factory carb and intake.
I ended up makeing a whopping 40 hp. Wich is very close to the factory output. Swapping out to a known properly jetted weber and a good calmini header brought HP up to 52. Recurving the distributor to get 34* got me 55hp. wich is about what this setup really should run.
So while this recipe is worth about a 30% hp improvement, you really need the good intake and header to make it work.

Running my first prototype intake manifold on this same engine with less than ideal jetting netted me 71 HP and 64 foot pounds. this is with the short runner and the 32mm carbs.
So looking at it this way, we see an improvement of almost 100% over a factory 1.3 engine at the tires. Anytime you can double the output of a motor you gotta wonder what the engineers were doing all day at work.
 

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oh and when I said you would get upwards of 100hp from the GSXR and a set of headders, that's BHP not WHP.

Gecko posted test numbers that showed WHP which is a representation of what your vehicle is putting to the road. People with different gear boxes or aftermarket wheels or worn out drive train components will have varying results. The WHP on your Suzuki on the average is going to be about 25% less than the BHP because of powerloss through the drive train.

I was getting pretty close to that with an untuned 1.3 no dizzy curve and Just the 4 throttle body CV's and header. I ran with a 2.5 exhaust for a while with just a cherry bomb glass pack on it. It sounded like a WW1 bi-plane coming down the street and you could hear it a half mile away. Not enough back pressure though so I couldn't keep it from running too lean off throttle and it didn't have the torque it had before switching to the 2.5 exhaust. I went back to the 2 inch and put the muffler and cat back on and I got my low end torque back and I wasn't splitting eardrums. It still had a gnarly growl to it.
 

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Yes it is talking about WHP. Which is fine as long as you are running the same tires and pressure on the same vehicle. The numbers just can't be compared to other vehicles like BHP can which is what we here mostly of.

I used to have the opposite issue off throttle engine braking down hills. It would load up and I would have to rap it every now and then and get a puff of smoke.
This with my stock exhaust setup.

I changed the pilot jet back to stock and messed with the pilot screw and now got it perfect.

The WB AFRM is so key to a good tune.

The SG intakes were terrible that I had first. THey caused many issues as did the filters he supplied. So I made my own intake and cooling setup.

I think a 2" exhaust is the max I would even consider and may even restrict it more at the muffler or tail pipe.
 

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Yes it is talking about WHP. Which is fine as long as you are running the same tires and pressure on the same vehicle. The numbers just can't be compared to other vehicles like BHP can which is what we here mostly of.
That shouldn't make any difference, the dyno software should correct the gearing to 1:1. Usually the gear ratio is displayed on the monitor.
 

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You can gear it down or up and you can have an estimated rpm output of the wheels, but it doesn't take into consideration how many gear boxes it went through and how many gears, what viscosity your gear oil is, what your drag from your wheels are. The Samurai's power has to travel through 4 universal joints and three gear boxes just for 2wd. 4wd it's 6 universal joints and 4 gear boxes. The innertial weight of larger wheels increases on a curve with the rpms and there's also the resistance of a larger contact patch. That's why when you see a dyno sheet you need to know the drivetrain setup as well as the engine setup to get a good picture.

I know it was mentioned earlier in another topic. When dealing with a samurai it's very dificult to get equal results between two stock samurai on a dyno. They're 20+ years old and who knows what kind of condition the power and drive train are in. You find a balpark within 5-10 hp, but it's not possible to tell someone that they will get an exact ammount of power down to a single unit. :cool:
 

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I've been trying to follow this and I've read it a few times but still don't follow what BHP and WHP is. Are we talking rear wheel HP and flywheel HP? I think wheel hp=whp? But the b baffles me.

Keep going guys... I'm very interested in this thread but would be even more interested if we were talking torque and not so much HP. It's torque that gets you moving. HP is only torque X how hard you hold the skinny petal down.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I've been trying to follow this and I've read it a few times but still don't follow what BHP and WHP is. Are we talking rear wheel HP and flywheel HP? I think wheel hp=whp? But the b baffles me.

Keep going guys... I'm very interested in this thread but would be even more interested if we were talking torque and not so much HP. It's torque that gets you moving. HP is only torque X how hard you hold the skinny petal down.
BHP = Break Horsepower (HP right out of the engine, from my understanding).
 

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BHP = Brake Horse Power, its brake horse power irrespective of whether its measured at the rear wheels or at the flywheel however its fairly common to use the term rwbhp or whp to differentiate between the two. Its called brake horsepower because its measured (or not, see below!) by placing a load (brake) on the engine.
BHP = (torque * rpm)/n and is a calculated value, a dyno actually measures torque.
 
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