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Discussion Starter · #141 · (Edited)
Well, it took a new battery and about 30 seconds of cranking, but it fired right off!

I ran open headers just to test it. No radiator, exhaust or peripherals. Blew carbon and oil all over my new paint!!

But that's ok, I didn't want that mess in the upper cat.

Tons of smoke, then it smoothed out nicely after it burned off all the PBB in the cylinders.

My first start motor oil is conventional 5-30 with about 4oz of seafoam. I'll run it for a while and replace it with full synthetic.

I ran it for about 30 seconds total. Tomorrow I'm gonna replace the starter which was sparking pretty good.

[Edit: I took down the video. It runs.]
 
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Sounds like a demented chainsaw muaghahaha

At least its running. Well done
 

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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
Sounds like a demented chainsaw muaghahaha

At least its running. Well done
Yeah I was thinking motorcycle. Ha. We had a good laugh, lots of smoke.

I took down the video bc it had personal info. Probably shouldn't do that.

What would cause a starter to spark like that? Fortunately I have 2 more.

Lots of trans fluid into a pan, since I didn't hook up the radiator cooler lines. I probably shouldn't run it dry. Very old, dank fluid.

I'll try to figure out how to post a video.
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 · (Edited)
Question please, before I forget:
Does the thermostat housing also get sealant? Nothing specified in the service manual. The thermostat has it's own rubber seal so I wasn't sure what folks usually do there.

Today:

I installed a different starter, which works fine. Then I attached the XL7 alternator which fits great and all connectors were compatible to the Tracker's wiring. I believe it's 90A or something like that? Slightly larger in size than the stock 60A too, I believe.

Next was the exhaust manifolds, Y pipe and midpipe to complete the exhaust. Then I drained and refilled the transmission, and joined the trans cooler hoses together temporarily so it would hold the clean fluid. The power steering pump was next, then we started it up again.

Sounded great, strangely quiet, very little blue smoke. Next will be the belts and hoses. New radiator arrives Friday.
 

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If there's a seal there, I use hylomar on it, and any gasket. If there is no seal or gasket, hylomar
Its one of those things, use it and it won't leak, don't use it and it might. I prefer the added peace of mind factor As I hate fixing stupid leaks that shouldn't be there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
If there's a seal there, I use hylomar on it, and any gasket. If there is no seal or gasket, hylomar
Its one of those things, use it and it won't leak, don't use it and it might. I prefer the added peace of mind factor As I hate fixing stupid leaks that shouldn't be there.
Thanks. I found a stamped metal gasket online for only $5. It'll be here tomorrow. I'll see how well that works. I think thats what GM used at the factory. If it's not right I'll just seal it up and move on.

The thermostat housing is very accessible, so whatever happens I can deal with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
Here's a photo of my progress. I'm replacing fuel hoses, and painting little trim pieces.

What's the secret to getting the strut brace to sit down? Six bolts total. I have 2 bolts attached on each side, but I can't get the bolt holes closest to the fender to line up. Maybe it just needs to settle in.

Is it important to torque down the front control arm nuts/bolts with the vehicle's weight on it's wheels? I did not do that, because I couldn't get a torque wrench on them. So I torqued them on jack stands. Could that be preventing the struts from settling down?

Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive air manifold Car Automotive fuel system
 

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Yep. You pulled the body out of shape a bit. Loading the front tires should bring things back in to perspective. If not that, back on all fours.

And yeah, I'd additionally locate / torque down any other suspension related components when loaded in normal ride posture.
 

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I was under the impression that he WAS dangling the suspension. :unsure: Maybe not!
 

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I think a couple things are being conflated here: The strut brace should be installed as shown above. The front control arms (What might also be called a-arms) are not the strut braces, and torqueing them while on jack stands should have no effect on the strut brace.
To answer the original question regarding the third strut brace bolt on each side: I have YET to have one just line up if the vehicle was on jackstands for a while OR was left on it's wheels without the brace. In that situation I just use a small prybar to nudge the strut into alignment with the brace. Get all 6 bolts in but not tight, then torque them all down. The strut will actually move quite easily +/- 1/4" or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
I put the car back on it's wheels yesterday and THEN tried to install the strut brace. No go. When I tried jacking it up again, to align the bolt holes, it got even worse. So I let it back down and washed it, just to make myself feel better.

I'll get it.

Re the lower control arm (called the "front control arm" in the manual) -- I torqued it with weight off the wheels. Maybe I'll drive up onto ramps and redo them... Anyway I was just wondering whether that premature tightening might be keeping the struts from lining up with the brace.

Then I thought, how can that be? The LCA bounces up and down a hundred times a minute.

So no, pre-torquing the LCA can't be a huge issue. So I figure it must need to settle in. I'll raise it back up and try again per the instructions above, thanks guys.
 

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The control arm pivot bolts (in fact any suspension pivot bolt) should be torqued with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension - it reduces the likelihood or bush failure.

The pivot bushes will typically be made of rubber bonded to an inner and outer sleeve, the outer sleeve is (in this case) pressed into the control arm, and the inner sleeve clamped at the two ends - if tightened with the weight of the vehicle on the wheels the rubber is not under tension, and the up/down movement of the suspension twists both ways from the rest position - if tightened at full droop, when the vehicle is lowered onto it's wheels the rubber is twisted and as the suspension is compressed it is twisted even further.
 
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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
The control arm pivot bolts (in fact any suspension pivot bolt) should be torqued with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension - it reduces the likelihood or bush failure.

The pivot bushes will typically be made of rubber bonded to an inner and outer sleeve, the outer sleeve is (in this case) pressed into the control arm, and the inner sleeve clamped at the two ends - if tightened with the weight of the vehicle on the wheels the rubber is not under tension, and the up/down movement of the suspension twists both ways from the rest position - if tightened at full droop, when the vehicle is lowered onto it's wheels the rubber is twisted and as the suspension is compressed it is twisted even further.
You're absolutely right and I knew better. I'll retorque them on ramps.
 

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You're absolutely right and I knew better. I'll retorque them on ramps.
Don't forget to loosen them right off before you retorque so they settle in the correct position
 
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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
Don't forget to loosen them right off before you retorque so they settle in the correct position
I put the car back up on jack stands and loosened both bolts. What is to loosen them "right off"??

In that situation I just use a small prybar to nudge the strut into alignment with the brace. Get all 6 bolts in but not tight, then torque them all down. The strut will actually move quite easily +/- 1/4" or so.
That's been my experience too. But take a look.

Vehicle is on jack stands, w/ wheels off. One side of the brace has all 3 bolts in, loosely. This is what I'm looking at:

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Rim Automotive fuel system


That's not gonna nudge over.

I also found this:

Automotive tire Tire Carbon Bicycle part Rim


I can't get a good photo back there, but it says:

2.5 LONG R
41069-67D10 011109


I'm finding nothing on that part number. Could this be some sort of suspension lift?

The GM manual is not helpful. Says to partially lift the vehicle and install the 3 bolts on each side. :/

Am I safe to run without the brace for a while? I'd prefer not taking the whole suspension apart again right now if I don't have to.
 

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DO NOT run with the brace removed, its intention is to stabilize the shock towers and in doing so hold the front suspension in place...

If it does not line up with the wheel of the ground gently lower the vehicle until the brace fits the fasteners,,
The jack should be centered on the front cross member..
 

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To loosen right off means exactly that, about finger tight.
 

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Yowza, that's a fair bit off kilter there! Is it possible that brace got manhandled while off? How long was the vehicle left on the ground and no strut brace? IIRC, the Bazuki was pretty far off kilter also, and it took some persuasion. It was left with the wheels on the ground/no brace for at LEAST a couple 3 years though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
DO NOT run with the brace removed, its intention is to stabilize the shock towers and in doing so hold the front suspension in place...

If it does not line up with the wheel of the ground gently lower the vehicle until the brace fits the fasteners,,
The jack should be centered on the front cross member..
The car is back down on all four wheels with brace removed. All suspension components finger tight for now.

So it's ok to use a floor jack on that transmission cross member? The GM service manual says not to do that.

Yes I imagine that would make a difference.
Lifting from the center.

Any thoughts on that "long" strut? Do they all say that??
 
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