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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the 2.5 v6 in my tracker. I can hear a noise that kinda sounds like a rod knock but it will only do it under a load. I can spin the tires on snow and it wont make the noise but on drive pavement getting up to speed I can hear it. If I take it easy on the pedal it doesnt make the noise as bad. If i get on it then it is bad. I put it in 4wd and put it in reverse and put the parking brake on and I am trying to find the noise with my head under the hood. I rev the motor at the throttle body and I can hear the noise on the driverside towards the back of the engine but cant tell if its in the head or lower end. Any one have any idea what it could be or how to find the noise? I have no metal shavings in the oil so I cant see how it could be a rod bearing or main bearing. anny help would be great
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Had a friend stop over he thinks it is in the top end. Thinking lifter or a bad valve. going to pull the intake and valve covers off and pull the plugs and see if i can figure it out this weekend.
 

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Good luck with diagnosing the problem Cmays03. Tracking down these sort of "noises" can be a bottomless pit at times. Being you are hearing the knock primarily in "under load" conditions, I would suspect something in the rotating mass. Have you had an oil analysis? Maybe cut open your current filter to double check for metal :confused:.

No matter what you do, if the valve covers come off, be sure to drill extra oil drain holes on the underside of your valve covers to help drain the oil out, and eliminate the possibility of the "blue smoke" issues with the v-6's. Good luck.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
U talking about drilling holes in the metal shield that's in the valve cover? How big of holes?
 

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U talking about drilling holes in the metal shield that's in the valve cover?

Yes. Look for the fluted drains on the underside, and drill a hole. Read from page 5 or 6 from this thread. http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-199...aust-smoke-pcv-info.html?highlight=blue+smoke

A suzuki mechanic said they did this in Australia to cure the oil burning and smoke on start up and under load issues, and also recommends what size hole to drill. Good luck.

Jim

In Edit: Looks like a 4mm hole next to or above the factory drain holes will do the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I got an inspection camera and put it down the spark plug holes and the pistons look fine. Was thinking maybe I was getting a valve hitting a piston. Well I am lost as to figure it out. Only thing I can think of is to tear the top end down again and see if its in the lifters. I can clean the valve cover out then too. I was thinking maybe the timing chain is really loose and the cams were out of time a little and letting a valve hit the piston. I would change the timing set but it has 243,000 miles on it and I dont think its worth the money specially if this noise in not caused by the timing chains some how. I am thinking it might be lower end but not sure. I think it would be best to just save up my money and find a good running low mileage engine for it and be done with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well friday night I pulled the spark plugs and looked down in them and they look fine. I cleaned the spark plugs up had a little white residue on them. I cranked the engine over a few times with the plugs out and then put it all back together and today when I went to work and the drive home the noise is gone. Well for the most part I have to really get on it for it to make the noise again. So I am thinking it has something to do with the spark plugs. Going to replace them and do a timing chains on it also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I just wanted to let you all know I found a local junk yard that has the valve covers for $20 each. going to get the drivers side and see about taking that steel plate off and see whats under there and clean it out really good and see if I have to put that plate back in or if I can modify it just for the pcv valve. If I have to put the hole thing back I will figure out the best way to reinstall it. I will get pictures with it off and what ever else I can think of.
 

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Pic from the earlier linked thread...



It appears that the baffle sits on shouldered cast-in "stand-offs", then machine peened over to retain the plate. My guess anyways.

Knocking / grinding off the heads to expose the cover underside will be easy.
Re-attaching the baffle? :huh: Clean and TIG weld a dab of aluminum filler rod there maybe?
Drill / tap for screws? Kinda' small diameter. That and if the screw backed out down the road...OUCH!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah not sure how I will reattach it. I'll figure that out once I get it apart and see what is under it and how they had it attached. I'll figure something out. I'm a machinist and welder by trade so I'll figure something out and post pics and what I did.
 
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