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Strangely after my car failed the smog test and ended up with a CEL I cleared the code and drove about 80-90 miles without it coming back on. I retested and the car passed smog without a hitch. The issue has not resurfaced yet.
The next thing I need to trouble shoot is the very poor gas mileage, about 14 MPG in the city.
 

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new TRS

Just picked up my new TRS, just wondering if anyone has any secrets on getting the old one off smoother since I've heard how much of a pian it is. Please get back to me ASAP.
 

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Just picked up my new TRS, just wondering if anyone has any secrets on getting the old one off smoother since I've heard how much of a pian it is. Please get back to me ASAP.
Not much to it, just remove the center bolt and the 2 side bolts. You will have to pry the TRS out as it is tight on the shaft. I did not remove the cooling hose but I had a helping hand holding it out of the way for me.
 

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Here is how to do the adjustment without the "tool."

Not only did I have to replace the throttle body in my car in the past week, I also had to replace the Transmission Range Sensor. I had a buddy of mine, a former mechanic, help me with this mainly because I knew if I had issues, I would be clueless how to fix them. Besides, the hard step is a 2 person job so you will need to have someone on standby. Anyway, once you finally get the senor removed, you have to carefully align the new sensor so that it fits over the shaft properly. There is a flat section that is next to impossible to see while you try to align it, but it will not work properly if it is not aligned. We found this out the hard way. Once you get the sensor on (Leave both bolts, in the oblong or oval shaped holes, slightly loose), put the cable link back on and make sure everything is connected as if you are done with the install. Now, here is the trick: Sit in the car and start it and put it from park into reverse while keeping your foot firmly on the brake. Feel the transmission engage and look at the digital readout on your dash and make sure it shows R for reverse. If it went into gear and showed R, then slightly let off the brake and allow the engine to move the car back to ensure it is in gear. If that works, engage the brake again and put the car into neutral then drive. Again, look at the display and make sure it shows N when the car is in Neutral and D when the car is in drive. If at any time, the display flashes all of the letters/numbers of the gears (P, R, N, D, 3, 2, and 1 display together and it looks like a jumbled mess), it means the sensor can't properly detect which gear you are actually in. Again, make sure the 2 bolts are slightly loose in the oblong holes on the sensor. While it flashes all the letters/numbers at you, have someone (You are still in the car with your foot firmly on the brake) gently move the sensor until you get a clear display with the letter D for drive. Make sure you hear or feel the transmission engage and slowly let your foot off the brake to ensure the engine engages and the car goes forward. Throughout these checks, you should not press the gas. Let the car go forward and back on its own power while you maintain vigil on the brake. If the car goes forward, put the brake back on and put it back through neutral to reverse. Again, make sure the display shows R and the car goes backward when you slightly let off the brake. If this works, tighten the bolts down on the sensor. If it doesn't work, keep trying until you can get it from reverse to drive with zero issues. Hopefully, that's not super difficult for most. It was fairly simple and only took us a few minutes to fix once we figured it out. Just be careful while you're doing this operation. Having someone work inside your engine while the car is in gear is very dangerous. Make sure you and the person helping you know what the hell you are doing and avoid any mistakes that could have deadly consequences. Hope this helps.
 

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@pike0101: That is one fantastic first post, buddy! Great info there; very much appreciated. (This forum needs a "like" or "thank you" button for posts.)
ETA: Found the +reputation button, so, yeah... ;)
 

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I do what I can.

@P1NkY: I figured since there was 9 pages of information to help me solve most of this issue, I would share the fix that my buddy came up with to solve the rest. Share the wealth. LOL Again, if anyone has any issues or questions with my prior post "tutorial," please ask.
 

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Heat is the cause of TRS Problems

I have an 07 forenza. The TRS problem has plagued me from about the 60,000 mile point. We replaced the TRS 4 times and the transmission was replaced by the dealer. It seemed to fix the problem, we loaned the car to some friends who were down on their luck. The problem resurfaced with a vengeance. So we took the car back and started to look closely at the problem. They neglected to change the oil for 7000 miles, it was two quarts low and the antifreeze reservoir was dry. I thought it was toast. But I hoped to get it working somewhat so I could sell it at a lose.

I did a couple of oil changes to get rid of the sludge in the engine, flushed the cooling system and replaced the Dex cool with fresh conventional green antifreeze and it seemed to be driving better. The car was running cooler and the transmission problems seemed to lessen. We took a look at were the TRS is located, in the direct flow from the radiator fan. So I created a barrier from that flow with a piece of thermopan ductwork insulation.(thermopan is cardboard faced with reflective material on each side), this barrier is just long enough to cover the TRS region and the front face of the transmission filter. Do not cover the TRS from above let the air circulate around it but you must protect it from the direct blast of the radiator fan. I used tie raps to fasted this barrier to the lower radiator hose.

I believe the root cause of the TRS problem is poor design and placement of the TRS and cooling system. I believe the radiator is marginally sized for this car. Any degradation to its function causes it to work harder to keep the engine at operating temperature. (The electric fan runs longer blasting the TRS with a blow torch of heat.) So at 60,000 miles, the Dex cool is breaking down, the radiator is getting clogged internally, dust, grease and bugs are obstructing the radiator flow and the condenser is getting flattened by road debris. All of this is obstructing flow and heat transfer from the radiator.

PS I replaced the TRS myself the last two times, and I kept them. I put one of the old ones back in and it is still driving fine.

Just good maintenance and a couple of dollars for a heat shield and I am back on the road reliably.
:lol:
 

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really nice piece of info!! good detective work. hopefully the car will keep running fine. update the post after a while and let us know how its running.
 

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Wow! That IS good advice, Mike!
The TRS is just a bunch of springy metal contacts, so I can definitely see where the heat would affect them due to thermal expansion!
I will definitely be trying that out, maybe fabbing up some kind of duct to direct fresh air from underneath the car or something.
Let us know how it goes, please!

Yet another great first post! Thank you!
 

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Hello all! I have an 08 and it's been having some transmission issues. The rep I spoke with over the phone said it's the TRS so I did some research and found this helpful thread. Something that concerns me, however, is my symptoms seem a little different than the rest on here. My car clunks and jerks from time to time when shifting from what seems to be 3rd to 4th. Also, on occasion it seems to be stuck in the highest gear even when starting to move from a dead stop. The engine light did come on when the latter occurred.

Is this also the TRS? I was about to purchase one from the dealer to change myself but wanted to be sure before spending the money.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Hello all! I have an 08 and it's been having some transmission issues. The rep I spoke with over the phone said it's the TRS so I did some research and found this helpful thread. Something that concerns me, however, is my symptoms seem a little different than the rest on here. My car clunks and jerks from time to time when shifting from what seems to be 3rd to 4th. Also, on occasion it seems to be stuck in the highest gear even when starting to move from a dead stop. The engine light did come on when the latter occurred.

Is this also the TRS? I was about to purchase one from the dealer to change myself but wanted to be sure before spending the money.

Thanks in advance!
That is exactly what my '05 does, also. It is not necessarily the TRS, so you should get it scanned first. When it's the TRS, the dash gear indicator will show some weird symbol instead of the gear you're in.
I have to drive mine in 3rd around town so it does not act up. If I have to do any freeway driving, I first let it get up to speed (around 55-60 mph), let off the gas pedal, shift into Drive, watch the RPMs until they go low -indicating it has in fact shifted into drive- and accelerate slowly thereafter.
If the engine light comes on, yes, it will be stuck in 3rd gear, so just pull over and clear the code with a scanner and turn the ignition off and on 3 times to reset.
This may not be the same issue your car has, so get it scanned (or buy a cheap OBD2 code scanner/eraser and sca it yourself) if the engine light comes on.
My problem is most likely caused by a damaged "brake C clutch piston seal" in the transmission, which I have not sourced yet, as I simply do not have the funds to do so.
Good luck with yours!
 

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That is exactly what my '05 does, also. It is not necessarily the TRS, so you should get it scanned first. When it's the TRS, the dash gear indicator will show some weird symbol instead of the gear you're in.
I have to drive mine in 3rd around town so it does not act up. If I have to do any freeway driving, I first let it get up to speed (around 55-60 mph), let off the gas pedal, shift into Drive, watch the RPMs until they go low -indicating it has in fact shifted into drive- and accelerate slowly thereafter.
If the engine light comes on, yes, it will be stuck in 3rd gear, so just pull over and clear the code with a scanner and turn the ignition off and on 3 times to reset.
This may not be the same issue your car has, so get it scanned (or buy a cheap OBD2 code scanner/eraser and sca it yourself) if the engine light comes on.
My problem is most likely caused by a damaged "brake C clutch piston seal" in the transmission, which I have not sourced yet, as I simply do not have the funds to do so.
Good luck with yours!
There's actually a TSB regarding that seal issue (TSB No.: TS 08 12018R). Are TSBs not covered under warranty?
 

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There's actually a TSB regarding that seal issue (TSB No.: TS 08 12018R). Are TSBs not covered under warranty?
Yup, should be! As long as your '08 is under 100,000 miles, you're golden, so try your luck with the stealer- eh, dealership.

My back story/rant: I made a 4 hour round trip drive to my Suzuki service center last year, and sat in a waiting room for 45 minutes only to be lied to by an employee informing me that my car's warranty was only good for 5 years. I argued I'd read online that it was still under warranty, but he insisted I was wrong and he was right. As I had no readily available proof, I left, embarassed, furious and disgusted, vowing never to deal with Suzuki ever again. In retrospect, it was probably better to have left, as I considered doing things to this employee I might still to this day regret.

I have been told here on the forums to contact Suzuki HQ in California, but they would just refer me to HQ here in Puerto Rico, which is where they screwed me over. I will never again purchase a Suzuki product and will encourage family, friends and anyone I meet to do the same.

Sorry for the rant.
I sincerely hope they take care of you and it all works out!
 

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I have an 07 forenza. The TRS problem has plagued me from about the 60,000 mile point. We replaced the TRS 4 times and the transmission was replaced by the dealer. It seemed to fix the problem, we loaned the car to some friends who were down on their luck. The problem resurfaced with a vengeance. So we took the car back and started to look closely at the problem. They neglected to change the oil for 7000 miles, it was two quarts low and the antifreeze reservoir was dry. I thought it was toast. But I hoped to get it working somewhat so I could sell it at a lose.

I did a couple of oil changes to get rid of the sludge in the engine, flushed the cooling system and replaced the Dex cool with fresh conventional green antifreeze and it seemed to be driving better. The car was running cooler and the transmission problems seemed to lessen. We took a look at were the TRS is located, in the direct flow from the radiator fan. So I created a barrier from that flow with a piece of thermopan ductwork insulation.(thermopan is cardboard faced with reflective material on each side), this barrier is just long enough to cover the TRS region and the front face of the transmission filter. Do not cover the TRS from above let the air circulate around it but you must protect it from the direct blast of the radiator fan. I used tie raps to fasted this barrier to the lower radiator hose.

I believe the root cause of the TRS problem is poor design and placement of the TRS and cooling system. I believe the radiator is marginally sized for this car. Any degradation to its function causes it to work harder to keep the engine at operating temperature. (The electric fan runs longer blasting the TRS with a blow torch of heat.) So at 60,000 miles, the Dex cool is breaking down, the radiator is getting clogged internally, dust, grease and bugs are obstructing the radiator flow and the condenser is getting flattened by road debris. All of this is obstructing flow and heat transfer from the radiator.

PS I replaced the TRS myself the last two times, and I kept them. I put one of the old ones back in and it is still driving fine.

Just good maintenance and a couple of dollars for a heat shield and I am back on the road reliably.
:lol:
MikeFKlegin, do you have any pics of your TRS heat shield? I took your advice, and used a very thin sheet of aluminum to shield my TRS from the exhaust fan. But, the CEL popped on just like it always does.
 

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2007 Suzuki Forenza Transmission Range Sensor

Just had my TRS replaced for 2nd time in 5 months. I replaced it back in Sept 2012 and again Feb 2013. About 69,000 miles. My question is, why doesn't this thing last? Will I have to continue to replace it? Does something that I am doing or not doing causing it to need to be replaced so often. I am very upset with Suzuki not doing a recall for this problem they know exist. Please give me some ideas. I really would love for my car to last longer but I really can't afford to continue to replace this part every 6 months. I don't have the money and I don't know how or have anyone that can do it for me except the dealership and you know they are overcharging me...help..:mad:
 

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hi mselgin1 welcome to the forum!! there is a post right above yours thats has some ideas on how to prolong the life of the TRS. also if you read through the thread from the beginning there are instructions on how to install the trs yourself. that would certainly save you a few dollars
 

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Thanks so much for the info. I don't know anything about working on cars. And I dont have anyone to work on my car for me. But I appreciate the info anyway. :)
 

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Transmission range sensor

I have a question for my 2007 suzuki forenza,
ive been having problems with my transmission range sensor as well, i was wondering if i were to buy the part and have it installed correctly. would i need to take it to get the cars computer re-programmed to the new part? or would it automaticaly read since its the direct fit???
 

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weather you do it yourself or have it done the car will automatically know the part is there. the problem that occurs sometimes is that the part is seated just a bit off and needs to be moved a little. this is due to the screw holes in the part, theyre not round but elongated to leave room for movement. probably the only way to be sure its done exactly right is to take the car to the dealer. theyre probably the only people that have the "special tool" for instillation. the dealer charges a lot of money to do the job so most people choose to do it themselves. i havent had to change mine yet but i suppose if you could mark the placement of the part on the transmission somehow (whiteout maybe) you might have a better chance of getting it right the first time.
 
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