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So Mr. Lube quoted $60 each to change the differential and transfer case oils, and $110 for the transmission, which is just plain silly, since the books say all you have to do is remove the fill plug, remove the drain plug, goop up the drain plug with some Suzuki part number or equivalent, reinstall the drain plug, fill to the bottom of the fill hole, and install the fill plug.

Two questions, however: Does anyone know a more generic description of whatever sealant is required for this, that I might be able to locate at NAPA or Canadian Tire? And do I need a special socket to grab the plugs? It looks like a square recess, which I didn't actually think to try just fitting the 3/8" ratchet into *without* a socket---but everything else on the car is metric, so maybe I need to buy a special bit for those?

(Also, I'll have to buy a decent catch pan, and I saw a neat-looking funnel with a long flexible neck---any other tricks to make the job less messy for those of us without a full mechanics pit and/or car lift?) Alternately, do any of the near-Vancouver folks know anyone who will do all four in one go for some reasonable labour cost, to save me the bother and the risk of getting it wrong and spilling a bunch of oil down the side of the street...?
 

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Totally ridiculous. I just did this, front and back - forgot the size of the socket, but I didn't have to get any special tool, it was one of the sockets in the regular set. Just removed the drain plug and fill plug, drained into a tub, put back the drain plug (with no goop or sealant) filled the fill plug until it ran out of the fill plug. Closed up fill plug. Done. And remember, GL5
 

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You can use Permatex Ultragrey or teflon thread seal tape from any plumbing supply or hardware store - the required tool is a 10mm square drive, which is surprisingly difficult to locate, I got mine on eBay, you can also check your closest Ford dealership, as it's used on Fords.

Please avoid the use of a 3/8 sq drive ratchet, it will work in a pinch, but it damages the plug recess especially if the plug is tight - not only is the 3/8 square drive small, but it has rounded corners, making it very likely to slip.

Also get yourself a cheap gear lube pump - around $5, screws directly onto the top of the bottle, and makes filling the transmission & transfer case so much easier - there really is no room in the tunnel for your long necked funnel, etc.

It's very important that you remove the fill plug first - that way, if you find it doesn't budge, you're not left with a vehicle minus oil and unuseable.

Please make sure you get the correct weight & grade of oil - the transmission takes a GL-4 (which may be difficult to locate), the transfer case & differentials take a GL-5. Put the wrong oil in the wrong place and you will have problems - if you can't locate a GL-4 oil for the transmission, you can use a GL-5, provided it is "yellow metal friendly" or safe for use with brass & bronze components.

You may think Mr. Lube's prices are unreasonable, but he has to cater for overheads, including insurance for the little things that can go wrong, as mentioned in the preceeding paragraph.
 

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I quit using funnels for jobs like this many moons ago..

I use a pressure vessel (garden spray type), remove the nozzle and the gear oil will flow easy, no mess... just squeeze the trigger..

A 3/8" Johnson bar or ratchet should fit those plugs, any sealer will work to stop weeping, Teflon tape works well, Philip

EDit: Heed fordem advice, I have never experienced issued using 3/8", but if too loose or plug too tight may cause problems..
 

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Definitely excellent advice to remove filler plug first.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cool, thanks guys. Everything I'd read said to remove the filler plug first, but that's an awesome justification for why that's important. Also, the gear oil pump sounds like very much a good idea, so will try to find one of those.

One day when I make my millions I'll build me a garage with a mechanics pit, but in the meantime, one makes do with a shade-tree :)
 

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This is the one I have - and you can find it at Amazon (that's where I got the picture), I picked mine up at the local Plews dealer, most parts stores will have something similar.

 

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Great ideas (and the photos) aquanaut20 and fordem!

Getting the lube into the fill holes (and nowhere else) is the toughest part of the job.
 

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If you look again at Fordem's photo, this is also a very easy DIY thing - you can take any household item that uses a similar plunger style delivery, and just heat a length of similar diameter plastic tubing on to the spout for the same type of delivery as the photo.
 

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@autotune
You say your way is easy...
But did you have to remove the engine to do it?;)

Oh!
Now I get it!:rolleyes:
It is like when "Nahm" Abrams removes the safety guards on the table sawr
while filming the New Yankee Workshop. It makes it easier for the audience
to see what is going on!
 

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yes ( i lie)
hood off
and engine out. (got something against 4 hr labor pulling motor, HEHEHEHEHE)
but as you see its not too hard,to do standing , beats crawling .
and worse pumping cold fluid,up hill..

btw you can not fill tranny from end of extension housing

but with extension housing off, this will work for a fill up. with 2 inch body lift.

 

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What is the trick for the rear diff?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Remove the body? autotune would probably say that's the easy way to do things :p

We should start up "autotune facts", sorta like "Chuck Norris facts".
 

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Actually you could remove rear carpet, remove one of the drain plugs in the rear pan and drop the hose through that toward filler plug in rear. But maybe gas tank would get in the way.
 

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Either way, you would still have to crawl under twice, one to start , then again to button up..

My way, once,

Fluid in container pre pressurized,
then under we go, remove plugs, drain, install drain plug, fill (squeeze trigger), install fill plug...
no mess no fuss....
 

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aqua's way is the best !!! of all !!, my posts are just for with out spray tank.
i have 3 of those thanks, 1 for brakes and other for fluids,

jack up the rear of the body, No not axle.
the body raises.
heat bottle in microwave oven (or hot pan of water)
the insert squeeze bottle nipple in the fill hole ( so easy not that body is raised)
and squirt, (no pumping needed )

the hand pump (in bottle ) really sucks and in cold , torture.
 

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bex ill have to add a menu to that page
here is a quote off my page. Tuneups
Gear Lube trick , Tranny:
I cheat and fill my 5sp this way. (heat it first) $3.50 /qt and change often.

Hints, Axles and gear boxes:
I jack up the rear bumper , not axle, and squirt in the hot lube, the easy way. (no hand pump) into the rear axle fill hole. Front is far more easy.
You can not fill the 5sp, via the shifter extension house (in place). "FSM even warns you in later years, what a mess...."
The filler plugs will need heat to loosen the factory caulk, and the filler needs to come of first , never the drain first.
The Transfer case has 2 plugs and is easy to lay hands on , keep car level, Pull the level check plug FIRST. Use heat.
 
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