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Discussion Starter #1
i know there may be many qnswers to my question but maybe someone has had these symptoms before. tracker starts cold, you drive it 2 miles and shut it off. it tries to start but shuts off just after it fires then it just cranks and fires on occasions. eventually it started and i drove home, shut it off and it refused to start with the same symptoms mentioned before but now it doesn't start unless it's cold.
though it might be a fuel filter so i replaced it an it's doing the same thing. thought ignition coil break down but seems it would just quit when warmed up.
disconneced the fuel pump with the engine running and it died in just one second.
am i wrong that the coils are built into the spark plug wire ends. looked but couldn't find one on diagram.
ECU???????
any thoughts from those that know.
thx
bob
 

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As your Tracker is a 1996, you will be OBD2 and your ECU will be 'better' at picking up sensor faults, etc. So my first question would be: is your check engine light on with the key on and off when you start or crank the car? Do you have an OBD2 scanner (as if so, you could plug it in when the car will not start, to see if the ECU is picking something up). When the car doesn't start, have you pulled the plugs to see if the engine is flooding? I don't believe that you have coil on plug, but I'm fairly sure that in 96, the ignition coil is now part of the distributor. In any event, when it does not start after having driven it, try flooring the gas pedal when you try to start. If this helps, then the car is flooding at start up, as flooring the gas pedal prevents gas delivery. Otherwise, try depressing the gas pedal about 10% to see if that helps - that adds additional air at start up.
You may also want to advise what cold idle is, warm idle, how the car runs, any hesitation/bogging, etc. Also whether you have checked, when the car doesn't start, to see if the EGR is in the forward position which would also prevent an easy start.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ce light is on with key on and goes out when running. fast idle is 1300 and drops to 6-700 when warm. no scanner. have not pulled the plugs. i'll try the gas pedal as described.
don't know how to check the egr position.
when running the vehicle runs normal.
thanks for the reply.
 

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Normal is kind of a relative term, and as we can't see the car, giving as many details as possible is helpful. For example, you may feel that 600 rpm warm idle is 'normal', but it really isn't, as factory spec on the car is 800 rpm. When you are starting the car from cold, starting is assisted by extra air and fuel from mechanical valves and the ECU, to get the car started (and warmed up) more easily. This can hide various problems that only show up when the car is warm. You should (always) first confirm that the car is timed properly (engine timing, which a compression test on the engine will show you) as well as tuned properly, with the plugs gapped at .028" and not just used out of the box. Spark plug tips, when the car won't start, can also help in diagnosis.
If you know how to locate the EGR valve, when the car is off, the valve should be in the rearward position. If you put your finger carefully at the rear of the valve, you can push it forward toward the radiator. When you let go, the valve should snap back strongly. If it sticks in the forward position, it will prevent the car from starting. This valve and circuit can be cleaned with carb cleaner. There are tons of posts on this on the forum - maybe some photos as well - that show how to do this. Here is a good one:
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-tracker/46194-cleaned-my-egr-valve-pics.html
If you stand at the right side of the engine (like in right hand drive) the EGR is right in front of you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I pulled the egr about 300 miles ago, all was clean and a mechanic also checked function, now that doesn't insure it hasn't gone haywire. will wait till ice storm leaves and check compression and egr function.

good advise
thx
 

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Discussion Starter #6
update. egr valve when clicked cold does nothing, removing vacume hose does nothing. clicking it when warm the engine slows bu keeps running.


did find out if you crank it warm it and keep cranking it won't start but if you hit the key real quick and turn it off and hit it again it will start.
 

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Have you pulled your spark plugs and looked at the tips of them? From your description of the key trick, it would sound like a fuel pressure issue. Normally, if you turn the key on and off 3 times, you are increasing fuel pressure. Did you ever try the gas pedal trick in post 2?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
tried the pedal trick with no results. agree with fuel delivery,talked o a wellrespected mechanic toda, e sai he oul start by looking at the fuel delivery system, inparticular the fuel pump.

there has to be a connectio soewhere to put a pressure gauge to test he pump.
 

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... there has to be a connectio soewhere to put a pressure gauge to test he pump.
The location used in the manuals is the banjo bolt on the input to the fuel filter. (Behind the right wheel in front of the fuel tank.) It has a removable plug that an adapter fits into. This is effectively the output of the fuel pump and gets the full pressure, but doesn't test any restrictions forward of that point. Most people rig up a test point at the fuel rail.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
you must be referring to the bleed bolt at the end of the inlet banjo, saw it when I changed the filter.
did notice when I changed the filter that there was a lot less pressure than I expected when I cracked the banjo bolt. it dribbled out unlike the squirt I got from my Toyota. that may be because I disconnected the battery and opened the gas cap, unlike the Toyota was done on the side of the road in Podunk Arizona and the time wasn't my choosing.

I find it strange the vehicle isn't throwing a code or a check engine light..
 

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In another vehicle I had a collapsing filter sock at the end of the fuel pump and it acted a lot like you describe. Cold was fine but after it ran for awhile it would continue to collapse until it choked off the fuel flow. If it's not too bad for you to drop the tank then it would be something to consider.
 

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I find it strange the vehicle isn't throwing a code or a check engine light..
The ECU only throws codes for sensors that it is electronically attached to, and not mechanical issues. Fuel pressure would be considered mechanical.
 
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