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Can anyone show me a design on how to mount a tow hitch to the front frame members on my 88 Suzuki?
 

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A couple of options...
If you are going to an aftermarket bumper, just weld the mounts to the bumper. Just make sure you mount the bumper to more than just the front bolt holes on the frame...
Stock mounts:

Also use the upper front body mounts:


Or you can use a set of CJ Tow Shackles and just hook the tow bar up to those.




I have towed both ways and prefer the tow shackles.
Currie Enterprises CJ Axle Parts
 

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Discussion Starter #3
A couple of options...
If you are going to an aftermarket bumper, just weld the mounts to the bumper. Just make sure you mount the bumper to more than just the front bolt holes on the frame...
Stock mounts:

Also use the upper front body mounts:


Or you can use a set of CJ Tow Shackles and just hook the tow bar up to those.




I have towed both ways and prefer the tow shackles.
Currie Enterprises CJ Axle Parts
Thanks Billjohn
I want to use the CJ Tow Shackles, they are good and simple. The CJ tow shackle is 4 1/4 inches and my stock shackles are 2 3/4 inches long. They are 1 1/2 inches longer than the stock Samauri shackles but it looks like there is enough material there to drill new holes. I don't want to raise my samuari.
Your thoughts Billjohn?
 

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Thanks Billjohn
I want to use the CJ Tow Shackles, they are good and simple. The CJ tow shackle is 4 1/4 inches and my stock shackles are 2 3/4 inches long. They are 1 1/2 inches longer than the stock Samauri shackles but it looks like there is enough material there to drill new holes. I don't want to raise my samuari.
Your thoughts Billjohn?
The shackles will only lift the vehicle 3/4" (half the difference). They are MUCH stronger than the stock stamped shackles. Replacing the rear shackles with an aftermarket set will strengthen the back and level out the ride. I doubt you will notice a 3/4" height difference, but it will allow you to move up to a 29" tire without any problems. It seems to be a win/win situation. But only you know how you want to build your rig.

The way the Curry shackles are designed, the force pulls equally on both bolts, I think redrilling holes may compromise the design. But if you have access to materials and cutting tools you may be able to duplicate the design at a shorter height if you leave out the strengthening bolt. Remember that you will need to leave enough room for the tow bar to fit in there.

Food for thought.
 

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AWESOME i've been on this forum for a while now and have been looking at different ways to tow my sammy and i don't know how i've missed this till now this is perfect cause i have two zuks i can put the shackles on both and interchange them with out having to bolt up two different mounting points thanks guys this is great. and also for the light issueharbor freight sells like magnetic lights that you can easily mount and just plug into your hitch light kit on your tow vehicle just an idea
 

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Do the CJ bushings in the Currie kit fit the Samurai stock leaf springs or do the Samurai bushings need to be use?

With the Harbor Freight tow bar on sale right now for $69.99 and the Currie kit for $80, this seems like a very good way to have a tow bar with the stock springs and bumper, and also get 3/4" of lift.
 

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You could use either, it all depends on what kind of ride you are looking for. OEM are softer but will wear faster, Aftermarket (poly) are harder and will stand up to time and abuse. It really doesn't matter where the tow shackles are concerned. The poly bushings may take a slightly longer bolt, but new bolts are going to be longer anyways... Choose some grade 8 bolts with nylock nuts and you are good to go.
 

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Stock shackles are worthless...
If ever given the chance to upgrade to an aftermarket (stronger) shackle - do it! So go aftermarket for this one...
I agree. Just trying to figure out which bushing kit to get from LROR, the ones for the OEM shackles or for the aftermarket shackles, when using the Currie tow bar shackle kit.
 

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Thanks.
I don't have to remove the drive shaft anymore. Both rigs have disconnects (of a sort). The street rig (Stalker) has a rear driveshaft disconnect lever inside between the front seats.
Install Article


And the trail rig (the white one) has locking hubs at all four wheels. Stock in front and Warn in back on a full floating axle.
 

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Biljohn;

Is there a mounting kit with the rear disconnect or do you have to provide your own bolts, lock washers, ect ?
The pix you posted only shows the shifter/gear.
How did you center the shifter to give clearance for the throw ?
Do you need to shorten the driveshaft on an unaltered Sami ?
Did you try to use it on your trail Sami as a pivot around trail obstruction ?
(giving you isolated front wheel drive in lo range ?)
Looking more like a promising plan.
Thanx
 

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Is there a mounting kit with the rear disconnect or do you have to provide your own bolts, lock washers, ect ?
The kit came with everything you need except for the tools with which to do it.

The pix you posted only shows the shifter/gear.
How did you center the shifter to give clearance for the throw ?

The t-case bracket bolts to the old e-brake mounting points left over from an earlier model (a 410 carryover). This holds the shifter in place. Without actually mounting the shifter bar (handle), you can move the section that it mounts to while holding the bar next to it. This will let you point to the floor with the bar and figure out approximately where it will need to go through the floor. I had to move the 'slot' over a little to center it on the available floor space. You will notice the bar is straight when it comes out of the package, but I made a couple of bends to move the handle over to the center of my working area. Make your initial cuts, install the bar and then trim as needed.

Check out the Install Article, lots of pix there.

Do you need to shorten the driveshaft on an unaltered Sami ?
The new transfer case flange is 1” longer that the stock flange. If the vehicle has already been lifted and is running a 1” driveshaft spacer, just remove the spacer. If the vehicle is running a stock rear drive shaft with no spacer, the driveshaft must be shortened 1”.

Did you try to use it on your trail Sami as a pivot around trail obstruction ?
(giving you isolated front wheel drive in lo range ?)

There were guys out there doing exactly that, but I already had a disconnect solution on the trail rig and needed to use this one for the street rig so I could tow it behind the motorhome. If you do try to do front 'digs' with the rear disconnected, be careful. Remember that the zook t-case isn't bulletproof and a front stock driveshaft isn't either... Pack spares...

This is an upgrade that should be on all zooks that get towed!
 

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Very enlightening Biljohn
Thanx
You warned of difficulties using the 'Disconnect' to 'dig'
with the front wheels.
Can you list some of the problems.
Sorry for hijacking the thread.
Hope others enjoy it though.
Thanx
arlo
 
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