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Discussion Starter #1
I am working on a 1993 Suzuki Sidekick JX 4-door with a 1.6 - 16 valve engine and manual transmission. When I got this it did not run. I repaired the wallowed out crankshaft key slot with loctite products and a new timing drive gear from LROR. Setting up the timing, I;
1) Aligned camshaft gear timing mark “E” at 12:00 position with cylinder 4 at TDC as determined by cam lobes being at the heel of the cam.
2) Adjusted the valves.
3) Set #1 cylinder to TDC as determined by cam lobes being at the heel of the cam and the crankshaft timing mark at 6 degrees BTDC.
3) Place the distributer into the housing so the rotor is aligned with the number 1 location of the distributor cap, the rotor points to the right side of the distributor adjustment slot.
The engine runs but the crankshaft timing mark, with the advance lock jumper shunt in place, when viewed with a timing light is approximately two inches advanced or at 10:00. The timing does not change with the shunt removed. Also jumping between pins 2 and 3 does not bring up the CEL codes.
I tried to move the distributor one tooth in either direction with no success.
Once the engine heats up, the timing mark moves to 1 inch (11:00) advanced position with the distributor rotated to the extreme. The timing light pickup is placed on cylinder 1. Placing the timing light on other cylinders does not produce a visible timing mark while running.
I placed #1 at TDC using a dial indicator, the crankshaft timing mark is spot on. The distributor rotor points exactly at the #1 ignition cap tower. The engine runs (poorly) and the timing way off.
I know that, mechanically the timing marks and belt is setup properly. The engine runs.
I tried the distributor in all three rotor positions, only 1 position works and fires the engine.
I even replaced the electrolytic capacitors in the ECU and tested for ground continuity.
What am I missing? I am leaning toward a bad ECU because jumping the Advance Freeze does nothing, nor does trying to retrieve the CEL codes.
Who's got a ECU for a '93 1.6 - 16 valve w/manual trans?
 

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Normally, if your ECU is an issue, the engine will not start at all. You advise that you’ve already changed the caps, so let’s assume that the ECU is not the problem.
You advise that the engine had the sheared keyway. When putting all back together, confirm that you torqued the 17mm center bolt to 94 ft/lbs. As the engine has this history, I’d probably do a compression test, to verify that the repair has held up, and that the valve timing is correct.
Your valves should be gapped at .006”, (cold engine) having aligned the crankshaft pulley to 0 on the timing belt cover, with #1 firing on the distributor, and doing 1,2,5 and 7 first, rotating the crank 360º and doing 3,4,6,8.
Confirm that when you are attempting to bypass ECU input to ignition timing, that you are jumping the black to blue/red wired pins in the diagnostic connector. Also confirm that the distributor is set to rotate counterclockwise (16v).
It appears that your rotor replacement is one of the Chinese knockoffs - the OEM rotor will only install in one position. With the knockoffs, it is the longest ‘leg’ of the rotor that would point to #1, when setting up the timing.
Is your check engine light on with the key in the on position, and then off once the engine is running?? When trying to get codes, confirm that you are jumping the black to blue/yellow wired pin in the diagnostic connector. If you cannot get codes, and your CEL is on with the engine running, it is probably because the ‘service engine soon’ function has tripped. A video here, of where it’s located (note that earlier engines will have this switch directly under the steering wheel):
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yep all that stuff is correct with the exception that I had the rotor in the wrong position. Placing the rotor in the correct position, it doesn't run.
There is a FORCE vehicle security system installed and some funky wiring. There is a small momentary switch hidden under the dash that may disable the ignition. I will remove the alarm system and return wiring to OE at first opportunity. I'll report back upon completion of this task.
Thank you for your assistance, greatly appreciated.
 

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What do you mean, having the rotor in the wrong position? On the 16v engine, your rotor should be pointing to the #1 plug, at about 1:00 (s a bit to the right of the distributor mount. What are your compression results? Anyway, aftermarket security systems and wiring can present a problem, and it’s best to remove them and put all circuits back to factory. But I would suspect a security system would stop the engine from running altogether, rather than making it run poorly.
 

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You should revisit the base timing (cams/crank), time the CAM to #4 compression, then #1 for the ignition timing...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The
What do you mean, having the rotor in the wrong position? On the 16v engine, your rotor should be pointing to the #1 plug, at about 1:00 (s a bit to the right of the distributor mount. What are your compression results? Anyway, aftermarket security systems and wiring can present a problem, and it’s best to remove them and put all circuits back to factory. But I would suspect a security system would stop the engine from running altogether, rather than making it run poorly.
top of the distributor shaft it triangular. My rotor that came with the vehicle can go on in three positions, each 120 degrees offset. The engine ran for me in one position. reviewing the timing page, I was instructed to place the rotor in a position other than the one in which the engine ran, with the rotor tip opposite the longest side of the distributor shaft triangular end. I relocated the rotor, reset the distributor so the rotor is point to #1 tower of distributor cap, at 1:00. The engine did not start. I looked under the dash and found a concealed small red momentary switch going to an aftermarket alarm. I will remove the alarm, repair any wiring that has been molested and try again.
I agree with you that the engine shouldn't run, albeit poorly, due to the alarm but it did.
 

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If the engine will start with the rotor in a specific position, there is nothing wrong with the ECM or circuit..

The specific issue you report indicates an issue with the timing, either mechanical or electrical...
 

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It appears that you are saying that the ignition timing is 180º off of where the FSM says it should be. I would wonder, then, if your valve timing isn’t also 180º off. A compression test will verify your valve timing, but just generally, your cam E mark is at 12:00, the cam key is at 6:00 and the crank key is at 12:00, with cylinder #4 in the firing position. The Chinese knock off rotors tend to present a problem, but normally, of the 3 connections in the rotor that are 120º from each other, two of them will be the same length, and one of them will be very slightly longer. It is the longer one that you are aligning to the #1 cylinder wire, at 1:00, with cylinder #1 in the firing position, when you do the ignition timing. And confirm that your distributor wires are set up to go counterclockwise (so #2 wire will be at about 11:00, #3 at about 8:00, etc.)
 
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