Suzuki Forums banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
553 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I decided this spring to park the XL7 until I could get the tensioner replaced. I've slowly been acquiring parts for the job, and decided after work that it's time to get into it. So far I have radiator drained and the intake manifold removed. It's going to take a while to get everything cleaned up before I pull the covers off (it's been seeping oil for a while now). Anyhoo, I'll try to take pictures along the way. Tonight was just an hour after work of tinkering to de-stress. I figure it I get a little done every day or so I should have it going again before we get too much snow. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
Frankly, I'm convinced at this point it would be far less hassle to just yank the motor and do that job on a stand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Well, if you've got the intake removed you're 70% there. The rest is pretty easy peasy (aside from the crank pulley). Once you are that far you might as well clean the oil baffle for the pvc valve, clean the passages on the egr valve, change the water pump, loosen up and practice removing the connectors for the O2 sensors (maybe even replace them) check the bearings on the accessory belt tensioner, and try to deal with the torx bolt on the alternator. You know, all the stuff that's gunna crap out just after you get it back together! o_O
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
553 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I made some more progress today before it got too hot: I got lots of oily gunk removed, the radiator/fan/shroud is out, most of the accessories on the front of the engine are off and the valve covers have been removed. So far the inside of the covers and the tops of the heads look like this motor has seen much better service than the Bazuki got before I purchased them. Derrick, that damn Torx bolt is still in it's original position. I hit it off and on about 10 times so far with my 3/8" impact gun and it's not budging. REALLY hoping to get that busted loose at some point during this process! All the other stuff was already on the list except the O2 sensors. I've had pretty good luck getting in there (already replace the upstream on this rig a couple years ago). For the crank pulley bolt, I used the starter trick ;).
As for removing the engine to do the job...IF I have to I will. But I've played that game already 3 or 4 times this past year on other Zuk's and I'm not ready to go there yet. Besides, if the engine's out then you might as well pull the pan, and then you might as well go ahead and check the bearings and....pretty soon you've spent 3 years rounding up parts from all corners of the globe to rebuild the entire engine. (See the Bazuki thread!).
Anyhoo, it was a fairly relaxing day just cleaning and removing parts. Once I have the front cover off then the timing and water pump should go fairly quickly as I already have all the parts required. Now...if I can avoid busting any bolts during the rest of the removal process.....

OH..pics: Click here for link to google photos album
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
I prefer Pic Number 1. I'd rather be sailing!
 

·
Registered
99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
Joined
·
11,101 Posts
I prefer Pic Number 1. I'd rather be sailing!
Yes!, I too prefer to be sailing.. Spent may hrs training sailors with the CFSA..Pacific..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
553 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've spent almost every weekend this summer up at the lake, so wrenching on this has been more of an after work for a little bit each evening sort of thing. If you noticed in that pic the smoke last weekend was very thick. The fires on the east side of Flathead are still burning and the wind was straight out of the east. Decent sailing, but by the end of the day our sinuses were burning pretty bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
553 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Small update: all the major parts are back on the engine. I still have yet to break that dang alternator bolt loose, so until that happens I'm at a stand-still on the front. I need to pick up new belts and radiator hoses too. Once I have the alternator adjustable again I'll finish it up and we can get back to driving this one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
Long breaker bar, and/or cheater stick...I've seen way too many times that big impacts won't budge a bolt that the steady torque of a breaker bar pops with ease. If there's any movement between the impact anvil and whatever the part is attached to, such as an engine block rocking in it's mounts, it's absorbing the force of the impacts - same reason why "regular" extensions aren't supposed to be used on impact guns.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,161 Posts
same reason why "regular" extensions aren't supposed to be used on impact guns.
Because the chrome vanadium will "shatter"?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
553 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yea, I've tried the big breaker bar, and my impact gun, and no movement either way. I'm afraid if I pull any harder on the breaker bar that the torx splines are just gonna strip out. I'm gonna pull the wheel off and see if there's any way to reach the actual threads on the back side, and maybe I can get a little penetrating oil in there from the that side. If that doesn't work I'm almost to the point of just saying screw it and pry the new belt on and go with it.
Anyhoo, I remembered about 11pm last night that I forgot to put the PCV valve and hose back in, so this morning I made sure to do that. Sure would have been easier if I'd remembered to do that BEFORE putting the rear section of the manifold on! I'll pick up the new rubber parts tomorrow, and I also need to get a couple gallons of antifreeze. Hopefully I'll be driving it again before the snow flies!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
553 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Small update: I got the bolt JUST loose enough that I can move the alternator back and forth and adjust the belt before the head stripped out. Napa had the new belts I needed, but the radiator hoses won't be in until tomorrow. So, small progress this evening. I did clean the fins out on the radiator and have it ready to go back in. Tomorrow I'll grab the hoses before I come home and hopefully have it back in place by tomorrow evening. Then it's time to change the oil, put fresh coolant in and see if she'll fire back up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
553 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Status as of last week: new hoses are on hand, but we decided to get one last weekend of sailing in before haul-out next Saturday. .
Car Motor vehicle Vehicle Hood Automotive air manifold
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
553 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's all back together, and even started right up! :) Of course a couple of lifters had leaked down so it was awfully noisy for about 5 minutes until they finally filled back up. But, once they where full of oil again the motor quieted down and purrs. I did forget to plug the EGR valve back in so it popped a code for that until I got it plugged back in. Anyhoo, short trip shows no external leaks, but we'll give it a few warm/cool cycles before declaring victory. Right now, all indications are that it's back in business. For future reference, the timing chain tensioner was replaced at 188K miles. All other components of the timing system where in excellent condition and showed only the smallest amount of wear. Also replaced while in there: water pump, all fluids, engine oil and air filters, radiator hoses, valve cover gaskets/seals, intake system gaskets/seals for all items that were removed/separated, and the oil pump chain was adjusted. I did not remove the fuel injectors from the intake or fuel rail so no need to replace the o-rings. Also note that the harmonic balancer seal is NOT part of the 'full' engine gasket set, and typically the spark plug hole o-rings seem to be excluded as well.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top