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Discussion Starter #41
Well, I've finally gotten the engine out. Bolts that haven't moved in 20 years conspired with the really cramped quarters in the engine bay (as well as just life getting in the way), so it took way longer than I had intended. Anyway, it's finally out. I ended up dropping the front differential to get better access to the torque converter bolts. They were fun. o_O

Anyway, I noted that due to the copious timing chain related oil leaks, at least one of the the mount bushings on the front axle have been soaked in oil for quite some time. I'd like to replace them when I reassemble everything, but I'm having a hard time finding replacements. I've only been able to find one set of replacements, and I want to make sure they're the right parts.

What I have found are parts made by Febest, part numbers SZAB-007 (the puck for the rear mount point, OEM 27561-60A01), SZAB-042 (the bushing for the driver side mount, OEM 27550-52D00), and SZAB-010 (the bushing for the passenger side mount, OEM 27550-60A00). I've found them at a very good price on Amazon, but how is the quality from this supplier?
 

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I bought sway bar links from that supplier last year and they were correct for the application. From what I can tell the quality seemed just fine too.
 

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I would avoid anything sold by Febest, they will fit & work, but don't expect to get more than a year or two out of them.
 

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I have all of the Suzuki part numbers for the items pictured if you need. With them you can source OE replacements.

 

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Discussion Starter #47
As noted above, I have the engine out and have begun the process of cleaning up the oil and crud before pulling off the timing cover. That process is a lot easier with the engine on a stand! I had left the power steering pump and alternator attached when pulling the engine, so I got those pulled off last night. The last thing I was going to do before calling it quits for the evening was pulling the harmonic balancer / crank pulley. :eek:

Having pulled the balancer on other cars before, I knew the bolt would be pretty tight, but figured it would be no big deal with an impact wrench. Can't be THAT tight, right? I hit it with my impact last night for ten minutes or so, and it didn't budge. I soaked it down with Liquid Wrench and called it a night. I hope it will be more cooperative with a good soak in penetrating oil, but frankly since every bolt on this thing has fought me, I'm not holding my breath. My impact is an old Craftsman, supposedly with a 340 ft-lb output, but honestly it's 30 years old and could use a rebuild. (A rebuild I'd be glad to give it if I could even find parts for it, but they don't seem to be available anymore.) It wouldn't surprise me if the thing is doing more like 250 ft-lbs, which I'd hope would be enough, but it clearly wasn't enough last night. I may be looking at a new impact for Christmas, I guess.

Anyway, any recommendations on how to get a reluctant crank pulley bolt loose with the engine on a stand? I'd have used the "kick the starter over with a breaker bar attached" trick before pulling the engine, but the timing chain sounded bad enough I wanted to avoid starting the engine at all costs. With most bolts I'd try caressing it with a hammer to loosen it up...but that would be a bad idea on the crankshaft. For that matter, I'd rather not lay on it with an impact wrench for too long.
 

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You may need what I have. A 3/4" drive Mack-Daddy pneumatic impact gun with 150 PSI air behind it. 😉
 

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lock crank at flywheel end (i actually take flywheel or flexi plate off and bolt a lump of steel between the crank and bell housing) and a 3/4" drive socket, breaker bar and a 4' length of pipe. They are tight.

You will need a couple of people to help as you can tip the stand over very easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Thanks 2013GV. That's the direction I was headed. Fortunately my stand is more stable than many I've seen - the base is U-shaped instead of T-shaped. With that said, it's pretty tall so I'll definitely be careful of tipping!

Obviously the pic is from before I took off the PS pump, alternator, and the water pump pulley. It clearly had a bad oil leak for a long time. :( I have a lot of cleaning to do.
95006
 

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before you remove the crank pulley, spray a good soap based degreaser on, paint brush to work it in, block holes as required and hose off with a running garden hose.
 

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To help prevent getting water / debris in the engine from the (then) open area where the pulley resides. ;)

Also, I'd 'power wash' that whole engine if it were mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Yep, there will be a lot of cleaning going on. I forgot that the balancer goes into the seal on the timing chain cover. I'm glad you folks brought that up. Granted, the oil pan's already off and the timing chain cover is coming off, too...but no reason to let the crud get in there in the first place.
 

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refit pan with 4 or 5 bolts and wash. just make sure you don't upend it so any water if it gets in the pan to block join will stay in the pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
That makes sense - thank you both. I ended up taking the front axle loose and removing the steering rack so I could get the upper oil pan out. I needed the room to be able to get an impact on the torque converter bolts. I'll put the pans back on temporarily for washing.
 

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you removed the upper pan with the bearings ? make sure its scrupulously clean and use assembly lube or fresh clean oil on the bearings when reassembling. DO NOT remove the bearings from the pan, they take a "set" and can wear rapidly if disturbed and replaced.
 
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