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one bit of advice when you do get the front cover off, take plenty of pictures, check, check and check again the timing marks, one tooth out and turning it by hand is enough to bend a valve. Don't turn anything once you have the chains off either.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I planned on the pictures and at least quadruple checking. I didn't realize that even just turning it by hand could lead to bent valves. Good to know. Thank you!
 

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FAQ'd. Valve Timing PDF's (two part). It's all in there. ;)

Top two on the list:
 

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Discussion Starter #25
FAQ'd. Valve Timing PDF's (two part). It's all in there. ;)

Top two on the list:
Not sure why, but in your response I just get an explanation of what MediaFire is rather than an image or link.
 

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Not sure why, but in your response I just get an explanation of what MediaFire is rather than an image or link.
Try these...
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Try these...
Now I can see the links. The firewall I'm behind right now is blocking access to MediaFire. I'll be able to get to them later, thank you!
 

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Pull the engine. Especially if you have the time, space and means to do so. Like you I recently bought a 99 GV for cheap and it needed and clutch and had an exhaust leak. The cross over pipe that goes under the trans was cracked so the exhaust was so loud I couldn't hear the timing chain/ tensioner noise. Had I have known I would have pulled the engine as well. I have a 2 post hoist in my shop so clutch/exhaust job was easy. Now i'm a bit sore after bending over the grille and fenders of this thing trying to get to the hard to reach stuff on this engine!
 

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Discussion Starter #29
My wife and I have been working to pull the engine as time allows. As many have commented, WOW space is tight in that engine bay. We've gone slow, labeling everything to make sure we can put it back together properly. We're down to the point where we have three bolts on the bellhousing and the torque converter bolts to remove. I got the lower oil pan removed, but with the front differential and the steering rack in the way, the upper pan doesn't look like it can be taken out.

The torque converter bolts are proving to be a challenge. As I've read elsewhere on this forum, they must have a thread locker on them because I just can't get them to budge. I can't get a breaker bar on them and certainly can't get an impact on them because of the upper oil pan being in the way. I've just about accepted that I'm going to have to drop the steering rack and the front axle so I'll have access to remove the upper oil pan. Then I'd be able to get an impact on the TC bolts (I think). Besides, at that point I could also pull the oil pump pickup and have more clearance for when the engine comes out.

The only other idea I have is maybe i can pull the upper pan bolts, then slide the upper pan forward enough to get some more clearance for an extension with a u-joint so I can get a socket on the TC bolts. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
You mean the reference to making sure there is support under the trans? I failed to mention that but yes, there will be support under the trans before those last bolts come out. (y)

And yes, I've read through the thread. The thread refers to the removal of the torque converter bolts on your donor engine while on a pallet - if I had that kind of room it would be done already. :) If I'm reading it right your GV has a manual, so you didn't have TC bolts to deal with while the engine was in the truck.
 

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No. All about getting access to bell housing bolts and 1/2" drive extensions and over the top of the trans.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Ah, ok. Yeah, I know those last three bolts are gonna be fun. I have an assortment of extensions and u-joints for that very obstacle. Thanks Max!
 

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I just realized that you were the Member that brought this engine repair / pulling to the table several weeks ago! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Yep, that's me. ;) First we had to wait for parts, then some scheduling stuff got in the way, so we really have only worked on it for two or three days (off and on). If it weren't for these converter bolts the engine would be on a stand right now. o_O
 

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Torque Converter bolts.
Yeah! Easy access with the engine out. Have you considered pulling the engine / trans as one? :sneaky:

 

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Do some thread digging. Pulling the engine with the T/C still attached is another option done by one member. Stuffing it all back in the trans is the difficult part as you would need to rotate the engine with T/C combo by hand to engage into the trans and then additionally into the trans oil pump drive tangs. The two long bell-housing retaining studs aid in this alignment action though.
 

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I work on the philosophy of ALWAYS having the t/c in the trans before reassembly. Too easy to bent the input shaft or mash the t/c internals if you try to line stuff up with it bolted to the flexi plate. If you have room and can keep relative alignment, you can split trans and engine with it still attached to the flexi plate.

As for getting the bolts undone, tried a ring spanner and a big hammer? they are loc tited in place and tight!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I may have to go the route of removing it with the TC, then removing the TC once it's out. I'd put the TC back in the trans before the engine went it.

If I had room for the hammer/spanner option, I'd have room for an impact. :)
 

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If I had room for the hammer/spanner option, I'd have room for an impact. :)
ring spammer (closed end wrench in 'murrican" ) are about 8" long, allows the end of it to get below bell housing to give the "open" end of it a smack with a FBH (you should work that one out heheh)
 
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