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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 4x4 2000 Grand Vitara with 116k miles on the 2.5L v6. We bought it (cheap!) knowing the tensioner was failing. It still has decent power, and from the sound of it the chain hasn’t jumped. We bought it and parked it, and the parts are on their way. My intention is to replace all the timing components, the water pump, and the oil pump, as well as replace the tranny filter/strainer and fluid. I’ve read through the excellent write-up on the H25 timing chain here on the forum, along with Max's write up of his H25 engine swap, and looked through the service manual instructions on the procedure. It’s a lot of work, but I’m confident in getting it done. (Not my first rodeo with OHC engines.)

Given that I'll be replacing all the timing components as well as the oil pump and water pump, from the write-ups on this site it looks to me like it would be just as easy (possibly easier) to pull the engine rather than deal with all the space constraints if it stays in the engine bay. The added benefit, of course, is I'll be able to check the rear main seal while I'm at it and replace it if need be. (I'm honestly considering just replacing it while I'm in there.) I have an engine hoist and stand and ample tools/space for the job. Am I right that pulling the engine is the sensible route, or have I missed a caveat?

Thanks in advance for the opinions. I was thrilled to find an active forum for these great vehicles. The voice of experience is always a great thing to have available.
 

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Tough call. But if you want to address inspection and then obtain cleanliness of the oil pump pickup and oil pan internals of probable timing chain system debris...pulling the engine is the way to go. Addressing the hard to reach fasteners and O2 sensor connections is the difficult part. But you have also read all about this challenging situation already, huh. ;)
 

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Ás long as you aren't averse to pulling the motor, I'd say go for it. More work, but way better access once it's out and in the stand.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks folks. Based on what I read it sounded like a “pick your poison” proposal. The benefits of pulling the engine sound like it will be worth it, so unless I find something insurmountable that’s the route I will take. The tale Max shares in his post sounded like pulling the engine will be preferable to the shenanigans with the steering gear (and other obstacles) underneath. I’m awaiting parts, but will try to keep updates flowing here. Have a great week everyone.
 

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I just did this job with two vehicles - first with engine left in, and more recently with the engine out. I did not replace all the timing components in either repair; just the ones recommended by Suzuki in the timing chain TSB. (Don't have the link handy.) Like you, I bought running vehicles cheap, with a chain rattle or some other problem.

In my 2nd case I had to pull the engine; I did the repair while doing an engine swap. In terms of the timing chain repair, there is no comparison. As you can guess, doing this repair with engine in the car is pretty tight. On the flip side, pulling the engine isn't very difficult, if you pay attention to tagging all your nuts and bolts and connectors, and esp if this is not your first rodeo. Second, and I wish I'd done this, it's much easier to replace your sensors and other components with the engine OUT. That is, rather than road testing your car after the repair and THEN deciding you have to replace, say, an EGR valve... Grrrrrrr.

This also gives you a chance to replace other components while you're in there, and to thoroughly clean the engine bay and underbelly from 20 years of road grime. I replaced my rear main seal too. These and other similar repairs are impossible with the engine left in, and its a good time for preventative maintenance. My 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks rallison, this is just the kind of info I was hoping to get. Given I don't really know the maintenance details of our GV I want to be sure I handle anything that could bite us later at once. It made sense to me that I'd be best off pulling the engine but wanted to be sure there weren't any nasty details I was missing in the FSM. Even with 4x4 in play, I still think this is the right route.

Can't wait for the parts to get here!
 

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[I removed my comment b/c Max said I gave erroneous advice. Listen to these guys, sometimes you'll get some really good advice.]
 

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some say to unbolt the front diff and push it forward to get clearance to pull the engine out. I pulled my front diff out completely, which gave me a lot more room to operate when it came to removing the exhaust manifolds
Why pull the diff? And the exhaust manifold need not be removed either to extract the engine NOR are they anyway near the diff. You are suggesting WAY too much extra effort here sprinkled with some apparent erroneous steps. :rolleyes:

2000GV. Read the engine removal posts from ALL of the contributors and of course the Service Manual is my suggestion. Then do what you feel suits your needs and additionally makes sense to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Everyone's experience with operations like this will vary based on any number of variables. My approach is always to get input from as many resources as possible and use what applies to my circumstances. More than once I've started out with a plan based on one person's input and changed course when I realized someone else's situation more closely matched mine. That's the beauty of a forum like this. 😁
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wow there is a lot of data to review on this job. Of course I had to pick a major overhaul for my first task with this beauty. :rolleyes:

There are a couple of different Suzuki sealant part numbers called out in the service manual, which of course I won't be able to get today. I can safely substitute Permatex Ultra Gray for the sealants I will need - correct? Looks like I may very well need two tubes. I hope I don't glue my fingers together. :ROFLMAO:
 

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'Ultra' IS the way to go. ;)

Wow there is a lot of data to review on this job. Of course I had to pick a major overhaul for my first task with this beauty. :rolleyes:

There are a couple of different Suzuki sealant part numbers called out in the service manual, which of course I won't be able to get today. I can safely substitute Permatex Ultra Gray for the sealants I will need - correct? Looks like I may very well need two tubes. I hope I don't glue my fingers together. :ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Since I don't have all my parts yet, I've been reading and re-reading the service manual (as well as other sources) on the engine removal. In the service manual one of the last steps is "install lifting device". What I'm not seeing in the FSM, or on physical inspection of the engine, are any lift points. I had hoped to find factory installed lift hooks on the engine like I've seen before on SBC engines, but I didn't see any. So, where is the best place to attach the hoist? I hope to get a hoist leveler (cheap enough at Harbor Freight) and I already have a lift.
 

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See this thread. Factory lifting eyes exist and a leveler isn't a requirement. ;)

 

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I generated all of those needed links in the FAQ thread, but unfortunately this new format killed all of the old forum link associations. Day five and they are still working on the problem. 😗


If you have any more issues, just let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah, the broken links have made searching a little tricky. :( I appreciate the link! I found the picture I needed, now I know. Thank you!
 

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Are you leaving the trans in-place? IF not, that is a whole different lift attachment scenario. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
DEFINITELY. Only pulling the engine. Am I correct the H25 weighs about 300 pounds? I know my hoist can handle it but want to make sure I buy an appropriate chain. It would really stink to get it halfway out and have the chain snap. :oops:
 

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Somewhere in that 300-400 lb range. I've seen the exact figure but can't recall where.
 
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