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If you do not have official gasket paper, an old cereal box will suffice, have used Kelloges Cornflakes for yrs...
I always took you as being a Wheaties kind of guy.
You know "Breakfast of champions", and all.


Don

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That was the cereal of choice when I was growing up, and the RN supply chain from the homeland was limited...
 

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I still like them.

Don

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Once a man, twice a child??? Lol
 
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1996 Suzuki Sidekick 2 Door Automatic 16 valve
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Discussion Starter #67
Ok guys so I put everything back together and took it for a test drive.. right off the bat my speedometer needle started goin crazy again. I can’t stand that damn thing. I adjusted the cable and I got it to work like before. Aside from that, Idk if I’m trippin or what but I swear I felt a big improvement. The acceleration was a lot quicker and the car seemed a lot more responsive and not as sluggish like before. Felt a lot smoother and I was surprised bc I was so used to it being very slow. It was actually more fun to drive! I told myself “so this is how the sidekick was supposed to drive?” Anyways I go back home, turn off my car and the check engine light comes on 😩. It’s the same p0510 (same code I had before I replaced the speedometer cable) and now I have a p0400. Any ideas? Did I mess something up?
 

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Sounds like your fixing things.
Here is why you need a thermostat & PO400.


Don

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P0400 - the EGR circuit - less flow than what is expected. With the engine warmed up, very carefully (so you don’t burn your fingers) push the diaphragm in the EGR forward (using the metal tabs and not the actual fabric of the diaphragm). Your engine should try to stall. If it doesn’t, it means that the EGR or its circuit is clogged with carbon. You can take the valve off and clean it thoroughly with carb cleaner, and ream out the intake and exhaust ports while the valve is off the car. Before putting the valve back on, start the car for about 1-2 seconds - it should rev very high and blow more carbon out for you. Note that you may have to do this a number of times, particularly if there is 20+ years of carbon in the circuit.
P0510 - TPS. Just thinking, as you’ve been working in the engine, check the connection to the TPS and wiring going to it. In the past, you said this only came on in 4wd. Does this now happen in 2wd??
 

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1996 Suzuki Sidekick 2 Door Automatic 16 valve
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Discussion Starter #70
P0400 - the EGR circuit - less flow than what is expected. With the engine warmed up, very carefully (so you don’t burn your fingers) push the diaphragm in the EGR forward (using the metal tabs and not the actual fabric of the diaphragm). Your engine should try to stall. If it doesn’t, it means that the EGR or its circuit is clogged with carbon. You can take the valve off and clean it thoroughly with carb cleaner, and ream out the intake and exhaust ports while the valve is off the car. Before putting the valve back on, start the car for about 1-2 seconds - it should rev very high and blow more carbon out for you. Note that you may have to do this a number of times, particularly if there is 20+ years of carbon in the circuit.
P0510 - TPS. Just thinking, as you’ve been working in the engine, check the connection to the TPS and wiring going to it. In the past, you said this only came on in 4wd. Does this now happen in 2wd??
ok will do that thanks. I been looking up videos but still didn’t really know where to start. I’ll go with what you said

also yes my p510 used to pop up only after 4wd. But it stopped after I changed the speedometer cable. It popped up after my speedometer cable went crazy on me again.

I’ll check tps too. I was messing around the distributor when I took it off to check if the rotor lined up with the timing
 

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"QUOTE="RoyceGetit, post: 1559481, member: 255038"]
I’ll check tps too. I was messing around the distributor when I took it off to check if the rotor lined up with the timing
[/QUOTE]

You cannot check the ignition timing by looking at the dist, you need a timing light for that..
 

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1996 Suzuki Sidekick 2 Door Automatic 16 valve
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Discussion Starter #72
"QUOTE="RoyceGetit, post: 1559481, member: 255038"]
I’ll check tps too. I was messing around the distributor when I took it off to check if the rotor lined up with the timing
You cannot check the ignition timing by looking at the dist, you need a timing light for that..
[/QUOTE]
Yes I did that to check the engine timing like you suggested while the cover was still off. I’ll check the ignition timing as soon as I get a timing light
 

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Discussion Starter #73
96802

96803


Is this the EGR? If so.. how would I push the diaphragm forward? I tried feeling all around it and can’t seem to figure out what to push?
 

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Yes, that’s it. Look at the EGR in your second photo. If you put your finger into it, in between the metal ‘spokes’ that you see in the photo, you will feel a metal bit inside there. You will not be able to push it forward unless the engine is running. You need to do the test with the engine warmed up, so be careful not to burn your fingers when doing this - gloves or some other protection is good - don’t use anything sharp, as if you miss the metal inside the valve, you can puncture the diaphragm.
 

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1996 Suzuki Sidekick 2 Door Automatic 16 valve
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Discussion Starter #75
Yes, that’s it. Look at the EGR in your second photo. If you put your finger into it, in between the metal ‘spokes’ that you see in the photo, you will feel a metal bit inside there. You will not be able to push it forward unless the engine is running. You need to do the test with the engine warmed up, so be careful not to burn your fingers when doing this - gloves or some other protection is good - don’t use anything sharp, as if you miss the metal inside the valve, you can puncture the diaphragm.
I see. The engine has to be warm first. I thought it just had to be warm for the test and I couldn’t feel anything to push against. I guess the diaphragm only comes out when warm. Thanks for the clarification I appreciate it!
 

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The engine has to be running. When the ECU comes online, it activates the EGR circuit with vacuum. The point about doing it when the engine is warm rather than cold, is that when the running engine is cold, the idle is very high, which will counteract the idea of the engine trying to stall when you push the valve forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
The engine has to be running. When the ECU comes online, it activates the EGR circuit with vacuum. The point about doing it when the engine is warm rather than cold, is that when the running engine is cold, the idle is very high, which will counteract the idea of the engine trying to stall when you push the valve forward.
So I tried pushing on the diaphragm while the engine was warm but I couldn’t feel anything. I tried a few times and it feels the same as when I try it with the engine cold. I can’t seem to figure it out. Maybe I’m doing it wrong. Would there be another way I could test it? Is it easy to remove?
 

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Yes, use a vacuum pump on the diaphragm nipple to activate the valve..
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Yes, use a vacuum pump on the diaphragm nipple to activate the valve..
Sounds good! I’ll look for a vacuum pump today. Thanks

On a side note.. the Sidekick is running so much better then when I first bought it. It’s way more responsive, faster, quicker acceleration, it doesn’t bog or stall anymore, I can switch from 4hi to 4lo without grinding gears ,etc. When I first bought it I assumed that the sidekick was so underpowered that the“sluggish” feeling it had was normal. Now I know it’s capabilities and it’s super fun. I just can’t wait to get rid of these codes so I can really put it to use.
 

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Look at this video at about 30 seconds.
 
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