[2013GV]

Yay, glad you got it into place, I cheat and mark the tc pump slots on the back of the converter with a sharpie, and rotate the pump digs vertically so that last step is simple to line up

 

[skills4lou]

Yea, not sure if you can see the sharpie marks but I tried that too, even had the pump lined up with one of the mounting holes so I couldn't miss. But, it turns out my legs/feet don't make precision movements.

 

[2013GV]

Marks up by the mounts on the top of the converter work, you could transfer them to the face I suppose. At least it's in and engaged which is the main thing

 

[skills4lou]

Next up on Stupid PO Tricks: where did the bolts go that mount the AC compressor to the bracket? Looks like I have one, but need 3. I'll probably end up just purchasing at the hardware store since these aren't really critical. Probably not worth another order from Dubai...

 

[skills4lou]

Small amount of progress this evening, just getting the wiring harness laid back in place and beginning to hook it up. I still need the rest of the bolts that hold the engine/trans together, and I'm considering just yanking them from the spare drivetrain somehow. Once I have that back together then I can get the starter and alternator in place. I am planning to pump as much of the old fuel out as I can, then fill the tank with about 5 gallons of fresh and pump that out, then fill again before connecting to the fuel rail. I figure that'll give me the best chance of NOT gunking up the system that I spent so long cleaning a year or so ago!

 

[2013GV]

Small amount of progress this evening, just getting the wiring harness laid back in place and beginning to hook it up. I still need the rest of the bolts that hold the engine/trans together, and I'm considering just yanking them from the spare drivetrain somehow. Once I have that back together then I can get the starter and alternator in place. I am planning to pump as much of the old fuel out as I can, then fill the tank with about 5 gallons of fresh and pump that out, then fill again before connecting to the fuel rail. I figure that'll give me the best chance of NOT gunking up the system that I spent so long cleaning a year or so ago!

Fit an inline filter with a replaceable cartridge?

 

[skills4lou]

It's more the fact that the gas has been sitting for at least 3 years, and with the ethanol blend that we are forced to use it's most likely just crap through and through. Not really particulate matter, more turpentine. It might run on it, but why take a chance. There's already one filter, and I'll replace that during the process at least once.

 

[skills4lou]

I got a little more tinker time today. First I removed the engine/trans bolts from the spare drivetrain and installed those in the Bazuki (2 bolts, one nut). If anyone reads this in the future, the two shorter bolts go in the two highest positions, then the longer bolts go in the next hole down (1 on each side), followed by the nuts at the bottom. Once I had that all in place, I went ahead an installed the starter, then I got the AC compressor and power steering pump bolted back into place. So far, that all went pretty good. Access to the top right side engine/trans bolt is a PITA, but eventually I figured out where to break my arm for that second wrist action that was necessary. I don't see any way to get a torque wrench in there, so I used the German torque spec.
Anyhow, next up was to start looking at the exhaust manifolds. I started on the driver's side and realized that Max may have been correct on having the manifolds in place before dropping the engine in. However, with them in place I'm not sure I could have fiddled with things enough to get the engine/trans bolts in place, and I know I couldn't have got the AC compressor in place. So, I'm going to attempt a little different method: I'll remove the oil filter, take the steering shaft apart and possibly unbolt the motor mount and lift the engine. I'm hoping the combination of things will give me the extra inch of room needed to get the cat to fit down in place.
I still am waiting on a new crank position sensor. I don't really need a new one, but since I can't find anyone that will sell me just the o-ring I had to purchase the whole she-bang. Once I have that in place I can put the alternator on and finish up the lower right side wiring. If the parts ever show up from Dubai then I can finish bolting the ring gear and torque convertor together. At that point I should be able to install a battery and crank it over for the first time. I did bench test the starter and know that it does work. Hopefully the wiring is all still in place to make it work, but if I've sorted the loom out I'm pretty sure I have that tackled. Then it's gonna be a number of cranking episodes to build oil pressure and hope the lifters haven't completely emptied themselves (right...fat chance!)
Anyhoo, it felt good to make some more progress. If my trick for the exhaust manifolds works then I'll be happy to not need to remove everything. But, I planned on needing to go in and out a few times with the engine as I sort out any more stupid PO tricks that pop up. So, if it needs to come out that won't be a big deal. If it can stay mostly in place, then that would be awesome!

 

[skills4lou]

Making some more progress today. I got the starter and alternator wiring harness in place, installed the alternator, and both exhaust manifolds. For the exhaust I had to lift the engine back up about 1" (still on the mounts, just barely) and I was able to finagle them into place. Now if my parts orders will ever show up maybe I can finish the install!

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk

 

[2013GV]

Engine bay is starting to look busy again, homeward stretch now.

 

[skills4lou]

I swear this pile of @#$^%$ is determined to fight me every single step. Seriously, nothing went right today. Finally, a few parts showed up yesterday evening. So I thought today I might be able to get the torque converter and flexplate bolted together, as well as install the brand new crank position sensor. So far I've managed to loose one of the bolts. For the record, I should have waited to install the starter/alternator/right side exhaust until AFTER I had the TC and flexplate finished up. As it is, I had to install another elbow in one arm, then reach in from one side while trying to look up through the little inspection plate to line everything up, then use the very tip of my fingers to try to spin the bolt. I thought I had the bolt in about 1 turn, then grabbed my little ratchet to try getting it in farther. Of course that's when Murphy showed up. The ratchet dropped down and smacked me in the face. I collected myself, found the wrench and went back in, then I couldn't find the head of the bolt. It's GOTTA be right there, why can I find it? Go in by hand, and realize the bolt is missing. Gone. As in vanished. No can find it anywhere. Not in the car, not on the shop floor, not in any of the corners around the shop. I looked all over, my wife looked all over, my son looked all over. That dang thing is gone. And at this point the only place I can figure is it somehow managed to fall into the bellhousing. Which means the engine comes all the way back out.
And that might be a good thing because I can't get the CPS to go back into it's hole either. The entire reason I bought a new sensor is that the o-ring is unavailable separately, and certainly NOT part of the 'complete' gasket kits that I purchased. Yes, I have two 'complete' gasket sets, and neither of them is actually complete. Anyway, the o-ring on the replacement sensor is just NOT going in the hole. I pulled the o-ring off and installed the sensor just to make sure, and that went just fine. But of course it won't go into place with the o-ring installed. Lots of oil on thing, try to get it in, wiggle it around, push hard with a block of wood...remove, oil, install...push..remove...repeat 18 times, realize at some point that the o-ring now has a little slice on the edge from f-ing around with it. Add a little grey sealant and try a few love taps with the wood block. Still nothing. And of course I've already torqued the front pulley/harmonic balancer in place, so that's not coming back off without a fight.
At that point I was ready to send the hammer through the windshield, so I decided it was time to quit for the day. Seriously folks, If I ever get this one together I'm selling all my Suzuki's and never going to own anything again that doesn't have dealerships in the USA. ARGH!!

UPDATE: Apparently there is JUST enough room in the front axle mount for that missing bolt to drop down inside.

And, I just checked on my order from SSG.asia, and it looks like almost all of my order is cancelled, including the last of the bolts I need to finish mating the engine and transmission. Anyone have a parts pile they'd be willing to look through? Specifically I need to find one more of the TC to flexplate bolts, and one each of the longer and shorter bolts that hold the engine block and trans case together.

 

[skills4lou]

First of the new year update: It runs!

I've been tinkering with it off an on, while waiting for the rest of the parts to show up. I'm still missing a few small things (like that last TC bolt), but I got to the point where I hook up a battery and could crank the engine over. The fuel in the tank smells awful, but there was only maybe 1/2 gallon that came up before it ran dry. I added 5 gallons of fresh, and pumped another 1/2 gallon out before hooking the supply up to the fuel rail. Over the course of the afternoon I'd crank it over for 15 seconds or so, then do something else for 10 minutes, then crank again. After a couple of those the oil pressure was coming up enough to turn off the idiot light. I had the spark plugs out, injector connector and coils disconnected. At that point I figured it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and put all that back together. So, new spark plugs, new boots, connected the last of the engine connections, one more check around looking for loose or missing items. And crank it over again. It sputtered and chuffed a bit, then died. I gave it a bit, then cranked it over...sputter and die. After the third time of that it fired up almost instantly and ran fairly well. I shut it off after about 10 seconds or so (no radiator yet).
Keep in mind that's the first time I've had confirmation that the rest of the ECM/wiring etc was even any good, because I bought this with the engine already removed by the PO. Still have a long way to go, but it sure is nice to have crossed that hurdle!

 

[Max]

Sounds good so far!

 

[2013GV]

Yay, it runs, well done.

 

[urbex]

(like that last TC bolt),

Perhaps it's different between the 2.0L petrol and 2.5L motors, or maybe my memory is gone as it's been about a year since I last had a Zuk trans out...but I don't recall there being anything particularly special about the converter bolts in these things, at least no more so than any other domestic car. I seem to recall they're just regular ol' everyday flanged bolts, and likely could find something similar at a halfway decent hardware store. Heck, I wouldn't even be opposed to a regular bolt and washer if it really came down to it and was the only thing holding me up.

 

[2013GV]

Perhaps it's different between the 2.0L petrol and 2.5L motors, or maybe my memory is gone as it's been about a year since I last had a Zuk trans out...but I don't recall there being anything particularly special about the converter bolts in these things, at least no more so than any other domestic car. I seem to recall they're just regular ol' everyday flanged bolts, and likely could find something similar at a halfway decent hardware store. Heck, I wouldn't even be opposed to a regular bolt and washer if it really came down to it and was the only thing holding me up.

the TC bolts are "special" as they have to hold a significant shear force. Grade 8, flanged and most will be relief cut where the flange meets the threads. 2 different types of bolts on the 2.0's as well.

 

[urbex]

And where exactly does one find a Grade 8 metric bolt? In my 30+ years of wrenching on cars, it's something I've never seen....

I just pulled a converter bolt from my Zuk spares...Class 9.8, flanged, no undercut.

I have generic hardware store Grade 5 bolts with washers in my 5,000lb/2300kg Blazer behind a 500+ HP big block V8... Grade 5 is just a touch weaker than class 9.8, by approximately 15mpa, and they're holding up just fine. I hardly think a Suzuki needs some kind of super duper strength bolt, lol.

Besides which, if those bolts are seeing shear loads, then you haven't installed them properly. They're only there to provide a clamping force between the flexplate and converter pads, and friction between the two is what's holding the load.

If installed correctly and properly torqued, those bolts will never see any significant shear loads.

 

[2013GV]

Ok, get pedantic, grade 8.8. The main metric grades are referred to as 4, 5 and 8 (8.8) here, sorry if that confused you.

I have seen many converter bolts shear off, the V8's don't seem to do it, but the jap stuff certainly does.
Haven't had any come loose on the toy yet, but they got torqued and loctite on assembly. That's doing 440 hp and fet a hard life on the strip

 

[skills4lou]

Hey Urbex, if you have an extra bolt I'd buy it from you and pay shipping.

I got the radiator installed today. Note: Napa's hoses are NOT a direct fit, you'll have to cut 'em down. But they do work. Anyway, I filled it up with fresh coolant and didn't see any leaks. Then I drained and filled the transmission. Still no leaks, so I decided to fire it up and let it come up to temp. Of course the oil has drained out of the lifters so there was a fair amount of clatter. But, it ran fairly smooth and warmed up to the point the thermostat opened up, then held fairly good. The initial oil/stuff burned off the exhaust, but after warming up there was still some steam coming off the engine. Turns out the radiator is holy. I suspected that I'd need to replace it anyway, so not really a huge surprise there. New one is ordered and should be here by next weekend. That'll hopefully give me time to do the brakes and change out all the other fluids...and maybe even get the final bolt in the trans!

 

[urbex]

Ok, get pedantic, grade 8.8. The main metric grades are referred to as 4, 5 and 8 (8.8) here, sorry if that confused you.

Now you're suggesting a bolt that's roughly equivalent in strength to a SAE Grade 5...

It has nothing to do with being pedantic, and everything to do with suggesting the correct parts. There are significant strength differences between a Metric Class 8.8 bolt and a SAE Grade 8 bolt, beyond the thread pitch. Installing a Class 8.8 bolt in an application that needs the strength of a Grade 8 is a good way to find out what bolt failure will cause.

I'm not the one confused. Suggesting that a Grade 8 and Class 8.8 bolt are basically the same thing is just plain wrong and potentially going to cause failure of parts for someone else that may not realize the difference.