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The PO somehow managed to remove the engine with the front diff in place, so I need to drop that and do a little more prep in the engine bay before dropping this thing in place.
There is an easy way. See my thread...
 

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OK, need some help. For some reason I can't for the life of me get the torque convertor to go back onto the transmission input shaft. I looked and can't see that any of the teeth are different, so I don't think it's clocked to a specific position. And yet, the little bugger refuses to return to it's former home. Once I get that back in place the engine will be dropped in place and I can start working the rest of it. But right now I'm stuck with the TC. I looked in both versions the FSM and can't find anything other than a note warning about the TC falling off if the trans is tipped.
Thanks in advance.
to install a T/C i do the following. TC onto shaft, notice the 2 locating slots for pump drive. Holding weight by the snout in the centre, jiggle the converter slightly while rotating it to get the 2 sets (or 3 depending on model) to line up, may need a 1/4 turn and back with gentle pressure applied, you will feel them engage. Just as the last spline starts to engage, the shaft on the converter will reach the seal, at this point, gentle pressure and rotation to get pump drive dogs aligned. these are 180 degrees apart so you may need to rotate the converter a fair bit, will be noticeable when it engages as tthe tc face will be in more than the bell housing, Service manual should give dimension.

its a fiddle and hard to describe but when you get it in you will know and feel the distinct movement as each spline set lines up and the pump drive at the end of the process.
 

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Discussion Starter #143
Thanks guys, it feels like the splines just are refusing to line up. Been at it for an hour now, and no progress. I even tried to line up the pump drive (2 tabs BTW) but still nothing. This isn't the first time I've done this, I even did it on the red one for my Mom and had no trouble
Max, I ordered bolts from SSG, but that'll be a while. If you can find the bolts let me know and I'd take them.
Back in there to keep trying....

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Discussion Starter #144 (Edited)
Do ya think if I use my sledge hammer that'll be ok? ;??);&_##::(

I did your method for the front end Max, it's repositioned, but not removed.
Here's where I am right now...

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Discussion Starter #145
Pic..


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Discussion Starter #146
Free Suzuki, some assembly required....


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Close! So did you seat the T/C?

The crane boom may need a bit more extension. Just don't push the limits and topple forward the whole crane. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #148
Nope, it still has yet to engage. I spent 2 hrs jiggling/rotating/cussing/checking/cussing/jiggling..still won't engage. I'm going to file down the front of the splines on the input shaft a bit just to see if that'll help. Maybe there's a burr on one of them, although I can't see/feel anything. I actually put the engine almost in place once earlier today, just to see if it was going to work with the height of the chassis right now. It's close, but it works. I also used this setup for the J20 in my Mom's.
Anyway, I've almost reached FL8 (that's Frustration Level 8: Thrown tools) so it's gonna have to wait a while.
 

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Pic..


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Looks like its almost in, not in pump drive or front shaft splines by the looks of it
Take it back out, check the inner shaft in the gearbox isn't sitting at the bottom but is centred in the outer shaft. If its not centred, Another trick you can use, chill some vaseline (petroleum jelly) in the fridge over night then pack the centre shaft at the bottom with the vaseline to line it up better then try again.

This is reasonably common on older transmissions with input bushes that aren't perfect, that shaft gets a bit of slop in it, not an issue as the converter holds it in place but makes installing the converter a real pain. If the trans is empty, turn it 90 degrees so its on its side and try again, not onto the selector side unless you protect that shaft and switch by rolling it onto wood blocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #150
With a little crude measuring, it seems that both of the drive splines engage at roughly the same time, followed by the pump about 1/4" later. I think the problem is that both of the internal bits with splines inside the TC move just a bit under gravity. The input shaft for the trans only moves a very tiny amount off center, so I doubt I'd be able to get much movement. Plus, that would be moving the shaft up while the part inside the TC goes down.
Still, I appreciate the suggestion and will look close to see about trying that.

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This is why I say jiggle and rotate the tc. If its that bad, rotate the tc while installing it, as in full rotations clockwise to allow the internals to the converter to move around and line up
Hole pressure on it and spin it reasonably quickly, snout in left hand, reach as far as u can offer your least arm and grab the converter, (so you're grabbing it about 9 o clock) rotate it clockwise and hopefully by the time you get to about 6 o clock you feel the first spline engage
 

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Discussion Starter #152
I'll spin it faster this evening, sure can't hurt!
 

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Discussion Starter #153 (Edited)
Well, another hour and a half wasted on this dumpster fire. Seriously, I'm about ready to just light a match and solve the problems permanently. I spun it fast, slow, forward, backward, jiggled, wiggled, waggled and every combination thereof. I even took out a couple hand files and worked EVERY SINGLE TOOTH of both the spiny bit and non-spiny bits of the input shaft, to make sure there were no burrs that might hang up. It gets to a certain point and just will not go any farther. It doesn't feel like any of the teeth are even thinking about engaging. When I spin it there is no feeling or sound of mismatched gear teeth rubbing against each other, just a smooth spinning motion. I can't see any damage, but I'm seriously beginning to wonder what the heck might be boogered to cause this. I took a bunch of close up pics to blow up and study on my computer, maybe one of you can see something?
Click for link to google photos album of this issue
 

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Did this T/C and trans once mate correctly? Or is this a new set-up?

Trans input shaft seal....replaced and w/the the correct one? You aren't hanging up there, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #155
Removed by PO before my purchase, but I have no reason to believe the two weren't mated correctly before he pulled the engine. Trans seal is not hanging up, I can see the oil track on the outside portion of the TC stub where it's going in to. It's the original seal, my plan was to make sure the TC goes in place, then pull and replace AFTER any futzing required. It's looking like futzing is going to be extensive. The seal appears to be in decent condition and there's no evidence that my repeated attempts to stab the TC in place have caused any damage to the lips of the seal.
 

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Hmmmm....so the TC is remotely suspect as the incorrect unit then. :unsure:
Have you a line of communication w/the PO to confirm?
 

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Discussion Starter #157
Agreed, the TC is possibly suspect. No line of comm with the PO unfortunately. Although for his sake that's probably best this evening.
 

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Discussion Starter #158
Dumpster fire averted!
I resorted to sitting on the radiator support, then pushing and wiggling with my feet for about 45 mins until it finally lined up all the splines and went in about an inch. Of course that moved the pump drive, so I spent another 30 mins or so carefully pulling it back out a smidge, then rotate 2 degrees and push back. Finally after two rotations it finally found the right alignment and popped back into place. I will say that the splines are very tight. Like, new parts with zero wear tight. Anyhow, now I can drop the engine in place and see what else isn't going to work...


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Discussion Starter #159
I couldn't resist.
I also had some help this evening, so that didn't hurt.


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Nice! (y)
 
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