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When I refer to a grade 8.8 metric bolt, it sure isn't going to be an SAE rating is it.

These are Japanese vehicles and use iso ratings, not SAE
 

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When I refer to a grade 8.8 metric bolt, it sure isn't going to be an SAE rating is it.

These are Japanese vehicles and use iso ratings, not SAE
Yes, ISO 898, which defines the properties of metric threaded fasteners, based on property CLASS. There isn't any standards body that defines metric fasteners based on Grade.

So to recap, you insist on using incorrect terminology, changed from a Grade 8 to a Grade 8.8, saying it's the same thing (despite a Grade 8 bolt having a proof load nearly 1.5 times higher than a Class 8.8)... yet imply that it's others that don't know what they're talking about or "are confused", because it's "basically the same thing", even though it isn't...at all.

And with that, I'm done with sidetracking the poor guy's thread because some one else is making a bunch of faulty assumptions....
 

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This rigging setup has been bugging me.

The spreader arm...relatively thin walled square tubing, further drilled & bolted thru at the purchase point and used to lift said engine?

Scary middle weak to say the least, no? Tell me something that eases my mind here. ;)

 

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Scary middle weak to say the least, no? Tell me something that eases my mind here. ;)
If it works, was it really all that bad of an idea? :D

"Backyard" people without knowledge tend to want to WAY over engineer things.

Consider the number of people that bolt up similarly thin walled sliders under their vehicle, and then use them as jacking points with a Hi Lift or similar jack.

Consider the number of 700+ pound V8s that are pulled out of old American cars & trucks with nothing more than a thin steel plate bolted to the intake in place of the carb, by way of four 5/16" studs in an intake often made of questionable aluminum alloys...

And if none of that works...while it's hard to tell from the photo what the exact dimensions of that tubing is, I'm going to make a few assumptions that will be very much conservative, mainly because I don't feel like going out to my frozen garage to verify dimensions of the motor, lol.

1" square tube, 0.120" wall thickness, 3 feet long. Placing a 500 pound load in the center will cause deflection of 0.295" in the tube. Enough strength there.

Given that a Chevy iron block/iron head V8 weighs a bit over 500lbs, I'm sure that the weight of the all aluminum Zuk V6 is MUCH less than that.

Assume the engine weighs 300lbs, and we drop the tubing wall thickness to .090, we now have deflection of 0.215". Drop the tube span to 24", and deflection drops to 0.063"....
 

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Your deflection figures are useless given the now weakened center-point where one apparently drilled a hole thru the cross-section of the tubing, thus seriously compromising lifting arm strength / integrity. 😕
 

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Yes, you are absolutely correct. That tube now has the structural integrity of a wet noodle because of a few small holes drilled into it, and the only logical explanation is that the guy infused the steel with some magic fairy dust to hold the weight!
 

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"Backyard" people without knowledge tend to want to WAY over engineer things.
You should study up on the subject of sling loads and two-point lifts then. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #188
Wow. Just wow.

Max, if it makes you feel better I'm a mechanical engineer. Yes, actual math/physics engineer. Based on my napkin calcs I had a safety factor of at least 3, using 400lbs for my guesstimate of engine weight, and understanding that I was using stated properties for the steel but not certified specs. (Maybe that'll ease your mind?)

ANYHOW, back to the issue at hand....whether a standard fastener from a hardware store will work or not isn't relevant in MY situation. Why? Because one way or another I'm using an OEM bolt. I'm fairly confident that either would be OK. I'm also 100% certain that I don't want that nagging little though in the back of my mind of 'is it going to hold' when I'm out 4-wheeling in the boonies. If that means I have to spend a little more or wait a bit to find the right one..OK, no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #189 (Edited)
I spent a few hours Sunday afternoon going through the front brakes. Mostly just cleaning off the rust from the rotors and then lubing what needed it.
There where a couple codes that popped up, so I read them. Crank sensor, and both upstream O2 sensors. When I get the radiator replaced I'll have to see what they are doing live so I know what's really happening.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
 

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Look what I found! :oops:

What do you need? Send me your mailing address in a "Conversation" if you see something you like. ;)

 

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Discussion Starter #191
Awesome!!!! Look in your inbox in just a minute


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Discussion Starter #192
Well, one step forward, another back. I pulled the radiator out, and as always I compare the old and new parts. Turns out the new radiator is about 3" wider than the original. Doh! So, another week probably of return/ship the correct one etc, and then I'll get to try again. Pretty soon I'm gonna have to start thinking about getting some tires for this thing too. I plan to eventually give it a mild lift. Someone already did a little trimming in the fender liner, and I'll probably end up doing a bit more. I'd like to have 225/75/16's if I can find them in an decent tread pattern. In the mean time, I have the set of Cooper touring tires that I use on the XL7 during the summer just sitting, so they'll be the temporary set until I can get the alloy wheels cleaned up and some new rubber on.
 

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Discussion Starter #193
Big thanks to Max for supplying me with the bolts I need to finish up. Thanks! I'll get the bolts installed this weekend, and maybe the next new radiator will be here soon.
 
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Discussion Starter #194
I decided to go ahead and get the bolts installed this evening. I'm not sure how anyone could get a torque wrench in there to get the correct 47 lb-ft, so I applied the Deutsche torque spec (guten tight). The list is getting smaller:
Change differential/t-case fluids
Go through rear brakes, then flush the entire brake system
Flush the power steering fluid, and probably replace the return hose.
Install radiator whenever it shows up.
Get new tires installed.
Drive it!!
 

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I was checking out your rear brake pics. Yikes! You have your work cut out for you there. :(




 

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Discussion Starter #196
Those ones where pretty bad. But, that was on one of the other rigs (I can't remember which one). I have yet to remove the drums on Bazuki, so I know it wasn't this one. Still, knowing how those ones looked, it's ALWAYS a good idea to inspect everything before you start driving, especially if you haven't ever driven the rig or seen in driving (which is the case on Bazuki).
 

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Then there is hope for ones in better shape to start with. Good! ;)
 
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