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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone. New member here with a new project: 2000 US Grand Vitara with 2.5L gas, Auto, 4wd. I did a little horse trading and ended up with this vehicle. It has 128K miles, and other than the engine is in pretty decent shape. I'm going to spend the next several months tinkering and getting it back on the road (and off-road as well!). My wife decided to call it The Bazuki. I'm not sure where the name came from, but it's already stuck. ;)

Anyway, the engine seized on the previous owner. He removed it, suspected that the timing chain was the issue. While the timing chain was definitely an issue, the main issue was that the oil pickup tube screen was completely plugged with sludge and crud. I started teardown yesterday and found that much. I have one head off, will get the other today. The bottom end is going to be difficult, as things are definitely NOT moving.

I've been reading and researching, will be asking more questions as I get into it further. For now the biggest thing is to find out if the crank and rods are salvageable. If so, then I'll probably rebuild this engine. If not, a local salvage yard has an XL-7 with the 2.7L that is still running for $1K. I've started a photo album on Google, linked below:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/jeQGczTV5r2EAuhG2
 

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Welcome aboard. :)

Given the reported condition of the current engine, I suggest locating a good / used complete replacement. Internal engine parts are both expensive (OE) and lacking an abundance of aftermarket support as well.

The Buzuki LOOKS pretty decent!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Welcome aboard. :)

Given the reported condition of the current engine, I suggest locating a good / used complete replacement. Internal engine parts are both expensive (OE) and lacking an abundance of aftermarket support as well.

The Buzuki LOOKS pretty decent!
Thanks, I'll know more when I get the crank out.

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From the looks of that pick up tube, I would be all over that 2.7L. If you can verify the 2.7L is running and can here start up from a cold start (listening for chain slap), you will be way, way ahead money wise.

Just my opinion, but from the looks of the pick up tube, previous owner drove to detonation :eek:. I bet you have seized rod and main bearings. Not saying it can't be rebuilt, but if wanting to get it rolling quickly and the least expensive way, the 2.7L is the only way to go.
 

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Where are you located? Maybe other members have serviceable parts lying around to contribute.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Where are you located? Maybe other members have serviceable parts lying around to contribute.
I'm near Missoula, MT. I'll most likely do the 2.7, but I have to know how the bottom end looks before pulling the trigger on it.

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Discussion Starter #7
Finally had a little more time yesterday evening to continue the engine tear down. I got the other head off, and three pistons. #6 con-rod is bent, and all the bearings so far are shot. But none of the pistons so far have galled, so that's a plus. I'm probably going to have to partially remove the lower block skirt (not sure what it's actually called, but the part that holds the crank bearings and crank in place. On an iron block it would be the crank bearing caps), as the crank still won't rotate. That makes removal of the other three pistons a little difficult! a couple more pics in the google album.

I've pretty much decided that it's not worth saving this motor, but it would be nice to finish tear down and be able to remove the torque convertor! So, I'll do some haggling with the salvage yards and maybe make a bit better deal on a replacement engine. Wife is going in for surgery next week, so the play money budget is pretty small for a while. Still, the saga continues...
 

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Pretty scary. I think that your cat agrees with the wholesale replacement plan. ;)

 

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Discussion Starter #9
That cat seems to have adopted me. Actually belongs to the kids, but tags along with me when I'm outside.

I talked with the machine shop, and they can do any work needed to rebuild the crank. Have to finish the tear down to see what it looks like. At this point the plan is still to acquire a good take-out, swap whatever parts are needed and install that. Once I have the motor happy in it's new location I'll either sell off any parts I can or slowly rebuild and have a spare motor. I may see about just buying the whole XL-7 so I can rob parts as needed, then return the hulk. Might be nice to have it for the inevitable 'crap I should have grabbed_____' stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Finally finished teardown yesterday. The crank main bearings were all OK. Only one rod journal has some welded bearing material on #6 (same one with the bent rod). So, I might take the crank in and see if the machine shop can clean it up. But first, I'll have to locate a new rod. Any ideas on that? So far the only one I found they want almost $200 for it and $1600 for a rebuilt crank. If parts for these run that high I'm going to seriously consider just parting out the Bazuki and hope to get some of my money back.
 

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You can purchase OE rods singularly.
https://monsterfactoryparts.com/parts/2000/Suzuki/Grand Vitara/JLS?siteid=217481&vehicleid=9094&section=ENGINE&group=PISTONS, RINGS & BEARINGS&subgroup=PISTONS, RINGS & BEARINGS&component=CONNECTING ROD

That assumes that the crank can be saved though. Bearings...you can purchase. In fact, you can purchase an entire reground crank with bearings at RockAuto and alike places.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzuki,2000,grand+vitara,2.5l+v6,1364565,engine,crankshaft,5292

Wish you were close by. I'd GIVE you my old (running well when pulled) high mileage replaced engine for parts!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Max. I guess I'm used to rebuilding GM engines, where a rod would be maybe $30 tops. I guess if I had known how much more expensive parts are I probably wouldn't have started down this road. It's looking like almost all the salvage vehicles I'm finding have crapped out at ~120K miles or so. My question is: If I spend the money to repair this motor right, is it going to be another 120K and done, or do these vehicles last better if taken care of better? Transmission/t-case/body etc: what can I realistically expect? I can buy a little Chevy Blazer for about the same money as a rebuild, and parts for those are cheap! Not a great vehicle, but decent enough. I guess I need some convincing that the money spent on getting the Bazuki back on the road is going to be worth it. I don't expect it to be a $20K new SUV, just reliable little 4wd that we can explore the area with. Yes, we'll need 4wd where we go but it's all established roads/trails.
For now the project is on hold until I get the blown head gasket repaired on the kids car ('94 Olds Ciera).
 

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I'm a SB Chevy guy myself! :) Parts-o-plenty and cheap there.

Zuke engine longevity? The one I pictured / pulled? 305,000 miles on it. :rolleyes:

Look for a good / used engine is still my suggestion. I lucked out with 50K one w/ trans from a wreck for less than a grand.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, 305K is a lot better sounding! I'm going to negotiate a bit with the local salvage place that has the XL7. Since it's the 2.7 instead of the 2.5 I'd rather just take the whole rig, make the swap myself and return what I don't use. Since I didn't remove the motor from my GV that would make it MUCH easier to put back together. I'm the kind of guy who tags and bags everything as it comes off/apart. The guy I got the Bazuki from just threw everything in a bucket...
 

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Frequent oil changes w/quality filters is the key to longevity.

I'm a tag, bag, pics and lists guy myself! A Virgo. ;)

I've posted engine changing tips if you need them, sourced from the top FAQ thread.
 

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Well, what a coincidence.
I bought the Bazuki's younger brother!!




If I was doing it again, I would have opted for a junker engine.
They are easily found around here.
I would include Cadillac's in my search.


Sigh, why aren't they more SBC like.

Max, I'm disappointed, I thought you would get 450k out of that one. :eek:

Don

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Max, I'm disappointed, I thought you would get 450k out of that one.
Come and get it and YOU can try if you want! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I've been reading through the FAQ section. Looks like I should be examining the front diff for CV slop, need to buy a10mm square drive socket, and see if I can find a diagnostic Port under the hood to set timing.

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Discussion Starter #19
And, it looks like the service manual is for vehicles about 500 units AFTER mine was made (my VIN is ...4109722, manuals start at 415000) unless I'm reading something wrong. So, anyone care to guess what changed in the book? OR, anyone have manual for the 1st of the 2nd gen GVs?
 

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From the FAQ Service Manual sourced link, are you referring to this stated portion of the manual?

Applicable model: SQ416/SQ420/SQ625 of and after the vehicle identification number
below.
JSAFTA03V00150001 JS3TA03V 14150001 2S2GTA03C00470001
JSAFTA03V10150001 JS3TA52V 14150001 2S2GTA03C10470001
JSAFTA03V14150001 JS3TL52V 14150001 2S2GTA03C16470001
JSAFTA52V00150001 JS3TD62V 14150001 2S3TA03C 16100001
JSAFTA52V10150001 2S3TA52C 16100001
JSAFTA52V14150001 2S2GTA52C00470001
JSAFTL52V00150001 2S2GTA52C10470001
JSAFTL52V10150001
JSAFTL52V14150001
JSAFTD62V00150001
JSAFTD62V10150001
JSAFTD62V14150001

If so, I think that you will find that all of the North American sourced SQ series vehicles (at a minimum) are supported by this set of two volumes. :)
 
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