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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 94 2dr 4wd tracker
recently it has started loosing power. I would have to downshift on hills that I did not have to before, slower pulling out from stops, longer to get to highway speed.
This morning I went out started the tracker got out to scrape the windows and when I got back in and started to pull out it stumbled and died like it was out of gas. It would not restart.
I ended up taking the spare vehicle to work.
Is there a way to test the fuel pump and what else should I check before I start throwing parts and money at it?

Thanks

Travis
 

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You need to do a bit of diagnostic testing to see why the car won't start. Have you checked the fuses under the dash (do your dash lights work?) Is the check engine light on with the key on, and off when cranking? When the car wouldn't start, did you pull the plugs to see if they are wet (flooding)? Did you look in the oil filler cap to see if the cam is spinning? You can try to start the car with test fuel sprayed into the intake - if the car starts this way, then your problem is fuel. If it still won't start, then it is most likely ignition.
You don't advise what maintenance you have done on the car - a compression test will advise whether the car is timed properly, and is usually a good place to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did not have time yesterday morning to check anything, I had to get to work.
last night after dealing with the wifes truck breaking down in traffic I finally made it home about 9pm.
Checked all the fuses and they are all good.
I have been trying to do a tune up around the weather since I do not have a garage.
I have changed the spark plugs, and plug wires in the last couple of weeks. changed the oil and filter also
I had a fuel filter on hand so I switched that out since it was there and I was hoping it was simply a clogged filter. It started and ran sluggishly for a few seconds after the filter change.
I had attempted to start it before changing the filter and it would not start.
I did not see Bex's post till after I called it quits for the night. I will check the camshaft this evening. I do not have a compression tester I will see if I can borrow one form the local autoparts store.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
By the time I got home from work last night it was too cold and dark to do anything other than dbl chk the fuses.
all the fuses are good.
turn the key on No CEL. Does this point to the ECM?
 

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By the time I got home from work last night it was too cold and dark to do anything other than dbl chk the fuses.
all the fuses are good.
turn the key on No CEL. Does this point to the ECM?
It could just point to the bulb. You will need to pull the dash and see if the bulb is there or burned out. You need to confirm that you have a working bulb, before you can ascertain whether the problem is the ECU or not.
Regarding the no start issue - try starting the car with test fuel sprayed into the intake and see if the car will start that way - if it does, then you have confirmed that your problem is on the fuel side of ignition. And just curious, did this problem start before or after you changed the plugs and wires? Plugs need to be gapped at .028" and just not used out of the box, where the gap is too wide. And if you can borrow that compression tester, do the test by pulling the F1 fuse, pulling all plugs and flooring the gas pedal when you are cranking. If you have the 8v engine, you should pull at least 150psi on a stone cold engine, more like 170 on one that's slightly warm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the running poorly and loss of power started before I changed the plugs and wires. seemed to be running with a miss so I changed the plugs and wires with no improvement in how it was running
the check engine light was on Sunday.
I will try the starting fluid tonight if it isn't snowing when I get home.
I hate this weather
 

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I hate this weather
Chin up, it's almost over....:)

It's probably a good idea for you to also do that compression test on the engine
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
When I made it home last night I tried the starting fluid and it would not start.
Did the compression test and the results are
1. 130
2. 129
3. 132
4. 120
I know these are a bit low and I am hoping the weak battery is the cause for that. My mother in law has one of my battery chargers and my dad has the other one
When I pulled the plugs they were damp with gasoline so it would appear they are getting fuel.
I checked the fuses once again and they are all still good.
Still no check engine light and if it is not butt numbing cold when I get off work today I will swap the bulb and dbl check that.
 

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Definitely charge up that battery and try again (making sure that the gas pedal is floored when cranking). If you get the same compression again, then it would appear that your valve timing is off/belt jumped a tooth, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
that will probably have to wait till I get back in town, Work is sending me out of town tomorrow and wont be back for a week
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok here is the update on the compression test with a fully charged battery and the battery charger hooked up and set to 50amp start

1. 90
2. 115
3. 90
4. 90

no clue why it was different from the first test. I even ran it a second time and got the same results

What is my next step?
please do not say new engine

thanks
Travis
 

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Your timing is off. You should recheck your timing belt, make sure it is lined up properly to cylinder #4 firing, using the proper marks. While you are there, check the center bolt on the crank pulley (which normally does not have to be removed when doing a timing belt) and make sure that it is torqued to 94 ft/lbs. If you find that the bolt is looser than that, you will have to remove the crank pulley and check the crank keyway, as it is possible that the keyway has sheared.
 

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Ok here is the update on the compression test with a fully charged battery and the battery charger hooked up and set to 50amp start

1. 90
2. 115
3. 90
4. 90

no clue why it was different from the first test. I even ran it a second time and got the same results

What is my next step?
please do not say new engine

thanks
Travis
Were both compression tests done WOT and all spark plugs removed? You did well to leave a battery charger on it while performing the compression test.
 

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Please remember, these tests are being performed of a COLD engine - the numbers will be lower than expected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Both compression test were performed on a very cold engine
all four spark plugs removed
throttle wide open

If it is the timing belt has slipped a tooth can I replace the timing belt with new one and save the engine?

what parts are necessary to replace the timing belt.

thanks
Travis
 

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99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
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Ok
1. 90
2. 115
3. 90
4. 90

What is my next step?
please do not say new engine

thanks
Travis
I do not like the issue of inconsistent PSI, you have one at 115.
Although all low normally indicates an engine timing issue..

Did you check your valve lash and repeat the test, wet?

.... Philip
 

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I also wonder at the difference between the first test results and the latter one above. I would agree that inspecting (and adjusting) the valve lash should be done (easy enough and instructions are on the forum), and then re-doing the compression test. But I would also wonder if this engine timing has been mistakenly timed to the wrong cylinder (it should be timed to cylinder #4)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The tracker was running up until 2 weeks ago.
before that it had been running rough (poor idle and loss of power) for about a week or so.
It has been my daily driver for about 5 years now.
 

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The tracker was running up until 2 weeks ago.
before that it had been running rough (poor idle and loss of power) for about a week or so.
It has been my daily driver for about 5 years now.
That is all anecdotal info, no longer applicable..

My neighbour was Ok (for 30yrs), till he had a heart attack, now he is not...

..... Philip
 
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