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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I'm selling my Samurai (i'm relocating abroad). Should I let potential buyers test the 4wd on normal roads? If so, for how long, and how much damage could this cause to the 4wd system?

I'm concerned because somebody tested it on a normal road, for approx 5 minutes, and reported that it was making clanging noices, and was faulty...
 

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This is an older vehicle. Unless the parts have been replaced or serviced regularly, I would not recommend it. I would also never let someone (even on a test drive) take the vehicle out without being in the vehicle myself. Unfortunately, most folks don't know how to use 4wd correctly and can cause damage. That being said...

With stock (open) differentials, you can run down the road in 4wd and not kill anything. It will put more of a strain on the front bits, but if everything is in good order it will hold up well.

If you have bad u-joints up front or a bad output shaft at the t-case, you will hear them (clanging/banging) when running in 4wd. The noises will also happen if you have any lift and you haven't done anything to correct the driveshaft/pinion angles.

Take a look at your components and see what actually broke.
 

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the person testing it may have broken it from complete inexperience. He may have been trying to shift on the fly or may not have even turned the manual hub locks. Like Bill said, "never let someone take a solo drive in your vehicle" If they break something on it they have no recourse and can just walk away, where you are stuck with a broken vehicle that is no longer in sellable condition. People are a lot less likely to drive it abusively if you are in the passenger seat.
 

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+1 for NO solo test drives.
I will even drive it first with them ridding to show them how it runs and operates. Then swap seats and let them drive.

I have run mine on the road in 4x4 to try things out but I don't lock the front hubs.

Maybe they didn't break it..... If they ran it at speed on the road and you usually only drive it off-road at slower speeds in 4x4 it may have had the problem all along but just not noticable off-road.
My front driveshaft would bang and clang at speed but not when driving slower. The driveshaft spun fine on the lift and looked fine but when operated down the road with a little speed (25-30mph) it would start making all kinds of noise.
Not broken but still needed to be corrected because of my lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks everyone for your replies.

It was very stupid and naiev of me to let this person test drive it on his own. He didnt even ask if he could test drive in 4wd. He drove off in 2, but by the time he came speeding round the corner back to where I was waiting it was in 4wd- And he was going at some speed.

It was making a clanging noise, which seemed to be coming from the ront of the rear side.

I'm guessing there is nothing I can do about this person, other than learn from it?!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the person testing it may have broken it from complete inexperience. He may have been trying to shift on the fly or may not have even turned the manual hub locks. Like Bill said, "never let someone take a solo drive in your vehicle" If they break something on it they have no recourse and can just walk away, where you are stuck with a broken vehicle that is no longer in sellable condition. People are a lot less likely to drive it abusively if you are in the passenger seat.
The person didnt do anything to the hub locks. I have only driven in 2wd to work and around town. To what extent would this have damaged the 4wd?
 

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I can think of a whole list of possible breaks... done most of them myself. But it will be easier if you crawl underneath and check a few things first.

1. Anything leaking? Trans, Transfer case or Diffs - they all have parts that can go boom. A leak can reveal a crack, and a crack can allow innards to move more than they are designed to do.

2. Driveshaft U-joints. They are an easy break and sometimes the problem isn't really visable. You may have to shake them around and see what moves.

3. Component Mounts. Engine, trans and t-case can all make bad noises when they aren't held in place correctly.

That's a good start.

Oh, and Welcome!
 

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if he didn't lock the hubs then that eliminates a bunch of problems he could have caused to the birfs and front axle. X2 on checking out the front drive shaft for balance. Mine was out of phase and I didn't even know untill Bill John straightened me out. Worked fine at low speeds, but over 25 it would start thumping.
 

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PART TIME 4wd has NO CENTER DIFFERENTIAL.



if the hubs are not locked its not in 4wd, so the points are moot.
the issue is wind up, here is the factory TSB explaining HOW to get UN WOUND UP! (ah RTM?)

in 4wd you can do this ( bad) easy by testing and turning on hard asphat or concrete.

so put 2 right wheels in the ditch (sand,gravel,dirit,or sod ) and engage 4wd
and say see it works.) or go off road.
you will and can wind it up on the road. in true 4wd,
some go straight and avoid this, but , why do that?, why stress part time system like that.? risk?
weakens and stretches the CHAIN TOO.

WHEN, the front hubs are not locked the axles spin free and are safe as bird.

unlocked the axles are making hot grease, that is all.
need wiki animations, have em.


this TSB is for dweebs , who do that and cant figure how to get undone, sad.


 

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if the hubs are not locked its not in 4wd, so the points are moot.
Not really...
Putting it in 4wd and leaving the hubs unlocked will still spin the front driveshaft. If there is any play in the ujoints or the angles are wrong due to an incomplete lift, then you will definately have some noise if you spin that driveshaft. It can also make a bad part worse if you beat on it this way. This will happen on or off road.
(personal experiance)
;)
 

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that was not the post , how to test 4wd components

the post is how to test 4wd on pavement for a new buy
the buyer is not going to crawl under can and do all the component tests

well , maybe me. but who else would.

i was on topic, no?

Should I let potential buyers test the 4wd on normal roads?
 

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poster re state your 1st post to pavement ,delete normal.


i sold 4 kicks last 2 years.
all buyers drove kicks in my back yard 1.5 acre) in real 4wd.
I told them dont do this on hard pavement.! Please.

but im selling car they didnt ask. for 4wd demo.

i dont like getting back busted up cars,
so I show them how to do it right.

in the dirt in real 4wd.

i then turn slow on the dirt and say, feel the front wheels fighting you see them skid a bit, i then say,dont do that on pavement.

they say , cool. every time.

no come backs.

i like fixing them and selling them. tons of fun. and $$$
 

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He drove off in 2, but by the time he came speeding round the corner back to where I was waiting it was in 4wd- And he was going at some speed.

It was making a clanging noise, which seemed to be coming from the front of the rear side.
The post was more to answer the followup comment he had made. More to explain what might have gone wrong...
 

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yes, he was just stating not to do it but if fixing 4wd fails you might......... bla bla.

but i was posting to the topic.

for sure.

that being if the hubs are not locked its NOT in 4wd.

nothing more and added the solution , if SOMEONE failed to read the manuals.

how to fix 4wd is a whole other program. and adventure, (not selling that is another)

here is my start.

testing 4wd action

the jackups and the simple tests

all here.

i made this after they posted that question 1000 times on our side. (KICK SIDE)

few if any under stand open diffs.
IE:
1 tire slips on each end , you go NOwhere, but if you drag the brakes , you do.

that will get them all (reader) wondering that trick,,,,,,, good.........


one more trick,
your stuck off road with auto lock hubs
one tire off ground

drag brakes and gun motor, BANG locked and moving (for crappy auto lock cars that are IFFY)
 
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