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Discussion Starter #1
This might be the strangest first post on this site - here goes.

I've a salt-of-the-earth Orkin guy who has been handling pest control at my house every month for seven years (my wife despises rodents). He told me last month he had been taking the bus to work because his 1990 Tracker was inoperable. Well, he just visited again this morning with the same issue. He doesn't have internet, nor much money, so I told him I'd start searching for a solution.

Here's what I know. He was told his "air idle control valve" is bad. I don't know why his mechanic decided this to be faulty, but I can't for the life of me find one for sale online. In fact, I've tried locating some parts fiche/diagrams on the car without much luck.

I did use one of the links provided on here in an effort to find an air idle control valve. I used http://www.rhinoman.org/manuals/Vita..._catalogue.pdf.

It shows a "Valve, Solenoid" with a part number 18117-56B10, but not until 1991.

Was the idle air control valve introduced in 1991? If so, I guess his mechanic is wrong. If not, does anyone know a Part Number for the 1990?

If it does indeed have an idle air control valve, where would he find it in the engine bay? He's all for taking it off and trying to clean it (as his mechanic told him he could). If it's not salvageable, I guess the next step would be trying to source a replacement part.

Thanks for any help you can provide. I can tell from spending the past couple hours on here looking for answers that this is a great forum with lots of knowledge and helpful folks, so my fingers are crossed!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ranger88den,

You're right. The more threads I've read up here, the more I realize I haven't provided much information for you all to properly troubleshoot.

It's not my car, and I've very limited information other than the car isn't working. That, and his mechanic told him he needs an "idle air control valve," which, at this point, I don't believe exists on the 1990. I believe it started in 1991 and superseded the 1990's "idle speed controller" or ISC.

What I know thus far, mostly trusting Wiki, is the car is a Chevrolet/GMC Tracker, 1990, 4 cylinder, 4WD. I don't know induction type, as it appears to have changed mid-year. I presume this coincided with the production move in 1990 from Japan to Ontario, but I don't know that for sure. He did say it's fuel injected, though.

I also don't know if it's an automatic or manual transmission. But, aside from an extra bracket on the driver's side of the throttle body for the automatic, I don't believe it's salient in this thread.

I read about an "idle air valve" behind a metal plate on the passenger side of the throttle body. It apparently works via an expandable wax pellet. Is this a separate part that can be cleaned/replaced, or is it integral to the throttle body?

Thanks for your patience with me!
 

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We need to know the symptoms. Through my hoarding over the years, I have accumulated a 1990 Tracker FSM and a '90 1.6, 8v, throttle body (the ISC is indeed different from '91 and up), so if you need pics or specs, I may be able to help.
 

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Suzuki and GM use both ISC and IAC to describe the various idle air regulators.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
We need to know the symptoms. Through my hoarding over the years, I have accumulated a 1990 Tracker FSM and a '90 1.6, 8v, throttle body (the ISC is indeed different from '91 and up), so if you need pics or specs, I may be able to help.
That's AWESOME! You made me realize I forgot to put 8v in the above info, too.

I've left the guy a couple texts, but I'm not sure if he has that ability on his phone. If I don't hear from him tonight once he gets off work, I'll call him and get more information on how the car behaves. I've seen FSM in several threads. Is it a Field Service Manual? [email protected]#$ing Service Manual?! I highly doubt he has one. It'd be nice if it were in a pdf I could download for him.

Rhinoman, I appreciate the clarification - makes more sense now.

Since I can't seem to find either a comparable Tracker forum or Tracker-specific parts diagrams online, am I safe in saying the ISC for 1990 is interchangeable between the Suzuki Sidetracker and the GMC/Chevrolet/GEO Tracker?

Thanks, fellas!
 

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FSM = factory service manual. Re: interchange, I'd assume so, but you know what happens when you assume. :)

EDIT: looking at the '90 TB it appears it has an in plenum heater, like some Geo Metros, as opposed to the initial vacuum based cold idle enrichment "dashpot", but does have the cold idle thermo-wax air valve like the later 8v throttle bodies.

ps As a matter of curiosity, while at the junkyard yesterday, I saw a '94 Tracker 8v with an EGR thermoprobe. Never saw one before, ................... but life's for learning.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
First off, HOLY SMOKES! I hadn't paid any attention to your, or Rhinoman's, signature line. I'm thankful to have two dudes so knowledgeable helping me out!

I started to type "assume" in my response below but instead wrote "safe in saying," as I don't want to assume anything!!

You've got me scratching my head on the plenum heater, so I've attached a diagram of the throttle body below. Which part number are you referring to?



I've made notes on the scanned diagram above to help this guy find the part, as it's currently mounted on his Tracker. I don't think he has email. So, I'll likely end up handing him the piece of paper along with any advice provided by you guys.

Thanks for any clarification you can provide!
 

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Now that you have most of the parts diagrams,...

We need to know details of how the engine starts, runs... tough to diagnose from afar..

No need to tell us what the mechanic may have deduced.... we need empirical info...

... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ranger88den,

Thanks for taking the time to grab a pic of the '90 throttle body. It looks as if the ISC is partially hidden behind the upper wiring. If I have my orientation correct, rotating the piece 90 degrees to the right would have me staring at the ISC.

Do you happen to know where the plenum heater is you mentioned earlier? Can I see it in the pic you uploaded?

aquanaut20,

I agree more information is necessary to begin troubleshooting the problem. As an update, last night I found out he does indeed have email. So, I forwarded him the parts diagram, a few threads from this forum and a request to either login and type up his symptoms in this thread or send me a very detailed account of what has happened and I'll paste it here.

We're in a holding pattern until he gets us more info.
 

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The plenum heater is the part that hangs down from the throttle body, its a circular heater.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Rhinoman,

Got it. I was confused in that I thought the plenum heater was in lieu of the cold idle thermo-wax air valve.

Is the cold idle thermo-wax air valve in the picture? Can it be cleaned? If so, any recommendations on what to use (can't imagine carb cleaner and a wax pellet make good bedmates)?
 

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As per Aqua, you need to advise in detail, what the car does. Does it crank? Does it start? If it does start, what is cold idle? What does the idle do as the car runs? Does the car warm up, etc.
Normally, the wax pellet valve being bad will not prevent the car from starting.
If your friend has email (so he is on the internet) you should probably send him the link to the forum. These cars are fairly easy to work on, although a surprising number of mechanics are unfamiliar with it, its circuits, timing, etc. And yes, I would not buy any parts at all, until you do proper diagnostic tests.
If the car is cranking, but not starting, then a good place to start is to spray some test fuel into the intake pipe, to see if the car will run on test fuel.
He should also advise if the check engine light is on with the key on (it MUST be), and off when cranking. If not, he must see if he can get a code 12 from the computer. Instructions here and on the forum:
Check Engine Light
Please note that all 1995 and earlier Trackicks have had to replace 3 capacitors in the ECU (which will cause the car to crank but not start - and will not allow you to get the code 12). It's a $5 fix, and we have all had to do this, at some point.
I'm assuming that the car cranks - otherwise there would be no talk of IAC, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Bex, thanks for the input. I assume the car cranks, too, but I'm awaiting detailed information from the owner.

I read through the Check Engine Light link. I have questions.

In the case of a six-pin connector, when Input Terminals DST "B" and TST "E" are both grounded ("0"), how is that accomplished simultaneously? Is a jumper run from B to D and a second jumper run from E to D in such a way two blades are inserted into the D terminal?

Or, does it require a type of Y jumper where D is at the bottom of the Y and the top of the Y flares out to terminals B and E?

I've some 18-gauge wire. Will 18-gauge blade connectors work for this testing? If so, coupled with answers to the above, I think I'll make up some jumpers for the owner to diagnose via the CEL.

Thanks again for all the input thus far. You guys are much appreciated!
 

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The 1990 will have the 4 pin connector, and it will be located right by the battery, dangling off of 4 wires - a small white box with a black locking top. You depress the tab in to remove the black top, and you will see 4 pins inside. All you need is a metal paperclip - you jump the top right to the bottom left pin, which will be the pins for the blue/yellow to black wire. Then, with the key in the on position, the check engine light on the dash should flash, like Morse code. Flash, pause, flash flash, longer pause and repeat will be a code 12. If you get the code 12, it means that the computer does not see any major faults. You can also keep the diagnostic jumper (paper clip) in place, and now crank the car. See if the code changes to 41 or 42, which is the ignition circuit. You should also check and make sure that the dash lights are working with the key on. The ignition coil fuse, if blown, will prevent the car from starting (it will crank) but the dash lights are on the same circuit, so if they are not working, it's possible that this fuse has blown.
There are loads of fairly easy tests to do, before you start throwing parts at the car. Aside from the above, it's also a good idea to do a compression test, which will advise of the timing and health of the engine, and, frankly, if the timing belt has broken (which will also prevent the car from starting, obviously). On the 1990, you should get at least 150 psi on a stone cold engine on all cylinders. You stop fuel delivery and spark, remove all the spark plugs, make sure the battery is fully charged, and floor the gas pedal when cranking to get the best compression.
 

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Metal paperclip!! ;)
 

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