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I could count the front hubs but I can not access the back hubs - they are a sealed unit.
Yes, you can, remove the sensor and look down the hole in the hub the sensor fits in.

This is why you fit OEM sensors and hubs, You either have a hub with different numbers of teeth, or sensors that aren't counting all the teeth.

I'm leaning towards teeth count as its a "front vs rear" issue rather than one corner reading funny.


The 2 well known shops I took it to said it was the pump.


I found a used ABS pump ($50, 49K miles, no codes) on e-bay and replaced it & cleared all codes.
Did not require the ABS computer to open the pump & bleed the lines but a LOT of air.

Still same issue, code C1033.
Front wheels still read the same + slower than back wheels.
guess what, its not the pump.

I bet theres still air in the pump, you can't bleed it properly without running the pump motor and opening the solenoids in the correct order to drive out the air.
 

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Personally, I would connect the scope to the input (all 4) and record raw data, as opposed to processed data (scanner..)

That would take the guess work out of the equation.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
10/4/2019 SOLVED !!!!!!
RECAP : I had replaced the 2 front bearings (DURANGO) and 2 back bearings (BECK ARNLEY) at same time (stupid thing to do I guess)
ABS code C1033 - front/back speed were 10% different
I replaced 2 backs with TIMNKEN - same issue
I replaced all 4 speed sensors with INTERMODIAL ("standard") - same issue
I replaced the ABS pump/control unit (per Suzuki manual) - same issue
I replaced the front bearing with TIMKEN brand (to match the back) and TA DA

My ABS light is off and the AWD light doesn't flash now
I have a new drive shaft as well (U JOINTS were bad) - I AM READY FOR WINTER !!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Personally, I would connect the scope to the input (all 4) and record raw data, as opposed to processed data (scanner..)

That would take the guess work out of the equation.
It was bad front DURAGO hubs. I replaced with TIMKEN and problems solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Personally, I would connect the scope to the input (all 4) and record raw data, as opposed to processed data (scanner..)

That would take the guess work out of the equation.
It was bad front DURAGO hubs. I replaced with TIMKEN and problems solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Personally, I would connect the scope to the input (all 4) and record raw data, as opposed to processed data (scanner..)

That would take the guess work out of the equation.
It was bad front DURAGO hubs. I replaced with TIMKEN and problems solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
NOTE :I did use a scope and the measured - the fronts and backs read the same. It was not until the car reached 40MPH that the front speed was off 10%. A person on amazon commented that they had the same issue with these @DURAGO bearings.
 

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NOTE :I did use a scope and the measured - the fronts and backs read the same. It was not until the car reached 40MPH that the front speed was off 10%. A person on amazon commented that they had the same issue with these @DURAGO bearings.
That is indicative of an air gap issue, did you use a scope (back probe at wheel) or scanner (via OBDII port)?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
We used a snap-on abs scanner to show the wheel speeds were different at 40MPH
the code was C1033.
The SX4 manual says could be hubs, speed sensors, or the ABS pump (we tried all 3)

hooking a meter to the ABS cable and spinning the wheels slowly 360 degrees they all had the same number of "spikes".

This guy on amazon had the same problem with these DURAGO bearings
DuraGo 29596108 Wheel Hub Kit

https://www.amazon.com/DuraGo-29596108-Wheel-Hub-Front/dp/B01M0AO9VZ#customerReviews

The new front TIMKEN bearings fixed the issue on the spot.
(Backs are TIMKEN)

I've learned to do ONE wheel at a time from now on and to not mix brands.
 
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