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I've had Duracell button batterys unable to supply load straight out of the packet. Great volts, but no guts. Press a fob button and the volts dropped to 0

Id try different batteries, and clean the contacts in the fob with an old fashioned eraser, I find the ones on school pencils the best.
 
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I have ordered another battery.

What I don't understand is:

1)The immobiliser yellow key light has gone off and now lets me start the car (ie it recognises the key)

Surely that means the battery in the key is working? So what would make it not work remotely away from the car, if it accepts the key in the ignition?

Only thing I haven't checked yet is the fuses. I down loaded the manual and it says there are 2 fuse boxes. One under the steering wheel (which I so far cannot seem to get the panel off), and one in the engine bay.

As far as I can see, the numbered diagram for the fuses doesn't show anything for remote locking or keys.

Doesn't make sense.
 

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No, unless its keyless start then you get a blue light when you try to start or a red if it doesn't detect the fob inside the car.
The immobiliser in a key start system, (and in the keyless start if you use the emergency key) detects the rfid chip in the key when its inserted in the ignition barrel. Theres a small antenna around the barrel assembly
Totally independent of the buttons to lock and unlock, which uses a different module entirely to the engine immobiliser
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
No, unless its keyless start then you get a blue light when you try to start or a red if it doesn't detect the fob inside the car.
The immobiliser in a key start system, (and in the keyless start if you use the emergency key) detects the rfid chip in the key when its inserted in the ignition barrel. Theres a small antenna around the barrel assembly
Totally independent of the buttons to lock and unlock, which uses a different module entirely to the engine immobiliser
Thank you for clarifying that.,

So the problem is the lock/unlock circuit (not the immobiliser) although initially the key symbol wouldn't let the engine start.

Fuse is next check, but the list does not signify which one handles that part of the car, so I guess I have to take them all out and see if ones blown.
 

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If you turn the key in the door then the door lock system is functioning as the door switch in the driver's door sends a signal to the lock/unlock module. This is how the 1 turn to unlock driver 2 turns for rest is accomplished
Only but that could have died is the receiver section for the fob but that's unlikely. I'm betting it's just list programming due to a flat car battery for a long enough time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
If you turn the key in the door then the door lock system is functioning as the door switch in the driver's door sends a signal to the lock/unlock module. This is how the 1 turn to unlock driver 2 turns for rest is accomplished
Only but that could have died is the receiver section for the fob but that's unlikely. I'm betting it's just list programming due to a flat car battery for a long enough time.
Thanks again.

So does that mean when I lock the drivers door manually, the immobiliser is activated and working? (I notice the little blinking red light on the dash works when I do this)

Thing is, until the main dealer get back to me, I can't get it re-programmed (its been a few days now and I have phoned them twice but they don't seem in any hurry to help)
 

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The immobiliser is working as soon as the key is removed from the ignition barrel and the security module no longer detects the rfid chip in the key.

The red so called "immobiliser " light that blinks is actually activated as a fake theft deterrent by the bcm when key is removed. Its even stated in the handbook. The only way to tell the immobiliser has triggered is by the warning light on the dash when an unrecognised key is used to try to start the car.

Any decent shop with a higher end scan tool should be able to reprogram the locking function

I have a key here that I lost and then found, but recoded the car security system to remove it from memory. Opens the doors fine, but won't start the car.
 
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
The immobiliser is working as soon as the key is removed from the ignition barrel and the security module no longer detects the rfid chip in the key.

The red so called "immobiliser " light that blinks is actually activated as a fake theft deterrent by the bcm when key is removed. Its even stated in the handbook. The only way to tell the immobiliser has triggered is by the warning light on the dash when an unrecognised key is used to try to start the car.

Any decent shop with a higher end scan tool should be able to reprogram the locking function

I have a key here that I lost and then found, but recoded the car security system to remove it from memory. Opens the doors fine, but won't start the car.

That's good to know. I still don't understand why it initially did that yellow key warning for the 1st day, then suddenly it liked the key and the car started.

Weird.
 

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Mine did that after a battery change too but I'd done other stuff with the electronicsat the same time (had abs and ecm unplugged) , I just cycled the key in, key out, open and close drivers door a few times, then it decided id inserted a valid key and started.

Strange yours has done it.
 
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