Swift SZL 2016 Engine won't start and key fobs not working.

965 Views 28 Replies 5 Participants Last post by 2013GV, 4 mo ago

Jumbo44

Discussion Starter · 4 mo ago

Hope someone has experienced this problem as I am at a loss.

My 2016 Swift SZL's battery went flat (after very cold weather). Its already been replaced a year ago. It has been re-charged now.

One of my key fobs stopped working some time ago, and now the other one has too (weirdly at same time as car battery went flat). I changed the batteries on both keyfobs with CR1616 batteries.

The fobs do nothing when I press the buttons.

I can open the door manually.

When I start the car, it just turns over but won't start.

The car has been supper reliable and always started on first turn.

Any ideas? I'm guessing if I contact my main dealer they will charge me the earth for even looking at it.

Thank you for any help.

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Jumbo44

Discussion Starter · #3 · 4 mo ago

fordem said:
Look at the dash when you're trying to start the engine - do you see ANY lights that are not normally on - like a key or a padlock?

Hello.

I just checked.

There is a flashing yellow key symbol.

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Jumbo44

Discussion Starter · #5 · 4 mo ago

fordem said:
That suggests you have an immobilizer related issue - time to call the dealer.

Ok thanks.
Can't take the car there as it wont start. No doubt its going to cost £££££.

Thought Suzuki's were supposed to be reliable. <sigh>

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Jumbo44

Discussion Starter · #8 · 4 mo ago

bvs said:
Jumbo - when you changed the fob batteries you might have lost the immobiliser 'chip' out of the key.
Is the fob part of the key with your car,the actual lock/unlock buttons have nothing to do with starting the engine.

Thanks, but I changed the battery in both, They seem very simple., There is no chip than could fall out?

I can see this spiralling out of control as the car will need to be collected and worked on. just because the battery went flat (which was changed last year). Never had problems like this with BMW or VW.

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Jumbo44

Discussion Starter · #10 · 4 mo ago

bvs said:
Is your key part of the fob though ? or is the fob separate from the key ?
Nothing to do with the battery - the chip just sits there next to the steering column and communicates with the ECU/immob.

I have no idea.

The key is similar to your pics, but there is no chip part I can see.

The car is a 2016 Szl

Is there not some kind of reset procedure?

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Jumbo44

Discussion Starter · #13 · 4 mo ago

bvs said:
Just had a look on Transpondery.com and it looks like it might be a similar chip as ours,but I cannot be absolutely sure.
Should be there somewhere - are you close to a dealer ?
If not a car Locksmith might be able to help out - they should be able to tell if the transponder chip is present with the key.

Yeah, looks like i'll have to go to the local dealer.

Ker-ching!!!!

Thanks for your help gents.

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Jumbo44

Discussion Starter · #16 · 4 mo ago

UPDATE. Put key in ignition and Yellow key warning light on dashboard has gone. Car now starts (but both keys still wont open/close remotely).

Contacted main dealer but they still haven't got back to me.

Wondering if the very cold weather may have helped towards the problem.

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Jumbo44

Discussion Starter · #19 · 4 mo ago

bvs said:
Great she decided to start
Check voltage on key fob batteries ? just in case a duff batch ?
Fob batteries fitted correct way round ?
Is there a fuse for central locking ?

Well I'm guessing now the yellow key light has gone out on the dashboard, the immobiliser has somehow recognised the key to allow the car to start?

The CR1616 batteries were a pack of 5. (Non branded).

I just found a diagram of the fuse box for a 2016 Swift and can't see any mention of locking. (Seems the fuse box is on right of leg room in fron of door).

Thank you for suggestions, Slowly homing in on problem. At least the car now starts and I can lock the door manually.

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Jumbo44

Discussion Starter · #22 · 4 mo ago

I have ordered another battery.

What I don't understand is:

1)The immobiliser yellow key light has gone off and now lets me start the car (ie it recognises the key)

Surely that means the battery in the key is working? So what would make it not work remotely away from the car, if it accepts the key in the ignition?

Only thing I haven't checked yet is the fuses. I down loaded the manual and it says there are 2 fuse boxes. One under the steering wheel (which I so far cannot seem to get the panel off), and one in the engine bay.

As far as I can see, the numbered diagram for the fuses doesn't show anything for remote locking or keys.

Doesn't make sense.

See less See more

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Jumbo44

Discussion Starter · #24 · 4 mo ago

2013GV said:
No, unless its keyless start then you get a blue light when you try to start or a red if it doesn't detect the fob inside the car.
The immobiliser in a key start system, (and in the keyless start if you use the emergency key) detects the rfid chip in the key when its inserted in the ignition barrel. Theres a small antenna around the barrel assembly
Totally independent of the buttons to lock and unlock, which uses a different module entirely to the engine immobiliser

Thank you for clarifying that.,

So the problem is the lock/unlock circuit (not the immobiliser) although initially the key symbol wouldn't let the engine start.

Fuse is next check, but the list does not signify which one handles that part of the car, so I guess I have to take them all out and see if ones blown.

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Jumbo44

Discussion Starter · #26 · 4 mo ago

2013GV said:
If you turn the key in the door then the door lock system is functioning as the door switch in the driver's door sends a signal to the lock/unlock module. This is how the 1 turn to unlock driver 2 turns for rest is accomplished
Only but that could have died is the receiver section for the fob but that's unlikely. I'm betting it's just list programming due to a flat car battery for a long enough time.

Thanks again.

So does that mean when I lock the drivers door manually, the immobiliser is activated and working? (I notice the little blinking red light on the dash works when I do this)

Thing is, until the main dealer get back to me, I can't get it re-programmed (its been a few days now and I have phoned them twice but they don't seem in any hurry to help)

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Jumbo44

Discussion Starter · #28 · 4 mo ago

2013GV said:
The immobiliser is working as soon as the key is removed from the ignition barrel and the security module no longer detects the rfid chip in the key.

The red so called "immobiliser " light that blinks is actually activated as a fake theft deterrent by the bcm when key is removed. Its even stated in the handbook. The only way to tell the immobiliser has triggered is by the warning light on the dash when an unrecognised key is used to try to start the car.

Any decent shop with a higher end scan tool should be able to reprogram the locking function

I have a key here that I lost and then found, but recoded the car security system to remove it from memory. Opens the doors fine, but won't start the car.

That's good to know. I still don't understand why it initially did that yellow key warning for the 1st day, then suddenly it liked the key and the car started.

Weird.

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