Swift SZL 2016 Engine won't start and key fobs not working.

965 Views 28 Replies 5 Participants Last post by 2013GV, 4 mo ago

Jumbo44

Discussion Starter · 4 mo ago

Hope someone has experienced this problem as I am at a loss.

My 2016 Swift SZL's battery went flat (after very cold weather). Its already been replaced a year ago. It has been re-charged now.

One of my key fobs stopped working some time ago, and now the other one has too (weirdly at same time as car battery went flat). I changed the batteries on both keyfobs with CR1616 batteries.

The fobs do nothing when I press the buttons.

I can open the door manually.

When I start the car, it just turns over but won't start.

The car has been supper reliable and always started on first turn.

Any ideas? I'm guessing if I contact my main dealer they will charge me the earth for even looking at it.

Thank you for any help.

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2013GV

· #15 · 4 mo ago

Immobiliser has lost code for the keys. Dealer or mobile locksmith with a higher end scan tool shoukd be able to reprogram both keys.

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2013GV

· #21 · 4 mo ago

I've had Duracell button batterys unable to supply load straight out of the packet. Great volts, but no guts. Press a fob button and the volts dropped to 0

Id try different batteries, and clean the contacts in the fob with an old fashioned eraser, I find the ones on school pencils the best.

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2013GV

· #23 · 4 mo ago

No, unless its keyless start then you get a blue light when you try to start or a red if it doesn't detect the fob inside the car.
The immobiliser in a key start system, (and in the keyless start if you use the emergency key) detects the rfid chip in the key when its inserted in the ignition barrel. Theres a small antenna around the barrel assembly
Totally independent of the buttons to lock and unlock, which uses a different module entirely to the engine immobiliser

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2013GV

· #25 · 4 mo ago

If you turn the key in the door then the door lock system is functioning as the door switch in the driver's door sends a signal to the lock/unlock module. This is how the 1 turn to unlock driver 2 turns for rest is accomplished
Only but that could have died is the receiver section for the fob but that's unlikely. I'm betting it's just list programming due to a flat car battery for a long enough time.

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2013GV

· #27 · 4 mo ago

The immobiliser is working as soon as the key is removed from the ignition barrel and the security module no longer detects the rfid chip in the key.

The red so called "immobiliser " light that blinks is actually activated as a fake theft deterrent by the bcm when key is removed. Its even stated in the handbook. The only way to tell the immobiliser has triggered is by the warning light on the dash when an unrecognised key is used to try to start the car.

Any decent shop with a higher end scan tool should be able to reprogram the locking function

I have a key here that I lost and then found, but recoded the car security system to remove it from memory. Opens the doors fine, but won't start the car.

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2013GV

· #29 · 4 mo ago

Mine did that after a battery change too but I'd done other stuff with the electronicsat the same time (had abs and ecm unplugged) , I just cycled the key in, key out, open and close drivers door a few times, then it decided id inserted a valid key and started.

Strange yours has done it.

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