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Discussion Starter #1
So this is my situation..I purchased a 1.6/16v engine from a Suzuki sidekick expecting that the swap in my samurai would be easy. I am aware that I would need to get the adapter plate for the tranny bolt up. My wire harness is shot so I have modified the Sami to work as is. I have a electric Weber installed which makes it easy as I really don't need the wire harness. The question is. Can I use the Weber on the 1.6/16v aswell ? Or does this engine isolated to fuel inj only ?
Other forums I've read refer to needing the fuel inj system...please help!!!
 

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I'm a little confused...

I have a electric Weber installed
As in the type of fuel pump? :huh:

Tell us too if you were / are carburetor equipped or fuel injection and which way you are trying to configure now and with what specific fuel arrangement components.

Fuel pressure specs DO matter depending the end fuel delivery application.

The YEAR of these vehicle and donor parts will also aid us in determining your needs.

Plug your location in too, under the "User CP" panel functions.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I guess it would be considered a carburetor. It's built with an electric coil. I have a universal electric fuel pump installed. It's an 85 Suzuki samurai!
 

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It can be done but it needs some fabrication. ideally You would need an inlet manifold from a 1.6 8V carb model, the 1.3 manifold could be used but will be quite restrictive. A plate needs to be made up to go between the inlet manifold and the head to block off the injector ports. The distributor is the most difficult part because the housing needs to be modified so the distributor spins in the opposite direction, the advance curve on the 1.3 distributor won't be correct but it can be modified.
 

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Ask on suzukiclubuk.co.uk a guy on there can provide pictures. There was a thread about the conversion on difflock.com but it was many years ago. Personally I would go with the EFI.
 

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Can you attach a pic of this (carburetor?) in question? :)
Max - it's a weber carb with an electric choke.

The weber carbs can be fitted with either manual or automatic choke systems, and there are two types of automatic choke, commonly referred to as a "water" choke or an "electric" choke.

The "water choke" which requires you to flow coolant through two ports on the carb, - the warming coolant heats a bimetallic coil that opens the choke plate; the "electric choke" requires a single connection to a +12V "key hot" circuit - and uses an electric current to heat a bimetallic coil that gradually opens the choke plate.

It should be noted that the water choke opens in response to the rising engine temps, whilst the electric choke will open because the ignition is on, whether or not the engine is running.

If you really want to see what it looks like, google weber 32/36 DGEV
 

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It is so supper easy, but you are going about it wrong. I did the swap years ago.
When I got my motor I also got the 5sp (stick from the 2wd sidekick)
Pulled my motor and trans as one chunk, dropped in the new motor and shortened the half-shaft. (that little drive shaft between the trans and the transfer case). The motor mount on the... I think pas side needed the hole drilled out 1/2" up or something. And the trans mount holes drilled 1/2" back and it went in perfect. I used my existing exhaust header so no screwing with that... and I used my 1.3 intake with the Weber carb. All I had to do was grab a electric fuel pump and stick it back near the filter near the rear pas tire. I think I used my old distributor... pulled it from old motor dropped in new motor.
The sidekick trans is larger and more robust. I think the clutch is a little larger also. Oh, I did have to cut a hole for the trans shifter back a few inches because the shifter in back farther on the trans. I think I used the sheet metal from that hole to weld up the old hole. (actually a few weeks later)

No extra $ for adapters, no screwing with wires, no screwing with exhaust or intake, no screwing with new fuel lines. etc. I have the fuel pump on a simple togle switch on the dash... it's also anti-theft. Who would think to flip a switch to get it to keep running? (there are also other ideas here. some guys hook it to the seat belt light or old school floor mount high/low beam switch and stuff. yes, they will steal anything here. Or, just to a 12v key switch but add a relay.)
This of it like this... all you are swapping is the block and head and trans. (stuff in the middle.) everything else (left and right side - both manifolds) stays.
Swap was so simple I did it solo at work on a Saturday. drove it in, drove it out.
 

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The intake and exhaust from a 1.3 won't fit straight onto on a 16V.
 
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