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Hi guys, the alternator died so I bought a good second hand replacement which was sourced from a Suzuki Swift (compatible of course).
So getting the alternator out was quite difficult, had to remove the wheel, take out lower control arm bolts, pull out the drive shaft just so I could get enough room.
However, even with doing all that, the alternator only came out by a lot of force and some luck. Now the replacement alternator, while having the exact same key areas to fit such as mount points etc. the issue now is that the actual circumference of the alternator body is slightly larger than the Alto's. So I can't simply push it through the opening like I did with the Alto's alternator.
I've even tried loosening off the subframe bolts and the subframe did flex downwards somewhat but still didn't open enough to fit the alternator through.
I've even considered disassembling the alternator into its two separate main parts, putting them in the engine bay and reassembling but I can't even do that because I don't have the right tools for disassembly.
As you can see below, I'm stuck between the subframe and the engine block.
Do any mechanical guru's here know the secret to this? Thanks in advance guys.

94767
 

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yep, hoist and subframe off and an engine support stand, you can try a trolley jack with a bit of wood to support the engine and let the sub frame go on that side to get it in
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yep, hoist and subframe off and an engine support stand, you can try a trolley jack with a bit of wood to support the engine and let the sub frame go on that side to get it in
Hi mate, thanks for the reply. Just so I'm clear, if I loosen the two subframe bolts on this side and the two on the other, will the subframe come off or is there a bunch more bolts around the place?

Also, isn't the engine mounts attached to the chassis? Meaning if I loosen off the subframe it will lower and the engine will stay in place?
 

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rear mount is attached to sub frame I think, I'd have to climb under one to be sure, you will need to support the engine and remove the bolt on that side, that should give you enough room to get the alternator in.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
rear mount is attached to sub frame I think, I'd have to climb under one to be sure, you will need to support the engine and remove the bolt on that side, that should give you enough room to get the alternator in.
Thanks mate, I had a look at doing that but with my limited room and tools it just wasn't going to happen.

I took a chance and decided to swap over the voltage regular from the good alternator and it fit perfectly. I checked the brushes and they seem fine, it could be a fault with the rectifier but I didn't even think about testing that until now I've already put the alternator back in. So basically I'm still using the old alternator with a new regulator.

I'm kind of in a rush to get this back on the road so I wouldn't do such a half assed job normally but this is my last option before having to get it trucked to the nearest workshop and paying thousands.

The battery was worn down to around 50% due to the alternator going bad (the battery is only a year old and good condition still) so I'm charging up my portable jump starter and will try to start the vehicle once its ready.

If this doesn't work, I'm screwed! :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
rear mount is attached to sub frame I think, I'd have to climb under one to be sure, you will need to support the engine and remove the bolt on that side, that should give you enough room to get the alternator in.
Ok so everything back in and now it won't even start with a jumpstarter. Previously I could start the car with a jumpstarter but then when I disconnected it, the car then started drawing power from the battery.

Its strange though, I though even with a bad alternator that I could still start the car with a good battery, why wouldn't I be able to start it now? The starter motor is turning it over as normal but it doesn't seem like there is any spark being generated.

Would a completely malfunctioning alternator stop me from starting the car?

I've checked all fuses.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got the car started but has the same issue, battery not getting charge from alternator so perhaps it is the rectifier after all. I'll take out the alternator again but this time swap the rectifier over from the good alternator. I assume it will fit perfectly since the voltage regulator went straight over.
 

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Got the car started but has the same issue, battery not getting charge from alternator so perhaps it is the rectifier after all. I'll take out the alternator again but this time swap the rectifier over from the good alternator. I assume it will fit perfectly since the voltage regulator went straight over.
Have you diagnosed the alternator correctly? is the "S" terminal receiving power from the instrument panel (battery light lite)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Have you diagnosed the alternator correctly? is the "S" terminal receiving power from the instrument panel (battery light lite)
Nah mate didn't consider that. I have a multimeter, how do I test an S terminal with alternator out of vehicle?
 

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test lead at plug, make sure its getting voltage with key on.

Recifier stack won't interchange I think they are different sizes as in the new ones bigger and won't fit the old ones case, regulator and brush assembly will swap over as they are the same part number. Its quite possible the rotor has failed, they do go open circuit or short to ground meaning no output. Take it to an auto electrician and get him to diagnose it properly rather than struggle to get it in and out swapping bits and possibly wrecking the good bits by fitting them to a faulty alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
test lead at plug, make sure its getting voltage with key on.

Recifier stack won't interchange I think they are different sizes as in the new ones bigger and won't fit the old ones case, regulator and brush assembly will swap over as they are the same part number. Its quite possible the rotor has failed, they do go open circuit or short to ground meaning no output. Take it to an auto electrician and get him to diagnose it properly rather than struggle to get it in and out swapping bits and possibly wrecking the good bits by fitting them to a faulty alternator.
test lead at plug, make sure its getting voltage with key on.

Recifier stack won't interchange I think they are different sizes as in the new ones bigger and won't fit the old ones case, regulator and brush assembly will swap over as they are the same part number. Its quite possible the rotor has failed, they do go open circuit or short to ground meaning no output. Take it to an auto electrician and get him to diagnose it properly rather than struggle to get it in and out swapping bits and possibly wrecking the good bits by fitting them to a faulty alternator.
Ok so I pulled out the alternator again, returned the good voltage regulator back to the good alternator and gave it one last shot to wrestle that into the engine bay.

I figured that there would be more engine movement possible as the mounts are quite thick, I just needed enough force to flex it so I got a breaker bar and finally managed to lever the good alternator in.

All well and good but due to the alternator post being in a different position, now I'll need to get an alternator battery post extender. Once I get that, its the last hurdle before being able to connect up the replacement alternator.

At this stage I am assuming it works since I got it from a well known wreckers and it came off a Suzuki Swift with only around 50,000km on the clock. Since I had opened it to swap the regulators initially I got a good look at the slip rings and they are barely worn compared to the original alternator.

Thanks for your input so far guys, I'll let you know if the replacement alternator did the trick tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
We have lift off! So the issue was the rectifier after all.
The replacement alternator from a Swift work's great. I notice the performance is smoother and starting is much easier now so this issue must of been brewing for awhile.
I actually thought the engine might be on it's way out but it was just the dodgy alternator playing with it.
Now when I turn on the headlights or a/c, the engine doesn't labour more.
Thanks again to everyone for their advice!
 

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Yes! You now have the power. Good fix, glad you stuck with it...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well after 9 months, the second hand alternator I fitted which was from a Suzuki Swift has finally died.
The range of symptoms were battery voltage was reading too low even though definitely a good battery, poor engine running, headlights dimming and revs dropping too much when on etc.
Specifically, after testing I found the rectifier was the issue so I looked around for a new alternator from Repco but turns out they had none in Australia and they had no idea when the next shipment of stock from OEX would come in due to the virus situation. I wasn't about to pay double for one directly from Suzuki especially since they don't even make their own for these vehicles.
So back to the wreckers again, this time I got an actual Suzuki Alto alternator but my problem was figuring out how to get the current alternator out, if you remember all the trouble I had getting it in due to the casing being larger than the stock Alto one.
This time though, I came up with an idea which worked out, so essentially I removed the intake manifold and that allowed me to take out the alternator through the engine bay instead of trying to shoehorn it through a small opening between the engine and chassis like before, so much easier.
 
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