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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I started an intro a while back and asked quite a few questions and got a lot of good feedback. I have some other questions so I'll just start a project thread as I slowly and methodically turn this vehicle into my perfect hunting truck.

As a reminder, I have a 95 Tracker 2D 4x4 hardtop.

So far I've replaced both front hub bearings and lockout hubs, cleaned and adjusted the passenger window, reattached the plate that protects the clutch assembly and adjusted all the belts (no more squealing!)

I plan on fabricating a tow hitch to get what I want and I need to change the shocks but, before I do that. I have some significant lateral runout in the left wheel and I am thinking it may be a damaged hub. I will swap rotors and see if this resolves the issue but it may be only a temporary fix. I'm not getting wheel shimmy or vibration, just a 'chuffing' sound every time the rotors and pads rub at different points. Quite annoying. Anyone else deal with this issue? Is it common on these vehicles or just a problem the PO created?
 

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Maybe just a difference in terminology ...

I have some significant lateral runout in the left wheel and I am thinking it may be a damaged hub. I will swap rotors and see if this resolves the issue but it may be only a temporary fix. I'm not getting wheel shimmy or vibration, just a 'chuffing' sound every time the rotors and pads rub at different points. Quite annoying. Anyone else deal with this issue? Is it common on these vehicles or just a problem the PO created?
What do you define as "run out" and where is the evidence of this "run out" - if you had significant "run out" on the rotor, you would have either significant shimmy, or vibration, or both, especially under braking - all you seem to have is a noise.

I've had similar noises - not unusual first thing on a Monday morning after a wet weekend - moisture causes a build up of light rust on the rotor surface everywhere except where the pads were - problem disappears with in the first few hundred yards - this by the way happens with every vehicle I own.

I've also had (not on this vehicle) a heavy build up of rust over time on the very outside edge of the rotor where the pad does not contact the rotor, and as the pad wears, it will eventually come into contact with the "lip" that forms - periodic sanding of the lip (five minutes with a coarse sanding drum in a rotary tool) to remove the rust usually resolves that - I eventually put together a "Brembo big brake" solution for that vehicle and that problem never came back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Maybe just a difference in terminology ...

What do you define as "run out" and where is the evidence of this "run out" - if you had significant "run out" on the rotor, you would have either significant shimmy, or vibration, or both, especially under braking - all you seem to have is a noise.

I've had similar noises - not unusual first thing on a Monday morning after a wet weekend - moisture causes a build up of light rust on the rotor surface everywhere except where the pads were - problem disappears with in the first few hundred yards - this by the way happens with every vehicle I own.

I've also had (not on this vehicle) a heavy build up of rust over time on the very outside edge of the rotor where the pad does not contact the rotor, and as the pad wears, it will eventually come into contact with the "lip" that forms - periodic sanding of the lip (five minutes with a coarse sanding drum in a rotary tool) to remove the rust usually resolves that - I eventually put together a "Brembo big brake" solution for that vehicle and that problem never came back.
I put the dial indicator on the rotor and did the check, I don't remember the numbers but it was significantly out of specs. I plan on checking the hub to see if there is anything that is pushing one side out more than the other but I cleaned up the hub pretty well when I replaced the bearings.

I was also wondering why I wasn't getting any vibration from the steering or wheel under normal or braking conditions and just noise which, as you stated, should be an indicator.

No lip on the rotors and it is in good shape overall which indicates the car wasn't driven much or the rotor was recently changed. What I don't want to do is replace the hub or rotor if I don't need too so I will do more investigation but you can see the 'wobble' as you turn the rotor. It just doesn't track quite straight.

Now, this is with the dial indicator placed on the rotor. I plan on seeing if I can check where the lugs go through on the cap. If this is tracking straight I may just have a warped rotor. I should also be able to tell this if I swap rotors as it should move the 'chuffing' sound to the right side of the vehicle if I swap rotors.

I'm hoping to tackle it this weekend AFTER I change out the stupid freeze plugs for my son's Jeep. I have to remove the damn intake and exhaust manifold to do this though.:mad:
 

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if you can measure it with a dial indicator, it's certainly there and if it's enough to see as a wobble with the naked eye, I don't see how you can not feel it.

Another possible area to look at is the mounting surfaces - any dirt or rust on the hub face or the back of the rotor where it meets the hub can show up as run out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, it's been a while. I had a bit more to do on my son's truck, its done now, and my work schedule has been hectic with the graduation of our last class and the start of this new one.

Still haven't gotten to the rotors however, I was able to find solid door panels, new turn signal/wiper washer unit, antenna and AC vents today at pick n pull. Cost me a whopping $69.:D Considering the turn signal unit alone goes from $75 to $250 I'm happy.

So now, I have no more problem with my turn signal and I can direct the cold air at me from the AC. Since it is hotter than Hades here in VA, this is a good thing. I do need to replace the antenna and door panels but I'll get to that later this week and hopefully tackle the rotor swap as well. We'll see since their is a tropical storm heading our way!:eek: Maybe I need to move the bikes to one side of the garage so I can pull the Tracker into the other side...hmmmm.

I also need to order a set of new rear shocks but i'm in no hurry for those. Progress is slow but steady, much better than the progress on my other vehicles!<_< Say la vie.:rolleyes:
 

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Ha! I picked apart that Tracker at pick n pull last week, good to see I left you some good parts! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ha! I picked apart that Tracker at pick n pull last week, good to see I left you some good parts! ;)
There were two, the white Sidekick on the left and then a red one that was buried in the back. I pillaged the red one, I think you missed that one!:p

A guy on my street has a 4 door model that hasn't moved in months. Do you think he'd notice if parts started disappearing. :D
 

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I'm totally jealous. No pick n pull here - actually no Trackick in any junkyard (and only on or two ever seen on the road in 17 years...) I had to buy a parts car, basically from another country, and kinda sneak it in here.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm totally jealous. No pick n pull here - actually no Trackick in any junkyard (and only on or two ever seen on the road in 17 years...) I had to buy a parts car, basically from another country, and kinda sneak it in here.....
I think we get more here because these vehicles seem to be popular beach vehicles. I need to get back out and get a couple of parts that I forgot before it goes to the crusher. Minor stuff but it will complete the vehicle. Anything you need that I can pull for you?
 

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Body fenders, rear floor pan....oh, wait, postage would be ridiculous! But thanks for the offer. So far, the little parts car in my shed has been a decent enough Suzuki 'store'....;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, Pick N Pull was closed yesterday due to the bad weather. So I got out this morning and found what I needed. Got the little lock trim piece and also pulled this off the back of the Sidekick.
View attachment 34689
Ignore the mirrors and the mess; the mirrors are for my Porsche.

It's a perfect fit and exactly what I needed. Mine doesn't have this. I have two COAs that I am going to pursue on this.

1. Cut the bar and weld in a 2" receiver.

2. Cut and grind out the original bar then weld in a thicker round or square tube bar with a 2" receiver welded in .

A lot depends on the thickness of the bar metal and whether it can handle the weight of a cargo carrier on the back. I'll determine which COA I pursue once I do the initial cut to see the metal thickness.

Anyone do this before with this piece? If so, your input would be appreciated.
 

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That is just the gas tank protector, and while you will be able to weld to it, it is quite thin and will most probably not last. I imagine you can weld a thicker pipe with a tow bar on to the brackets. Or get a towbar????
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That is just the gas tank protector, and while you will be able to weld to it, it is quite thin and will most probably not last. I imagine you can weld a thicker pipe with a tow bar on to the brackets. Or get a towbar????
I thought that that was what it was but wasn't sure since my truck didn't have one. I think I'll be going to COA 2 then. The brackets look to be about a 1/4" or so which is plenty of metal. If you buy a tow bar it goes right where the protector goes so no sense wasting what I got.

I'll use the bar as a template to cut my new bar. I'll probably pick up some tube steel from my welder buddy and then mig two pieces to the 2" receiver. Measure and cut the whole assembly to size then tack weld into place with the brackets mounted so I can get it positioned right. I'll remove it then finish the weld. Grind, blast and powder coat and she should be done.:D
 

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That doesn't mount in the same way as my tow bar and those bolts look too small. Have you got some brackets coming down off the frame? My bar is a Suzuki dealer option and bolts via two threaded holes in the underside of the frame with one long bolt going up through the frame to a captive nut welded on a spreader plate.



Many towbars don't have the long bolts but the towing limits here are much higher than in the US.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That doesn't mount in the same way as my tow bar and those bolts look too small. Have you got some brackets coming down off the frame? My bar is a Suzuki dealer option and bolts via two threaded holes in the underside of the frame with one long bolt going up through the frame to a captive nut welded on a spreader plate.



Many towbars don't have the long bolts but the towing limits here are much higher than in the US.
Nice diagram! Looking at the two side bolts, they are M12 1.25pitch by 35mm which is exactly what I pulled off the sidekick in the yard. The tank protector mounting brackets don't have the center hole for the long bolt with the captive nut but I could mark, measure and drill out a hole for it. I am assuming that the captive nut is on the other side of the frame rail. At 110mm that is just under 4 1/2 inches in length. All holes are present on the frame to include the center hole.

I would wager that the additional center bolt is to add load bearing strength to the brackets to spread out the load. The diagram does not give the thread pitch for the M12 x 110mm bolt but I am thinking 1.25 as well.

If you get a chance, can you measure the distance between the top of the mounting bracket to the top of the tow bar rail? I mocked up the protector and from what I can see initially, there should be no issue with clearance for the 2" receiver that I plan to weld in but I am curious as to how much of a drop you have.

Fastenall is closed until Monday but I will run by and pick up the bolts needed based on the diagram, I am sure they will have them. I can then run them up to see if I will run into any problems with fouled threads in the frame. I can check the side holes with the existing bolts but will put in new ones once I get it all done.
 

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I won't be able to measure that for a week or so, I'm about to leave for Detroit. You may need to send me an email next weekend to remind me.
 

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Mine did mount the same way - the bolts going horizontally into the frame, rather than vertical, as in the above diagram.
 

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All of the receiver hitches I have seem in the US (all aftermarket) bolt on the same as the gas tank protector. This might be that most are the smaller 1 1/4 inch receiver or little flat bar style, they have fairly low load limits. 300lbs tongue weight. Brand new 1 1/4 receiver hitches are only about $100, and can be found used for a lot less. But the flexibility of a 2 inch receiver is hard to beat. While I have seen a few 2 inch receivers on TracKicks, they were all on universal hitches.... very ugly and lots of bolts and stuff.

On my 1992 four door I installed a 1 1/4 receiver hitch ($40 used from Craigslist) and there is enough room to bolt a 2 inch bumper mount (upside down) above the 1 1/4 inch and below the bumper.

Ultra-Tow Step Bumper Receiver – Class II, 3,500-Lb. GTW, 2in. | Custom Fit| Northern Tool + Equipment

This would give me BOTH 1 1/4 inch and 2 in receivers. I like the idea of an extra bolt shown in Rhino's diagram. (the one he posted anyway....) I would think it would be a lot more secure, but I'd still be limited to the Sidekick's weight limits anyway but could use 2 inch racks and stuff. (Like the stuff I am getting/installing on my "keeper" motorhome.)

I have not removed the hitch to add the 2 inch receiver yet as I have been working on the Sport and one of the motorhomes. It might be a while... but I have the receiver!
 

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Seeing a Tracker amongst the rest of those makes in your signature makes me proud!
 
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