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1995 Geo Tracker, USA, 1.6 L with 8V, TBI, 5 sp. manual, 2WD
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I have a 1995 Geo Tracker 2WD 4 Cylinders U 1.6L TBI SOHC, Manual Transmission. Original owner so I have all the maintenance/repair records. Engine overhaul done at 200K miles. Ran great for a couple of years after overhaul.
Started having stalling issue. Driving to work it just died, then after waiting a bit, it did start and was able to take it somewhere by reving the engine at stops. Recently replaced IAC valve and fuel filter. Vehicle starts but idle is low and stalls after a few minutes. Check engine light is on - got code with paperclip method - MAP sensor. Will be trying to check that with DMM this weekend. Other notes: white smoke from tail pipe at start though that could just be condensation. Fuel/Burning smell as well.
Recently lost my mechanic of 20 years that knew my car and kept it running inexpensively. Now trying to do things on our own.
Specifically - trying to find instructions on how to check the MAP sensor. Figure we start there. Also wondering if when we replaced the IAC valve if we needed to reset the idle or do something else.
 

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What is your DTC code, 31 or 32? Have you performed a compression test, to check the condition of the engine?
 

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99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
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The MAP runs off the manifold vacuum, when faulting the ECU defaults to run rich to guard the engine...
 

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1995 Geo Tracker, USA, 1.6 L with 8V, TBI, 5 sp. manual, 2WD
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Discussion Starter #4
code 32 - no haven't done compression test
 

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Re: 1995 FSM, engine code "U". DTC 32:
 

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1995 Geo Tracker, USA, 1.6 L with 8V, TBI, 5 sp. manual, 2WD
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
thank you. Will give it a shot. appreciate the help :)
 

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You advise that your idle is low at cold start - what is it? I didn’t download Ranger’s links above, but just in general, the MAP sensor itself rarely fails - be vigilant checking the wiring to this sensor.
 

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1995 Geo Tracker, USA, 1.6 L with 8V, TBI, 5 sp. manual, 2WD
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Discussion Starter #8
I was finally able to run the test with a multimeter as described in the attachment above for a DTC 32. Following the flowchart i got the designated voltage off both of the tests which then concludes that I should replace the MAP sensor. However, given that multiple posts here and elsewhere state the MAP sensor rarely fails, i'm hesitant.
I checked the wiring and hoses and they look good from what I can tell. I've seen other MAP sensor tests on youtube that are more substantial than what this test was. Should I go through that process? Is there any way to test the sensor itself? Seems like the test I did just checks that the wiring is providing the correct voltage. Is that conclusive enough that I just need a new MAP sensor? I failed to add to my original post that the car has 207K miles - in case that matters.
Second - a bit more background. My previous mechanic had said that he had adjusted the idle, because it was too high at start. We then replaced the IAC valve due to stalling issues. Is this just as simple of re-adjusting the idle? It's confusing because I thought the idle was purely controlled by the ECM but a book I have says there is an adjustment screw.
 

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99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
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You mechanic has misinformed you, and possibly created this issue... as well as installing questionable parts as cover..
 

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Hmm....I would tend to agree with Aqua - strange that your past mechanic says your idle is too high at cold start (it’s supposed to be, within reason of course), and then replaces the idle speed sensor because your engine is stalling (idle too low). See the problem??
The code 32 is not just because of wiring, but also can be thrown when the engine rpm is higher than 1500 rpm, but out of sync with what the TPS is indicating.
It might help if you advise what your idle does from cold start - what the immediate rpm is, whether you hear the throttle open close and drop the rpm, and what your warm idle is, etc. There are a couple of screws that will adjust the idle - one is strictly meant to be kept at the factory setting. The other is just to the right of the idle speed solenoid, normally behind a plastic cap. But before you start re-adjusting, advise your idle.
I believe that a simple way of testing whether your MAP is working, is to pull a vacuum hose when your engine is warm - it would be the function of the MAP to detect the vacuum leak and have fuel added to match the incoming air. Your idle should rev very high.
 

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1995 Geo Tracker, USA, 1.6 L with 8V, TBI, 5 sp. manual, 2WD
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Discussion Starter #11
Just to clarify that the mechanic didn’t say car was idling too high. We noticed that it was higher than it used to be prior to the rebuild. By sound/feel only, I don’t have a tach. Once it warmed up it was fine and drove great until the stalling issues started late last year. When i took it in for the stalling issues, they replaced the fuel filter and the mechanic adjusted the throttle cable (not the idle – I misspoke). They said they weren’t sure that would fix the issue and it didn’t because it stalled and died multiple times on the way home. I called them and they said they would order an IAC valve. When their shop closed they just gave me the IAC valve and we installed it ourselves.
Currently the car starts every time, idles what sounds normal at start when cold, then once it warms up, idle drops to very low (again going by sound/feel here) and that’s when it dies.
Not sure what i would need to get the RPMs without a tach. I'll check to see if i can hear the throttle.
 

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When you car starts from cold, it should rev to about 2000 rpms, which I understand will be difficult for you to ascertain without a tach. However, what should be easy to hear is a very definite drop of about 500 rpm, within 5-10 seconds of cold start. Do you hear that?
And regarding your stalling issue, when you hear the engine about to stall, are you able to save it from stalling by revving up with your gas pedal?? That would give a hint as to whether your stalling issue is fuel related or lack of spark. When it stalls, will it start right up again? And just curious, what were the issues that inspired the rebuild?? Your first post says that the car ran great for a few years after that - but you then say that the cold start idle was too high after the rebuild...????
 
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