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Took the 2012 GV 25k miles to the tire shop today, for rotation. When car came out, smartkey fob was not working either for doors or for allowing the ignition switch turn. Needed to use the manual key from the remote to start and to lock the door. The check engine light was also on. So replaced CR2032 battery on the remote, no response. Tried other remote, also no response. Am thinking this might be a blown fuse in the underdash panel so checked - but which fuse is it? No label. Also tried an ODBC2 connector for the check engine light, can't get a connection. Am thinking the two problems might be connected .... Any theories?

Have read all of the threads on remote, fobs, etc. but nothing seems like it. I mean here fobs are 100% dead, but rest of all electronics seem to work fine. Check engine light being on is annoying - not the gas cap.

Please help!
charles:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Was a blown fuse, but now the second remote not working

Took the 2012 GV 25k miles to the tire shop today, for rotation. When car came out, smartkey fob was not working either for doors or for allowing the ignition switch turn. Needed to use the manual key from the remote to start and to lock the door. The check engine light was also on. So replaced CR2032 battery on the remote, no response. Tried other remote, also no response. Am thinking this might be a blown fuse in the underdash panel so checked - but which fuse is it? No label. Also tried an ODBC2 connector for the check engine light, can't get a connection. Am thinking the two problems might be connected .... Any theories?

Have read all of the threads on remote, fobs, etc. but nothing seems like it. I mean here fobs are 100% dead, but rest of all electronics seem to work fine. Check engine light being on is annoying - not the gas cap.

Please help!
charles:eek:
Replaced the dome light fuse, and the #1 fob immediately started working. Went through the six step (lock-unlock (3.5), key out key in (4), turn key, push remote button procedure to try to reprogram the #1 & #2 fob together, but can't seem to get the #2 fob reprogrammed. Yes, changed the battery again. On doing this the red light on the fob shows communicating but no luck. Anyone?
 

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Ok, got the two programmed together by pressing and holding on step 6 for a long time the entry button on fob #2. Problem appears to be a weak signal on fob #2. Why this just started occurring with a blown fuse is beyond me. However, can anyone suggest a way to increase the fob signal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Finally, the two fobs are working!

Looked on-line for an answer & took remote #2 apart for the umpteenth time - although several times I had pushed the electrical contacts out to get better contact with the battery, that wasn't the problem. The rubberized buttons weren't aligning properly. When I took the rubber button pad out and tested the metallic under-buttons, everything worked properly. By fiddling with the rubber button pad, I got them to align better and - presto. All is right with the remote world. Dancing. But another thought - the remote wasn't allowing the car to start. So somehow, realigning the rubber button pad also realigned some other contact (other than just the buttons) and allowed the remote to be recognized within the car. Mysterious.
 
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Interesting post. My fobs will now not lock the doors but will happily unlock them? Changed the fob battery but no difference. I will take another look at the button contacts on the fob as you did.. Fingers crossed. Only one fuse so it cannot be that.

As for increasing the fobs signal, hopefully others will back me up here but years ago Jeremy Clarkson demonstrated how pressing the fob against his own temple before pressing the fob buttons worked for a huge distance further than just pointing at the car... Not sure about the science of this but I tried it and yep, it worked...

K ;)
 

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The rubber pad adjustment in the fob was the solution

Both fobs are now working perfectly for me. I don't know how the pad got out of alignment but apparently it is very sensitive. To see if it is pad alignment, take the pad out and press the metal buttons. If the metal buttons work, then its the pad/pad alignment probably.
 

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im issue having issue with mine too. The car wouldn't detect both fob, I changed then batteries and they were working again. 2 month after I changed the battery the signal was getting weak to the point I had to raise the fob next to the ignition and press the buttons on it to prompt a signal. Now it's completely dead, but my second set works still. I've always had trouble with them since day one, sometimes the key would turn and crank infinitely because the signal from the key fob would not reach. It's really frustrating.
 

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I'm having a similar problem but no blown fuses.. I'm left with a vehicle that I cannot start! even if I remove the key from the fob and incert it into the ignition.. I get a key light on the dash and it takes lots of fiddling with the key and fob.. locking and unlocking doors before it will hopefully let me turn the ignition.. I just know one day this will happen and I'll be stranded... had happen now for the third time in about a year... makes no sense at all! please help! any ideas at all.... checked all fuses and fobs have new batteries
 

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remove batteries, clean contacts with a pencil eraser (the one on the end of a pencil) and replace battery. 99% of these things get oxidation crud on the contacts not visible to the naked eye. and give the battery a wipe with some solvent like brake cleaner too.
 
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Finally, the two fobs are working!

Looked on-line for an answer & took remote #2 apart for the umpteenth time - although several times I had pushed the electrical contacts out to get better contact with the battery, that wasn't the problem. The rubberized buttons weren't aligning properly. When I took the rubber button pad out and tested the metallic under-buttons, everything worked properly. By fiddling with the rubber button pad, I got them to align better and - presto. All is right with the remote world. Dancing. But another thought - the remote wasn't allowing the car to start. So somehow, realigning the rubber button pad also realigned some other contact (other than just the buttons) and allowed the remote to be recognized within the car. Mysterious.
Thanks! This worked for me for my new-to-me GV 2013. One fob wasn't working despite a fresh battery. Opened it up and cleaned thoroughly. It worked while apart, but not when put together. Re-aligned (slightly bent up contacts) and carefully put back together and voila! Nice. I was fearing the reprogram procedure as I also have an aftermarket remote starter and did not want to "de-program" them in the process.

Funny as this is something I do every now and then with TV remotes. They get dirty and need cleaning to improve button contact.
 

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I know this is an old thread, but am hoping someone out there might be able to help.

I have two fobs, one that is working, though sometimes is a bit finicky. The other just stopped working after not being used for quite a while.
I tried all of the things recommended here...taking apart, using a pencil eraser to clean contacts, manually pressing buttons, changing batteries, etc. I cannot get my second fob (the one that was not used for months) to activate. The red led flashes, when I push it, and I've gone through the reprogramming process a couple of times and the working one gets re-programmed, but the other just won't work.

I called the local Suzuki dealer, their only suggestion was to reprogram, and thought it would be unlikely the fob just died without cause.

Note: the one working one does seem to be working a bit better after I cleaned the contacts, and realigned, buttons as suggested.

Any other suggestions? I don't want to shell out for another fob if it something that is fixable.
 

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I know this is an old thread, but am hoping someone out there might be able to help.

I have two fobs, one that is working, though sometimes is a bit finicky. The other just stopped working after not being used for quite a while.
I tried all of the things recommended here...taking apart, using a pencil eraser to clean contacts, manually pressing buttons, changing batteries, etc. I cannot get my second fob (the one that was not used for months) to activate. The red led flashes, when I push it, and I've gone through the reprogramming process a couple of times and the working one gets re-programmed, but the other just won't work.

I called the local Suzuki dealer, their only suggestion was to reprogram, and thought it would be unlikely the fob just died without cause.

Note: the one working one does seem to be working a bit better after I cleaned the contacts, and realigned, buttons as suggested.

Any other suggestions? I don't want to shell out for another fob if it something that is fixable.
Tough one. The issue i had was similar to yours but resolved after procedure. I had recently bought a used GV2013 and one unused fob was not working, but LED would light up when pressed. After taking apart, cleaning and re-aligning the case/rubber button, it worked fine....hope you figure it out...
 

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The rubber pad adjustment in the fob was the solution Both fobs are now working perfectly for me. I don't know how the pad got out of alignment but apparently it is very sensitive. To see if it is pad alignment, take the pad out and press the metal buttons. If the metal buttons work, then its the pad/pad alignment probably.
Thanks 🙏 I was having trouble with mine after replacing battery and it still wasn’t working when I read this I pushed the circuit board in the fob till it clicked and … success !
 
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