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1998 Swift 4door 1.0i Auto
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Discussion Starter · #61 · (Edited)
Just completed the install....















The rim is about 2" further from dash... Ideal, for me, as I have my seat right back. Silver 'Penny button' is Horn!
Compared to original, well >> no comparison >> this is a thinner rim and spidery, making the cabin less fussy.
I can easily see to insert key into IGN & easily monitor the Orange tell-tale for DeFogger switch.

Absolutely chuffed with how all my planning worked out... A 'turnkey' installation 🎱

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1998 Swift 4door 1.0i Auto
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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
To complement my newly 'decluttered' dash board view..... I bought this!



I am now scratching about to find the copper capilliary tube c/w appropriate ends ;)
The block should be 1/8 bspt28...?

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The block is 1/8 BSPT-28 - the tube & fittings are usually supplied with the gauge, and at least in the US, are readily available in the auto parts chain stores.

A couple of suggestions - rather than remove the low oil pressure switch and replace it with the gauge connection - fit a tee so both can be connected to the one port - it's a lot easier to see a red light turn on than it is to see a gauge slowly drop back to zero - I also want to suggest that if you can, use a braided stainless steel flex between the block and the tee - Demon Tweeks should have that, and possibly the other fittings you need - if you don't use a flex, make sure you have a couple of coiled loops in the copper line to allow for engine movement and vibration - mount the tee firmly somewhere on the body with the flex/vibration loops between that and the block.

If you miss this step, the vibration will cause the copper line to fatigue and break - not only will it make a heck of a mess, you run the risk of emptying the sump, and seizing the engine - on my Swift I had very few issues with this, but on my Vitara it was an ongoing issue until I switched to the flex, one time the brass fitting snapped off leaving the threaded portion in the block, and on the J20 engine the port is under the exhaust manifold, so removal was a challenge.
 

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Was there supposed to be a picture there - because it's not visible.

I hope it's not a tee - the last thing you want is a brass tee with sensors hanging off the side of the block - the brass WILL fatigue & break. As I said earlier, mount the tee firmly and run a flex or coiled copper between the tee and the block.
 

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1998 Swift 4door 1.0i Auto
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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
We will see..... However, I notice (across a whole slew of car makers) the oil pressure sensors are either 'flying saucer' disc shape or 'plastic pencil top' shaped. Surely a small/compact size sensor will be less stressful to 'fatigue' a Tee....?

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We will see..... However, I notice (across a whole slew of car makers) the oil pressure sensors are either 'flying saucer' disc shape or 'plastic pencil top' shaped. Surely a small/compact size sensor will be less stressful to 'fatigue' a Tee....?

OPM
The brass T will fracture with engine vibration, always use a steel one, never brass. Only brass fittings i use are the straight ones to connect the copper line to the t itself.
 
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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Been out enjoying a spot of 'post-full [stay home] lockdown' beach combing..

This is South Shields, at the mouth of the River Tyne, parked alongside one of the delightful Victorian parks it has.



Beautiful spring day :)

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Discussion Starter · #76 · (Edited)
How are folks, here, looking to E10 petrol and all rubber hose/o rings?
Suzuki are stating 'post 2008 build yr' cars are E10 compatible - my 1998 1.0i is therefore a dodgy proposition, as we go forward in time :eek:

Ahhhh...... Reprieved! (but just pay more..)

"..To ensure they [non compliant] can continue to run, the government plans to require that higher-octane ‘Super’ fuel will continue to be made to E5 standards while E10 becomes the default for ‘Premium’ grade 95 octane fuel.."

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