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Discussion Starter #1
hello, i currently have a 410 santana with 2 inch shackle lift and shock extentions (cheap way to get lift) . i am now regreting it as it doesnt give much travel and is very stiff. i want to get some more travel articulation but dont want to spend loads. does anyone have an ideas cheers

will long travel shocks help travel on my current situation

thanks
Jamie
 

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You could go to a drop shackle, but while it will give you more articulation it won't really effect your ride much.
You could go to a YJ conversion (best ride short of a coil conversion), but then you are getting pricey.
The middle ground would be a RUF conversion, where you move the rear springs to the front with a drop shackle for articulation and then you mount front CJ springs out back (with drop shackle). You can play around with the spring packs to get a smoother ride, but don't go too 'limp' or you will turn the springs into S's.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So longer shocks won't help?

I have heard u can use front and rear yj leafs on with missing links which work well , but I was woundering what else I need eg brake lines , longer shocks etc , can anyone help cheers
 

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So longer shocks won't help?

I have heard u can use front and rear yj leafs on with missing links which work well , but I was woundering what else I need eg brake lines , longer shocks etc , can anyone help cheers
Sorry, from your initial post I figured you knew you needed to go longer but were looking for additional ideas.

My trail rig is running the YJ conversion with Trail Tough Missing links and your right, it gives plenty of articulation. I am running Nissan front brake lines up front and a Suzuki fron line extension in back for the rear brakes. As for shocks, I am running Rancho adjustables out back and Deutschtecs (sp) out front. They are the longest they make. You can go much cheaper if you just get the measurements after you set up the suspension.

Once the rig is sitting the way you want, drive it into a ditch diagonally. Make sure that one set of diagonal tires are off the ground or close to it. This means the front has a wheel fully stuffed and the other wheel fully extended. The rear tires will be the same but opposite.You can then measure the full extension and compression needed of both the front and rear shocks. I would add an inch to the extension and subtract an inch from the compression as a buffer.

You can then head to a local parts store and ask to check out their catalogs to find a size shock that will fit the front specs and the back specs. For a budget build, I have picked up shocks that met my specs for as little as US$10 each...

I usually stretch out a suspension in the driveway before taking it out on the trail. This gives me an idea what the suspension will look like at the extremes.



This will also allow you to see if the lift has stretched the driveshaft fartherther than safe. You can see if you need driveshaft spacers or even longer driveshafts.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Drop shackle u mean where it's 2 inch rasised shackle the. Drops to 4 inch lift when it's needed ? Can this be used with ruf and cj springs whithoit moving the axles so bumpstops and shocks will be fine ? Cheers
 

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A 'drop shackle' is actually a two piece shackle that is one height when at rest and then 'extends' when stretching out the articulation to allow the axle to 'drop' another 4"-6" depending on the model. Rocky Road Outfitters calls theirs 'Missing Links'.


They will allow for the use of longer springs. Another style used for the YJ conversion comes from Trail Tough, and they are called 'J' shackles because of the way the shackle curls around the mount to keep the resting height low while giving a full 6" of additional droop when you need it.
Closed:


Open:


The position of the axle will completely depend on the distance from the rear spring (chassis) mount to the center mounting point on the spring. Not all springs have that center point at the actual mid-point of the spring. Putting rears up front will move the regular spring perch (on the axle housing) only about an inch forward. This will not mess up your steering geometry as long as you don't go any farther. You may have to clearance the underside of your fenders though. And if you are still running a stock front bumper you will have to trim the plastic a little where the tire comes close.

Here is a picture that shows the use of both methods (Drop Shackle and relocation bracket). Brcause it is a longer spring than you are looking to use, I needed to use both methods to keep the axle position looking semi-normal.
 

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Moving your axle back that 1" can be easier than you think. Here is a picture of a spring perch. Although this is a custom perch it gives you an idea what I am talking about.


The stock suzuki perch only has a single center mounting hole. You can drill new holes forward or back about an inch to allow the axle to be positioned forward or back as needed. You will also need to drill matching holes in the spring plate that clamps the spring to the axle.

These holes are where the center pins in the spring packs slide into.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
can i buy the kit with relocation bracket for the longer springs and the missing links to deliver to the UK as in one kit??
how much and where from cheers
 

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can i buy the kit with relocation bracket for the longer springs and the missing links to deliver to the UK as in one kit??
how much and where from cheers
I got the components from Rocky Road Outfitters. I know they ship all over the world. Contact them and tell them what you want to do. They can put the parts together for you. I have never had a problem with them.

Rocky Road

Missing Links
Missing Link extreme travel suspension system

RUF Kit
Rear spring swap (RUF) for Suzuki

Now this is for Suzuki rears and CJ fronts.

If you want a smoother ride with tons of articulation, look into the YJ conversion. It is a bolt-on but it is alot more pricey. You can find that one at Trail Tough. They also ship world-wide.
Welcome to the Trail Tough Products
 

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Discussion Starter #10
it says you shouodnt use them on the road as its unsafe ... well mine is a mild offroader and is my main car.... what sort of setup should you suggest??
 

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All of the zook vendors will have something that says the parts are for off-road use only. That comes straight from their lawyers. I have run drop shackle style lifts for over 10 years on the street and I have never had a problem.
One thing you might notice on the RRO site is where they take a nasty swipe at using a YJ/drop shackle combination... They put that in there when a competitor came up with a well engineered/well tested YJ/Drop shackle combination that took the offroad community by storm. It was (and still is) better than anything else on the market for a Samurai and RRO realized they couldn't compare. It's a dogfight world in such a small niche community.

But if you don't want to tempt it, I would suggest just going with the Calmini 2" Shackle Reverse Kit. It gives plenty of articulation for a street driven Zook while actually tightening up the steering control a little. While drop shackles are inherently looser, the shackle reverse puts the movement behind the wheel which fixes any 'rut following' a loose shackle could give you.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
are the drop shackels on ebay any good its just its from ebay and i can get it down from UK ?? can i use them with the RUF and CJ spring conversion , and where can i get RUF and kit as RRO charge me $180 to deliver it....
 

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I can't find the shackles on ebay that you are referring to, so I can't answer that one. As for the RUF kit, if you can't get the kit from RRO then make it yourself. It's just some flat stock and some grade 8 bolts. I think I have gone as far as I can in this thread. Good luck.
 
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