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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, getting the service esp light on dash. That comes with abs light, flashing traction light, flashing triangle with an exclamation.

I've run scanner and got the codes
C1044
C1075

Also B1504 which I think is seperate issue.

I've done some googles and have found plenty with similar issues and not really answers.

Battery is probably only about 8 months old.
Car sat for 4 days.

This alert seems to just stay on the dash n not go away.

Any help greatly appreciated.

2009 JT 2.4 5 speed.
 

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C1044 is right rear speed sensor
C1075 is steering angle sensor calibration incomplete
B1504 is a random one ill have to check the service manual but its not part of the bigger issue.

Clear the codes and see what cones back.

You could have a faulty sensor, dirty abs ring or broken wire to the right rear.

The steering angle sensor can be historic from the battery change this is why I want you to clear the codes, drive and see what comes back. It takes 200 metres in a straight line to clear this code IF the wheel speed sensors are all good. If the wheel speed sensor is giving false data then you will still get a steering angle sensor code this dies nit mean the steering sensor us faulty

Once you have current codes, monitor the wheel speed sensors in real time and determine if its a sensor dropping out, or a constant different speed from the right rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cleared the codes. 1075 gone. But others still remain.
Went for a bit of a drive.
No problems. For a day. Now it's back again. Interestingly enough. Won't show dash error until you take your foot off the brake after starting.


Battery isn't all that old. Is there a chance of it being a dud?
Just seems strange to me to go a day without the warning.
I'll have a little more time on the weekend to suss out the wheel sensor.

Thanks for your help man.
 

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Irs possible battery volts are down when cranking, below about 10.5 and you'll be in triggering the abs warnings territory. Charge the battery and see what happens.

If you have an intermittent wheel sensor or a bad connection then its possible to go days or weeks without it happening. My first thought would be to remove the sensor from the hub, clean the hole and gently clean the sensor. While you have that corner up in the air, rotate the hub and look down the sensor mounting hole and check the tone wheel for any bits of crud between the teeth, re fit, plug back in and see what happens
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Irs possible battery volts are down when cranking, below about 10.5 and you'll be in triggering the abs warnings territory. Charge the battery and see what happens.

If you have an intermittent wheel sensor or a bad connection then its possible to go days or weeks without it happening. My first thought would be to remove the sensor from the hub, clean the hole and gently clean the sensor. While you have that corner up in the air, rotate the hub and look down the sensor mounting hole and check the tone wheel for any bits of crud between the teeth, re fit, plug back in and see what happens
Had a chance to test the battery over weekend. Still showing plenty of volts. So think that's OK. I might see if I can try another battery for confirmation though. I don't have access or the funds for a charger at present.

Wheel off, sensor out and cleaned. Was a little rusty in and around. Like a light powdery rust.

Still getting the codes, but haven't had a chance on a lengthy drive since the clean.

Should I be sussing out other speed sensors? Or is there anything else that I might be able to so myself?
I'm going to try source another car scanner app. As mine doesn't show wheel movement.
 

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Cranking volts is what you need to check, not sitting there doing nothing volts.

Your code is right rear, so I suspect the other corners are ok.
 
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I had the same problem a while ago turned out to be the battery.
I bought one of the bluetooth battery monitors BM2 module off eBay , eventually found the voltage was dipping below 9.5v on crank , usually in the cold weather or after standing for a while. Good bit of kit as it allows you to set warnings for low voltage and works when my GV is parked outside and I'm inside
 

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Ditto...Our GV likes to eat its Battery every 3 years like clock work. Every time this has happened the Service ESP light comes on during cranking and stays on.

Put the meter on the Batt and got the wife to crank it and yep it went down to around 9 volts.

They don't seem to make batteries like they used to.
 

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Ditto...Our GV likes to eat its Battery every 3 years like clock work. Every time this has happened the Service ESP light comes on during cranking and stays on.

Put the meter on the Batt and got the wife to crank it and yep it went down to around 9 volts.

They don't seem to make batteries like they used to.
fit a big CCA rating (650 from memory) N50 size, not the recommended only just big enough battery. We get 5 to 7 years out of them in the ones at work.
 
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The last one i put in was a 650CCA when it failed last year. I'll see how it goes. But it has so far died on year 3,6,9 on the dot. The service ESP light came on just outta warranty and it took the dealer over a week to work out it was the Battery at the time...from what i was told they ended up asking Suzuki after getting no where and they told them to check the cranking voltage....it was a relief to just have to get a new battery as opposed to a new ESP module!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Getting down to 10.8v on cranking guys. That enough to cause the issue?

Noting here, that if I start the car with my foot brake on, the alert doesn't come up until I remove my foot. Also ran a code scan while foot was on for no code, until my foot was removed.

Seems odd that this has only happened since the car was parked up for 4 days.
Mrs also borrowed it for a few days where she drives 45 mins to get to work.
Interestingly on a short night drive I got no alert, but it was back the next day without the traction control alert on dash (only abs). But he has since returned.

Strange issue.
 

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Getting down to 10.8v on cranking guys. That enough to cause the issue?

Noting here, that if I start the car with my foot brake on, the alert doesn't come up until I remove my foot. Also ran a code scan while foot was on for no code, until my foot was removed.

Seems odd that this has only happened since the car was parked up for 4 days.
Mrs also borrowed it for a few days where she drives 45 mins to get to work.
Interestingly on a short night drive I got no alert, but it was back the next day without the traction control alert on dash (only abs). But he has since returned.

Strange issue.
Brake light fuse blown? Just curious. What codes are still coming up?
 

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I fitted a YUASA 249 EA954 battery these are 800 CCA rated, I had to modify the battery tray but the battery fitted in the opening no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Brake light fuse blown? Just curious. What codes are still coming up?
Tail lights are still working.
At last check it was the same 3 codes. I took the battery off again for an hour to try clear codes.

B1504 I believe is because I have a dash mat over that sensor.
So really just the 1044 solenoid that's the worry.


I might try swapping some fuses around and see if it makes a difference at all.
 

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C 1044 is right rear sensor, monitor it in real time with a scan tool and see if its dropping out, if it is, check connections, you have already cleaned the tone wheel? blown it out with compressed air?

might require a new sensor. i'd have to check, not sure f left and right rears interchange or not, if they do, swap and see if code transfers.

and shift may or cut a hole for the sun load sensor, that will get the HVAC unit working properly.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks mate. I'm just running elm obd2 scanner through my phone. Any tips for an app to use? Preferably free one?
Didn't hit him with compressed air. Just a bit of sensor safe electric cleaner can. Same with the barrel it sits in.
I might try the swap around. Would assume they are the same.

It really doesn't bother me not having traction control or abs. I'm use to old cars. Just the damn warning on the dash that doesn't go away.
 

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Torque is always a good app

Give the tone ring a decent clean out, if you have a bit if crud between a tooth on it as the wheel rotates the sensor doesn't see the gap
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Torque is always a good app

Give the tone ring a decent clean out, if you have a bit if crud between a tooth on it as the wheel rotates the sensor doesn't see the gap
What you recon for cleaning that? Degreaser and a brush? I'll suss this app out and let you know how I go.
 

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What you recon for cleaning that? Degreaser and a brush? I'll suss this app out and let you know how I go.
I just blow comoressed medium pressure air down the sensor hole and rotate the wheel to blow out the dust and bits of dirt. Don't go nuts, just make sure its clear of any debris. If you need to brake cleaner and a brush, 90% of the time air is enough.
 
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Discussion Starter #20
99866


So I'm starting to think it's the actual abs unit.
This is the codes with both left and right pulled. After a clean n put back together. Trying codes all the way.
 
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