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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone. I'm on my 3rd Esteem as of last month. This one had 5 speed manual SE5F-A transmission. The transmission is making a metallic rubbing and scraping noise when driving especially in 1, 2 and 3rd gears (replaced clutch kit - not the throwout bearing). I've read online it's something to do with bolts inside falling of or loosening and 5th gear plate starts rubbing on the gear itself.

My question - has anyone done this repair and can provide some guidance or pics? Maybe there's already a thread with the repairs someone can point me to? (otherwise I'll start one here and post pics as I go once I start the project).

Thanks to all.

1998 Suzuki Esteem GL Wagon 1.6 5 speed manual
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Been gathering some info on this.
These threads talk about the plate screws backing off or breaking which makes the plate rub on the 5th gear.

I think I narrowed this down to the screws on the case plate as on the attached picture. This should be all accessible by removing the pressed steel cover at the drivers side of the transmission. I'm going to check this on my vehicle and report back.
94995

94996
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's what this left case plate looks like and that's what should be making all the rubbing noise:
94997
94998
 

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yep, its the bearing retainer plate and if you don't locktite those screws in, they back out, rub on 5th and create metallic grinding paste leading to bearing and gear failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I appreciate your comment 2013GV. Looks like removing the transmission mount on the drivers side opens the whole area there for work. I'll need to pull the 5th gear off the shaft to access those screws. After the problem is fixed, I'll probably need to flush the transmission a few times somehow to make sure i remove all the metallic grinding paste out.
 

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I appreciate your comment 2013GV. Looks like removing the transmission mount on the drivers side opens the whole area there for work. I'll need to pull the 5th gear off the shaft to access those screws. After the problem is fixed, I'll probably need to flush the transmission a few times somehow to make sure i remove all the metallic grinding paste out.
you won't be doing the work with the transmission in the car. Theres a high likelihood you will have selector rods to deal with and 5th gear rear bearing issues as well to deal with, along with excessive end float caused by the plate not being in place properly. The fact you mention scraping in 1, 2, 3 and not 5th suggests this plate MAY be the issue, it could just as easily be the lay shaft with too much end float due to a worn thrust washer.
Much easier and more sensible to do this on the bench where you can get gear pullers and such like in to place to remove all the components "outboard" of the centre case to get to the screws and the plate. Watch the 5th gear syncro hub, they do pop apart and will send the springs and balls flying. These are a lot easier removed and assembled on the bench. You would be well advised to totally strip the box and rebuild based on what you find faulty.
 

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Anyone can advise where can I buy one of this plate and the six screws? Mine is cracked and damaged, and 4 screws' head sheared off.
95096
 

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I am sure the fasteners can be sourced locally from a supplier, the plate can be Tig welded and milled.

Most probably cheaper and sooner than sourcing Suzuki OEM
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I googled Suzuki left case plate and some options came up:
It looks like the Suzuki part number is
24725-65G00-000
This one is on Ebay ships from Japan says OEM:

Maybe also just calling the closest Suzuki Dealership with the VIN number or this part number will do.

How in the heck did it crack like that?! I haven't opened mine up, but will probably end up replacing as well. Don't think welding it is a good idea. Thanks for posting that picture Aquanaut.
 

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How in the heck did it crack like that?! I haven't opened mine up, but will probably end up replacing as well. Don't think welding it is a good idea. Thanks for posting that picture Aquanaut.
they crack due to the screws coming loose and end float stressing the plate.

Welding, especially TIG will actually be stronger than the base steel if the correct filler rod is used. Absolutely nothing wrong with welding it, have done it on many similar things.
 

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We sorted out this part quandary earlier in another thread... ;)
 
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