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Discussion Starter #1
I have several questions on the SPOA lift that I'm currently doing to my Samurai, which I bought from Rocky Road:

  1. The garage that is doing the lift made a terrible mistake and cut off my lower OE spring perches; he didn't realize that the new perches will be resting against it. What do you suggest?
  2. There is quite a big gap between the new perches and the axle housing (the type that wraps around the axle housing and rests on the orginal perches) is that normal?
  3. The lower rear shockmounts are an angle piece of steel and the shock stud. Where exactly is this angle supposed to weld?
Any quick help is highly appreciated.
 

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- The garage that is doing the lift made a terrible mistake and cut off my lower OE spring perches; he didn't realize that the new perches will be resting against it. What do you suggest?
How hard is it to find another axle housing where you are? It would be easier than trying to fix what they cut off. The whole reason for the design of the perches you bought are to relieve the stress that welding the perches directly to the axle housing can cause. Otherwise I would add a half sleeve of thicker tube to the exhisting axle housing were the new perches would go and then weld the perches to it. The axle housing is very thin, it needs something to strengthen it. They cut off the part that makes the perch do that.

- There is quite a big gap between the new perches and the axle housing (the type that wraps around the axle housing and rests on the orginal perches) is that normal?
You should have a pair for the rear axle that look exactly alike. Then there sould be a large and a small perch for the front. Small perch fits over the drivers side and large fits over the strengthening plate on the passenger side. Since the guy already cut off the original pads, there should be no gap. With the perches still in place - sometimes they make the arms a little too long and old you have to trim them a little to get the perches to fit flat down on the axle housing.

- The lower rear shockmounts are an angle piece of steel and the shock stud. Where exactly is this angle supposed to weld?
The mount attaches to the axle at the rear and bottom of the tube. This is about an inch or so to the inside of the perch (towards the diff).

(pic now working...)

Here is an old article from iZook that can give you a more in-depth feel for the installation:
RROR Spoa
 

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Wow that sucks! I have a Breeze industries kit that doesn't rely on the lower perches that seems to work good. I don't know if it is cheaper to get their kit now instead of monkeying around? They are in Canada so your dollar is stronger and you would get it for a good deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks guys for the help. I'm really angry at that shop; they just went and cut off the U-bolt pads and the lower OE perches. Fortunately I caught him before he does the same for the rear axle, so the rear is fine. The front one only is hurt. Here's a picture of the damaged housing.

Fortunately, I found two full Samurai Chassis' lying on the floor of the workshop, which include axles, diffs, transfer case, springs, and shocks. I'll ask him to give me the front axle housing of one of them. I hope he agrees, he has to pay for his mistake.

How hard is it to find another axle housing where you are? It would be easier than trying to fix what they cut off. The whole reason for the design of the perches you bought are to relieve the stress that welding the perches directly to the axle housing can cause. Otherwise I would add a half sleeve of thicker tube to the exhisting axle housing were the new perches would go and then weld the perches to it. The axle housing is very thin, it needs something to strengthen it. They cut off the part that makes the perch do that.



You should have a pair for the rear axle that look exactly alike. Then there sould be a large and a small perch for the front. Small perch fits over the drivers side and large fits over the strengthening plate on the passenger side. Since the guy already cut off the original pads, there should be no gap. With the perches still in place - sometimes they make the arms a little too long and old you have to trim them a little to get the perches to fit flat down on the axle housing.



The mount attaches to the axle at the rear and bottom of the tube. This is about an inch or so to the inside of the perch (towards the diff).

(pic now working...)

Here is an old article from iZook that can give you a more in-depth feel for the installation:
RROR Spoa
Ah, now I see the picture (wasn't showing when I first opened the thread). Ok, now it's clear, thank you Bill.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow that sucks! I have a Breeze industries kit that doesn't rely on the lower perches that seems to work good. I don't know if it is cheaper to get their kit now instead of monkeying around? They are in Canada so your dollar is stronger and you would get it for a good deal.

It will work if you don't push your vehicle to its limits. But if you do, my opinion is that it will damage the housing. It is the cheaper solution. And I've already bought this kit, no point of changing it now.
 

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Here's a picture of the damaged housing.
I have used many of the RRO perch sets because I like how they work. But to be completely honest, the first time I installed one I did almost the same thing. This is a case of not knowing the equipment before you install it. In my case I didn't cut off the perches, I cut off the stock strengthening plate that is on the top of the axle housing. This caused larger gaps when I tried to fit the new perches in position. The RRO perches are made to fit over the extra metal.

 

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I still have my lower perches and trust me I do push mine to it's limits......and beyond! :D

He should give you a new housing since he screwed up. Good luck and happy wheeling.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have used many of the RRO perch sets because I like how they work. But to be completely honest, the first time I installed one I did almost the same thing. This is a case of not knowing the equipment before you install it. In my case I didn't cut off the perches, I cut off the stock strengthening plate that is on the top of the axle housing. This caused larger gaps when I tried to fit the new perches in position. The RRO perches are made to fit over the extra metal.

So what did you do? Did you put them back on? Or fabricated a different one?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, good news, the workshop manager gave me his axle that was lying on the floor of his workshop. So the mistake has been undone. I wasn't sure whether the ring and pinion ratios are the same, so I swapped out the whole differential.
 

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Ok, good news, the workshop manager gave me his axle that was lying on the floor of his workshop. So the mistake has been undone. I wasn't sure whether the ring and pinion ratios are the same, so I swapped out the whole differential.
Good to hear he made it right.
R&P for the 413/Samurai was always 3.73:1 so you shouldn't have any worries there, but it was probably a good decision because you never know what condition his diff was in.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, some more questions on the SPOA:

  1. I tested the lower rear shock mount (angular) on the rear axle, while the shock stud is pointing to the end of the car and as close to where the U-bolts are supposed to be as possible, as the installation manual instructs; there's a break line bracket weldid at that exact position. Looks like I need to push it a little towards the inside of the car to clear the break fluid line mounting point. What should I do now?
  2. The rear upper shock mounts, what is the orientation of it? It bolts on to the OE rear upper shock studs, so the steel plate should be against the cross member or opposite to it? I presume against the cross member, righ?
  3. The upper new shock studs, should they point backwards or forwards? I presume backwards, right?
 

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Ok, some more questions on the SPOA:

  1. I tested the lower rear shock mount (angular) on the rear axle, while the shock stud is pointing to the end of the car and as close to where the U-bolts are supposed to be as possible, as the installation manual instructs; there's a break line bracket weldid at that exact position. Looks like I need to push it a little towards the inside of the car to clear the break fluid line mounting point. What should I do now?
  2. The rear upper shock mounts, what is the orientation of it? It bolts on to the OE rear upper shock studs, so the steel plate should be against the cross member or opposite to it? I presume against the cross member, righ?
  3. The upper new shock studs, should they point backwards or forwards? I presume backwards, right?
- You can move the shock mount an inch or so if you need to miss the brake line tab. The important part is that the shock is place in a way that does not allow the it to come close enough to the brake line to damage it.

- The rear shock is normally bolted directly to a crossmember that is above and slightly to the rear of the rear axle. You want the top part of the shock to stay as close to that crossmember as possible. I haven't seen their upper mount in a long time, so I don't know what they are shipping lately. But from the past version, I would bolt the bracket to the original bolts and then bolt the shocks to the new mounts. Post a pic if it doesn't sound right.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
- You can move the shock mount an inch or so if you need to miss the brake line tab. The important part is that the shock is place in a way that does not allow the it to come close enough to the brake line to damage it.

- The rear shock is normally bolted directly to a crossmember that is above and slightly to the rear of the rear axle. You want the top part of the shock to stay as close to that crossmember as possible. I haven't seen their upper mount in a long time, so I don't know what they are shipping lately. But from the past version, I would bolt the bracket to the original bolts and then bolt the shocks to the new mounts. Post a pic if it doesn't sound right.
Sounds perfectly right. I'll try to get a picture today.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi Bill,

Finally I got my SPOA lift in place. Most things seem to be ok, but I do have a couple of concerns.
  1. The left front break line, because being so long, rubs against the wheel at full lock. (see picture)
  2. The front left corner OE U-bolts turned out to be too short. They are the only ones that turned to be too short, all other three corners were perfect.
  3. The steering arm didn't fit properly into the front right wheel hub, so the technician used cardbord paper as a gasket to make up for the extra space. (see picture)
Also, a look at the car after lifting it. I got the 6.5:1 gears, still haven't installed them yet. That's going to be next. I also got the Lockright locker for the rear diff. Decided not to do it for the front, as per your advice, since my front diff has only one pin and two spider gears, rather than three pins and four spider gears, and because I'm still using the OE axles, which are pretty weak for 33" tires and lockers.
 

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First of all, the lift looks perfect with those tires. Good job.

The brake lines are an easy fix. You can use a small bungee or stretchy spring to pull the center of the line (at the metal part) back towards the frame. This lets the wheel articulate but pulls it back when the tire stuffs in.

The u-bolts are always longer for that corner because of the way the center chunk is pushed to the side. If they sent you four pairs that were the same then you have a phone call to make.

I am not sure what happened with the drag link, you may want to send some pix to the vendor and ask what went wrong. I always use the approach "what did I do wrong?" and they will either tell you, or they will realize their mistake and make it up to you. This is what makes customer service so important in this business.

Your next step should be looking into some bumpers that will compliment the tires and ride height.

Remember, the addiction never takes a break!:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
First of all, the lift looks perfect with those tires. Good job.

The brake lines are an easy fix. You can use a small bungee or stretchy spring to pull the center of the line (at the metal part) back towards the frame. This lets the wheel articulate but pulls it back when the tire stuffs in.

The u-bolts are always longer for that corner because of the way the center chunk is pushed to the side. If they sent you four pairs that were the same then you have a phone call to make.

I am not sure what happened with the drag link, you may want to send some pix to the vendor and ask what went wrong. I always use the approach "what did I do wrong?" and they will either tell you, or they will realize their mistake and make it up to you. This is what makes customer service so important in this business.

Your next step should be looking into some bumpers that will compliment the tires and ride height.

Remember, the addiction never takes a break!:cool:

Oh no! No body warned me this was addictive :eek:

Actually, RRO (where I got my lift) did not ship any U-bolts with the kit. They said the original U-bolts will fit and there is no need for new ones. They were right for three corners, but not for the driver's corner. The right side is the one that is usually larger than the rest, but the left side is not so large, it should have worked out.

Drag link ... is that what its called? I'll contact them to see what can be done about this.

BTW Bill, what did you do about making clearance for the large tires? I cut off a part of the OE bumper, but the rear side of the wheel well is still sticking out a little; the wheel doesn't rub against it in a normal situation, but I reckon it will while flexing. I still trimmed the rear side of the wheel well where the spot welds are made in the sheet metal, to make more space, but I'm worried it isn't enough.

About the bumper, I have ordered an ARB winch bar, and it's on it's way from Australia now by sea freight. I expect to get it within one month.
You can use a small bungee or stretchy spring to pull the center of the line (at the metal part) back towards the frame.
I didn't understand how will this work. Where can you buy such thing?
 

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Take a rubber mallot and beat the wheelwell back a bit to give the tire more room. You can also use the mallot on the inner edge of the fender to keep the tire from grabbing it. I will take a picture of the spring I used for my brake lines when I get home tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Take a rubber mallot and beat the wheelwell back a bit to give the tire more room. You can also use the mallot on the inner edge of the fender to keep the tire from grabbing it. I will take a picture of the spring I used for my brake lines when I get home tonight.
That would be great bill, thanks.
 

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hey. alternator. your sammie looke great. i hope mine will look that good someday just a quick question. how much work did it take to do your lift?. and what axle pads did you use. the weld on ones. or the ones that kind of clip on?
 
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