Suzuki Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have an 88 samurai. I would like to know if samurai's come stock with a weber carb, because mine has it. also what (cheap or used) leaf springs can i use on the front for a possible lift and also as a needed replacement. thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
No, Webers are not stock, nor are they Smog legal; if you're state has that kinda stuff. From the factory, Samurai's come with a Hatachi (sp) carb.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
well i think that my leaf springs are (besides broke on the front pass side) worn out to. they sit about flat and i know that they should have some sort of arch to them. could i use cj springs all the way around? please give me some details to this
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,862 Posts
Going RUF/CJ includes using a drop shackle in the rear and maybe in the front depending on how you do it. But using a CJ spring up front will make the spring stick out way beyond what you want unless you start thinking about 33" tires... here is a shot of that setup with 32's.


and here is how you do it...
Going Long - CJ Spring Packs Up Front

If you stick with zook rears up in front, you would need to lose the overload spring and take the #2 leaf from the front packs and add them into the rear packs. This gives you a little more flex while keeping the strength.

Remember that Samurai springs were designed to start/rest in a flat configuration, not like the arched springs you see on lifted spring suspensions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
whats kinda funny is that i aready have 33's on it. thanks to the cheap shackle lift and a sawzall. so now i found some used stock leaf springs to replace the broken ones and i figured maybe some add-a-leafs all around would lift it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,862 Posts
whats kinda funny is that i aready have 33's on it. thanks to the cheap shackle lift and a sawzall. so now i found some used stock leaf springs to replace the broken ones and i figured maybe some add-a-leafs all around would lift it.
One word of caution... Lightweight Samurai + add-a-leafs = paintshaker...
Really stiff suspension.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I am going to get my replacement leafs friday, and from what i understand i can basicly combine different leafs to give it back an arch and thus lifting it to. hopefully its works out good. and i also just modified my doors so that they are removable. these's suzuki's are cooler than jeeps
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,862 Posts
I am going to get my replacement leafs friday, and from what i understand i can basicly combine different leafs to give it back an arch and thus lifting it to. hopefully its works out good. and i also just modified my doors so that they are removable. these's suzuki's are cooler than jeeps
Yup. That is what I did to get a good tight (and lifted) suspension for the 31's. It cornered like it was bolted to the center line.
OME/Stock/CJ front leaf combo

Stance - iZook
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Man you bring back memories! Might I also suggest a body lift, the parts can be fabbed up at a local metals shop and the bolts can be purchased at a local hardware store. Just remember to remove the brake line bolt that holds it to the body when lifting the body! (Learned that the hard way, and the lines, providing they are not to old will be easy to adjust to fit without harming the system.

Use grade 8 bolts as well with locktite.


Mod:D

I dig around and look for some picks of my old sammys, on hardtop (steel) and 2 converts.


A spring flip, now that's talking. Did the removable doors too to all of them as well.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,862 Posts
Man you bring back memories! Might I also suggest a body lift, the parts can be fabbed up at a local metals shop and the bolts can be purchased at a local hardware store. Just remember to remove the brake line bolt that holds it to the body when lifting the body!
Also make sure you support the body at all 22 points and not just at the bolt pucks... otherwise your body will start to sag and any metal that has had any rust damage will tear apart.
There was a thread on body lifts earlier this month... I am gonna copy and past instead of just writing it all over again..

"You may want to reconsider your plans. Save a little and then do a RUF (rears up front) conversion, and then stick a set of front CJ packs in the rear. That will get you almost 2" of lift and you won't get laughed at. Let me explain.

A 1" body lift will give you a little tire clearance but more important it will give you room under the hood to put in a 1.6 (taller block). The outward appearance doesn't look too out of the ordinary.

A 2" body lift starts to look hokey unless you use some kind of flap that covers the space between the frame and the body. It starts to get tight at the hoses, brake lines and wiring as you lift the body. You will also have less movement clearance for the shifters as they may contact the body openings. It also makes the shifters drop down into the holes (the body rises, but not the shifters).

A 3" body lift can look very silly if that is the only lift you are using. Larger body gaps, longer hoses, lines and spliced wiring, and now a huge gap between the bottom of the grill and the front bumper. Don't even want to think about the shifters...

And with any of these body lifts, if you don't find a kit that includes pieces to support all 22 body mount positions then you run the risk of bending/warping/punching through the 8 points that most vendors DO support. If the body has any rust, then forget it, it won't stay supported offroad.
As you can tell, I am not a fan of body lifts, but I do realize that there are good reasons to use them, i.e. making room for an engine that would otherwise require a hood scoop, or going to an engine/tranny combo with a larger tranny that won't fit in the stock tunnel, etc.

I just wouldn't recommend one in place of a decent (safe) suspension lift."
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top