Suzuki Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
1987 tintop sammy electric oem fan wont kick on ???checked inline fuse at starter area and its ok do you think it is the fan thermal switch at thermostat area????is one the oil temp sensor and the other the fan temp switch...allready checked fan and it runs strong wired direct thanks.:huh:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,190 Posts
I could be wrong, but I don't think Suzuki put an electric fan on the Samurai - I will verify this from the parts catalog in the morning. As far as I know they all had a belt driven fan mounted on the water pump although, depending on the market, there may or may not be a viscous clutch between the two.

If I'm right, you'd have to figure out how the particular set up on your vehicle is wired and then troubleshoot it - you know the the fan works, so now you have to figure out how it's wired - and you need to know that not everyone wires the electric fan to a thermo switch.

There is no oil temperature sensor on a Samurai, and as far as I know, no fan switch on the thermostat housing - there is a gauge sender and I believe a second sensor that controls the choke.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
thanks i cant beleive they didnt use a oem fan especially on a AC sammy but maybe so,but doesnt the thermostat have to communicate with something to tell fan to kick on i have seen whats called a engine coolant fan temp switch so where is that located and wouldnt that be what allows fan to kick on and off!!! ALL my wireing seems oem too for the most part!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Hi there Highpockets,

Based on your description, it seems that the problems lies with the thermo switch. I assume you are referring to the fan behind the radiator(?). Same response with fordem as that I've never heard of stock electric fans on an 87 model Sammy.

My friend encountered the same problem with his electric fan and finally changed his thermo switch. He used a thermo switch from a 90's model toyota corolla. It fixed the problem.

Hope this helps!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,230 Posts
there were a few samurais equipped with factory A/C. not terribly common. I know that the aftermarket AC units send a signal to the high idle compenstor when running. Perhapse if equipped with an electric fan it opperates off of the same signal being sent to the Idle-up vacuum switch. I'm not familiar with the factory AC so I can't offer much advice other than to check the high idle signal and make sure it's working with the ac on. If there is a seperate electric fan for the A/C system then it should be on whenever the A/C is used, regardless of engine coolant temp.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,190 Posts
thanks i cant beleive they didnt use a oem fan especially on a AC sammy but maybe so,but doesnt the thermostat have to communicate with something to tell fan to kick on i have seen whats called a engine coolant fan temp switch so where is that located and wouldnt that be what allows fan to kick on and off!!! ALL my wireing seems oem too for the most part!
Where is the fan you're asking about? In front or the radiator or behind it?

From the parts catalog Samurais never came with electric radiator fans.

If the Samurai has factory a/c, there will be an electric fan for the a/c, and that will be mounted to the a/c condensor which will be in front of the radiator, and there will also be the standard mechanical cooling fan on the front of the water pump.

The a/c fan is not there to cool the engine and is not wired to the engine's cooling system, it's there to dissipate the heat from the a/c system and is controlled by the a/c amplifier, and will run in sync with a/c compressor.

On most factory a/c systems, there will be a temp sensor that connects to the a/c amplifier that will shutdown the a/c system if the engine overheats, and this may also activate the condenser fan.

You now need to figure out whether you're looking at an aftermarket engine fan, or the a/c fan (essentially does the vehicle have a/c) and then determine if the fan is working as it should and then troubleshoot it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
thanks has factory ac but not hooked up,and yes the fan is on the front outside of the vehicle so your telling me that it would only be needed for the ac system and was put there for that purpose....if thats the case then what to do about engine getting to hot i have a new brand new engine and weber carb that runs great but after driveing it for a while it just gets to hot and the overflow radiator bottle spews out fluid....clutch fan seems fine and it pures like a sowing machine so what would you guys suggest me doing to remedie this????
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,190 Posts
thanks has factory ac but not hooked up,and yes the fan is on the front outside of the vehicle so your telling me that it would only be needed for the ac system and was put there for that purpose...
Exactly!!

if thats the case then what to do about engine getting to hot i have a new brand new engine and weber carb that runs great but after driveing it for a while it just gets to hot and the overflow radiator bottle spews out fluid....clutch fan seems fine and it pures like a sowing machine so what would you guys suggest me doing to remedie this????
You have a problem that needs to be identified & fixed.

Stock radiator should be ample cooling for a stock engine provided it's clean & not clogged - and this has nothing to do with rust - when last was that one cleaned? What condition are the hoses in? Waterpump? Radiator cap? How do you know the clutch fan is fine?

Where did you get a brand new engine from? Do you mean a remanufactured engine? Is it the same size as the original? Who did the work? Who jetted the weber? Is the timing correctly set? What thermostat is in it? Was the head retorqued after the first thousand or so miles - if not the head gasket could be gone.

There are many, many possible causes for overheating and you'll need to check them all.

Try to identify when (what conditions) the overheat occurs - when stationary & idling, in heavy traffic, uphill towing, highway speeds, etc. - as this information can usually be used to pin point problem areas.

As an example - a stock radiator in good condition can handle the heat output of the stock engine at highway speed with no fan, depending only on the forward motion of the vehicle to force air through the radiator - if your engine were overheating under these conditions, the problem would either be more heat than normal (lean mixture, incorrect timing) or less cooling than normal (insufficent coolant flow caused by hoses, pump, radiator).

Another example - an engine that overheats in traffic and parked & idling, but not at highway speeds would point to insufficient air flow through the radiator - which point to a failing clutch fan.

One more thing - define "spews out fluid" - is it boiling over or is it overflowing?

It's normal when the engine heats up to have expansion and fluid being transferred to the overflow bottle (it's actually an expansion tank), and what is supposed to happen is that when the engine cools, the fluid is drawn back into the cooling system - but - a defective radiator cap can hold pressure and allow the expansion but not the return.

Caps are cheap and easy to change, so if your's isn't new or nearly new, and you're not having a violent boil over, change it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,299 Posts
Given that its a brand new engine then I would suspect that you have an airlock in the cooling system. The easiest fix that I've found is to run the engine with the rad cap off and the heater on. Keep an eye on the coolant level, when the thermostat opens you should see the coolant level drop as the air comes up.
If that doesn't fix it and you don't see inrush indicating that the thermostat has opened then the thermostat may need replacing. If the thermostat seems OK then I'd get a leak down test done to check that the new engine is good
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
hmm well i put new thermostat in and its not working its way up fast at all to hot but when headlights or heater is turned on the rpms drop alittle and it starts heating up again pretty hot so now what?need the headlights and heater so does it have to do with the alternator being weak and not putting out enough volts and causing engine to run at a lower rpm or is it the way my weber carb is jetted just had it professionally put in and checked at suzuki!!thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
alternator being weak and not putting out enough volts and causing engine to run at a lower rpm or is it the way my weber carb is jetted just had it professionally put in and checked at suzuki!!thanks
Hi there Highpockets,

Not sure if this is the same case as yours but I probably have the same configuration as you in terms of fans. I have A/C and radiator fans (both electric). At high speeds or high RPMs, the temp would go up to the 3/4 mark and almost reach the redline. I had my radiator overhauled and even the water pump was checked. Eventually I accidentally solved the problem of my overheating when I switched to a bigger capacity alternator (90amps). Apparently, I was encountering what you suspected and the electric fan wasn't being powered adequately so I'd overheat whenever going uphill and running at high RPMs. After replacing the alternator, I never encountered the overheats again.

Hope this helps!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
well I think it solved but not totally sure yet but seems temp guauge is holding correctlly when my assessories are on ,and guess what it appears to be a BAD GROUND or in my case there was no ground wire connected from the engine to the fire wall but there was one hanging there but nothing to attatch it to engine so i got a ground strap and cleaned surfaces to metal and whala it appears at the moment that my engine never overheated at all it was just a overfilled overflow and no ground to engine when the new engine was installed,CRAZY but googled it on off-road.com SAMURAI OVERHEATING and there was a guy who had the same problem. Time will tell as i drive it more.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,190 Posts
A missing ground can cause an erratic guage, but, it's not going to cause fluid to "spew" from the overflow bottle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
yea but bottle was overfilled a ways so i think it just came out of the overflow tube and went towards the back plus i never heard the water boiling in radiator eradically so hopefully this was the problem,clutch fan is good and put new thermostat in,rad cap ,and water pump is working and my engine idles at 800-900 rpm so i think im good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
WELL I FEEL LIKE A *** it was the fan clutch that is bad i guess when it heats up it doesnt ingage - its already replaced BIG DIFFERENCE-just glad that it wasnt warmer out hear in arkansas and nothing else happened thank GOD! Thanks i should of just looked for the most obviouse!!!
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top