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Discussion Starter #1
My samurai, 1988 1.3L manual, is strictly for the mud. Never sees the road. I trailer it everywhere. So was wondering how i can take all the junk off the carb to make it a lot simpler. Somebody said that the wires and computer can go.

Really looking for detailed names and instructions on what can be taken off the car/carb.

Thanks in advance.
 

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i dont recomend you mess with it. fix it wich is not hard or replace it with a webber from ebay got great prices. i got a 87 and i ajusted the air fuel mixture screw but you need to lift up from the manifold a lil to get out the pin in the way then you can adjust it a lil better and get a new o2 sensor wich are cheap 20.00 bucks and tie the choke butter fly out open thats what i did and it runs great get 40mpg on highway. and runs70 plus but i dont need or go any faster bcuz the jeep it sef aint safe any faster.the rebuid kit is cheap too and easy.but i guess in your case being for fun only then get a manual choke weber and a set of pace setter headers from ebay and your good.both are good for 30 hp and better gas milage then stock mani and stock carb.
 

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I've helped strip two down so they are almost as clean as a weber just start disconecting shit temporaly and plugging the lines if the engine won't start afterwards reconnect they can be stripped pretty bare though
 

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oh ps the weber setup with pacesetter head me and my buddy ran that setup and it was only good for 20mpg alot more power but alot less fuel economy and you have to rotate the carb 180 degrees if you don't want to die going up anything greater than a 15 degree incline.......I'ld still recomend it though
 

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icalbert101 -
you said stripping down the carb and plugging some points . question does that have any affect on performance and im having carb troubles with running very rich . could i possibly have something unplugged that the carb is compensating for or someone adjusted to compensate without knowing the air leak?
how hard is it to turn the weber 180degrees if i decide to swap carbs and use for offroad
 

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when it comes to the stock carb pretty much any thing you take off/disable will have a negative affect on your performance or fuel mileage. To simplify things get a Weber you have to be going up a pretty steep incline before it starts giving you problems so try it out before you turn it around but you can turn it around with out much of a problem all you have to do is reroute your fuel line and throttle cable once you have the weber in your hand you can probably figure it out.

Another option is to go to propane. It will cost more to convert it than the weber will but the lower fuel cost will pay for the conversion over time.
Many companies make bolt on propane conversion kits but none of them I have seen come with the tank sense you are going to be off road a lot you can use a forklift tank one will fit in the bed area of the samurai but you will have remove the back seat there is not enough room underneath for one.

Your mileage with propane will drop some but the power is similar the the weber (the kit I got has better throttle response than the weber) plus a motor running on propane can run at any angle even upside-down (except you won't get any oil to the motor) ALL carbs will have problems if you get them on to steep an incline, they have float bowls think about it.
 

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so i figured out that my carb problems was a mix between too tight of a throttle cable someone had it so tight could of played it like an instrument. and a mixture screw underneath where the bracket that holds the throttle cable was out of wack making the idle rev to like 2,000 rpm. i got my idle down to about 1,200 or 1,000 once warmed up and it runs great as long as you dont drive it as soon as i take it out on the road and get above 3rd gear i get a feeling of not enough gas and too much air(it starts bucking and like choking). i've checked for vaccume leaks but with this thing i can't tell where half the hoses go. any easy way to check for leaks and any way to increase the fuel mixture?
thanks btw also my timing was way off because of the throttle cable being so tight, does anyone know what is a good timing for this is right now im running about 5 degrees. (without vacumme advance) thanks sorry to hijack thread but also looking at using stock carb with limited vacumm hoses
 

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I am running the stock carb, and am very impressed with it. As a carb, it is the closest one I've seen to fuel injection. Everything has to be well adjusted and the hoses have to be in good shape and routed correctly though. If everything is properly adjusted and functional, then the computer will regulate the mixture, assuming the computer is working, and the O2 sensor.

There really isn't an easy way to make sure it is right, except to drop it off to a mechanic who knows how to work on it. Finding a mechanic who can work on the carb could be difficult though... The factory service manual has an extensive section on adjusting the carb.
Ack's FAQ Samurai 1988 Factory Service Manual FSM

Here is a page dealing with the hoses;
Ack's FAQ Samurai SJ-413 Carburetor Vacuum Line Maintenance
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Man people swear by putting the weber carb on it. So i gave it a try with my samurai and now I see why they swear by it. Took and hour to install and it rids all of the mysterious vacuum lines. Weber carb has one vacuum line, bolts right on, starts right up and had to make no adjustments. You can find this carb on Ebay for about $260. Best money I ever spent.
 
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