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Discussion Starter #1
Guys - wife wants to lift her little sammy up about 2" and I am looking
at a reverse shackle lift. My question is by going up only 2" is the shocks
the only thing on the sammy that will need to be changed out????
I want to keep this down to a min on things to change on the sammy.
I see 2" rev shackel kits from $89 to several $$ hundreds. What to keep cost
down so which one yall recommend for this task.

thanks in advance and any advice is greatly appreach.

Its a 1989 4x4 stock Samurai.
 

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because of the angle that shackles sit, 2" extended shackles will only lift the sammy (roughly) one inch. if you have the money, suspension lift kits are WELL worth it for both onroad and offroad performance as it (generally) is softer than the nearly 20 year old stock parts. but theyre about $1500 for a decent one here in aus, completely fitted. im not sure how much body lifts are, or how they affect the handling of the car, but it is a way cheaper option to lift the car.

2" lift is high enough to get 31" tires (have heard of blokes getting 32's under there with just a 2" lift) with the proper offset rims or wheel spacers...
 

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the 2" shackle reverse isn't just a 2" longer shackle, It's a re-curved spring and the shackle hinges on the back instead of the front, and the front of the springs are on fixed hangers. The 2" indicates the total amount of lift. That being said, you will need a drop pitman arm and extended brake lines. You shouldn't need a drive shaft spacer or extended spline shaft... I have a 5 inch reverse shackle lift and never really needed a longer drive shaft... untill my shock mount busted off an my axel went to full droop. Limiting straps or a good panhard will illiminate that.
 

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because of the angle that shackles sit, 2" extended shackles will only lift the sammy (roughly) one inch. if you have the money, suspension lift kits are WELL worth it for both onroad and offroad performance as it (generally) is softer than the nearly 20 year old stock parts. but theyre about $1500 for a decent one here in aus, completely fitted. im not sure how much body lifts are, or how they affect the handling of the car, but it is a way cheaper option to lift the car.

2" lift is high enough to get 31" tires (have heard of blokes getting 32's under there with just a 2" lift) with the proper offset rims or wheel spacers...
Well worth the $$. This is a Trailmaster suspension and includes the re-radiused springs, gas filled shocks, dropped pitman, transfer case mounts, shackels, urethane bushings and sway bar mounts. Softer ride, more travel and better offroad capability. Looking at about a 3" lift over stock.



 

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the 2" shackle reverse isn't just a 2" longer shackle, It's a re-curved spring and the shackle hinges on the back instead of the front, and the front of the springs are on fixed hangers. The 2" indicates the total amount of lift.
ahh, ok... ive never really looked into this at all... when a site says 2" extended shackle, do they mean it lifts the car 2", or is that only the case with this shackle reverse kit?...

sorry redbrand, i fed u false info...
 

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a 2" extended shackle is just a shackle that's 2" longer. A 2" extended shackle lift is a 2" lift using extended shackles that are usually 4 or 5 inches longer than the stock shackle. A lot of places use misleading terms though to describe their product and it can get confusing.

With a reverse shackle lift kit there's usually a lot more to it than just putting your shackles on the back and your hangers on the front. Usually a longer hanger is used to keep the geometry of the suspension the same and the shackle used has a different shape to it. Some shackle reverses use the high anchor for the front shackle as the hanger for the spring and you have to weld or shim your perches on the axle at the right angle to adjust the caster angle properly.
 

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...and remember in general a flat spring will give a smother ride than a high arched spring.
Then you have the spring angles, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys for all of the replies.
Like I thought - just rev shackles - requires more items that need attention
once its lifted up, makes sense. But on E bay and other sites they only show the simple shackles and like that is all is required, but more is required to make it right.
I have seen the Trailblazer and Cal. kits asking for alot more money and for good reason.
 

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OK, I have reread the thread and I'm not sure we are all talking the same thing. I checked ebay for "shackle reverse" and only see one that doesn't include springs, but is $280 for shackle brackets and such, for a '81-85. I've not used one but the only thing I would foresee is the shocks. It doesn't say if it moves the axle at all. If it doesn't move it the drive shafts should be fine. However I would do a 'driveway test' before leaving for a offroad trip. Put the suspension in full twist, full droop, etc. and see how much shaft is still in the spine.
As others have said if you have the money, go for the real lift kit. If money is really that tight and you can't fab what you need, go for a (unpopular) body lift. They are simple as snot to install, don't require shocks or anything because it doesn't change the suspension, it only gives more wheel well room for larger rubbers.
If you can fab (cut, weld, etc.) the sky is the limit, all on the cheap.
Now, you understand if all you want is the thing 2" higher, if you go from the stock 26" rubbers to a 30" you have your 2" rise. Most p235X75R15's are about 29" tall. Put on a simple longer shackle (not reverse) for another inch or so and you should be fine. Those shackles would be about $50.
Remember if you do a real full lift _and_ go larger rubber you may get more than she wants in rise.
 

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when he said 2" reverse shackle lift, I'm assuming he's running new springs. You can't lift it 2 inches just with reversing the shackle on stock springs. The front tower/fangs would have to be like 4" lower than they are now!

remember that with shackle reverse, the drive shaft extends when drooped and shortens when compressed. To get an idea of how much drive shaft you will have, drop the side with the pumpkin as far as it will go and see how much spline you have left in the shaft. The shocks should prevent the axel from dropping too low unless you use an extended shock mount and a long travel shock. The long travel shock wouldn't be a bad thing, just get a spacer to compensate for the extra travel, and make sure your brake lines are long enough.

Like I mentioned, my drive shaft was fine untill my lower shock mounts busted and the axel was completely unloaded. It drooped enough to barely pull the spline clear, and when my front end landed, the front half jammed against back half and pushed my T-case back so that the shift knob popped out when it hit the edge of the hole in the tub. It could have been a lot worse, I got lucky, but my problem was stressed shock mounts, probably from having shocks that were too stubby for the lift and they bottomed out too much. (thanks calmini)
 
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