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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
New to the forum so hello to all. I just got a 88 JX Sammi and the clutch assy was making noise so I figured. Here's what was happening:
1. Let out on the clutch pedal in neutral and the vehicle felt like it bumped slightly forward.
2. The noise would go away when pedal was pushed in.
3. Shifted fine when still or moving.
4. Developed a quick scratching or scraping sound while moving forward or rolling down the road but, was intermitant sounded sorta like the parking brake pad was lightly rubbing a rotor but not constant.
5. Moved the vehicle a short distance and heard the short scratch and then made a hard bang sound and didn't want to move in gear or lurched when attempted.
6. Placed in neutral and could pushed it off the trail.
7. Looked underneath at the driveline and all was tight and secure I.E. drive shafts and u joints. Nothing leaking.
8. Vehicle was not in 4x4 use.
9. Engine runs great no issues there.
10. Brakes were released or park brake was off.

I'm guessing the clutch came apart in pieces. Pedal was not real stiff or hard to start. Any ideas?

Thank you in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's not the release (throw-out) bearing. It's the tranny. :(
I enquired about this issue with a trans mechanic at a GMC dealer and was really reputable. In fact I see him every Friday. He said if it was making noise when the clutch pedal is up it's most likely the tranny. The action of the clutch assy when pushed in would make a noise. He believes it's in the front of the tranny and not the ouput end.

Well, off to locate a 5 spd tranny w/ clutch assy. that's ready to go and not a shot in the dark one.

Thanks for the response about this situation and will report what findings I run into. :eek:
 

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that is true.... i didnt read the whole story you had wrote. but either way you have to take it down and repalcing the clutch will be a throw out bearing and pilot bearing to replace. in the same time you can check the tranny too for play on the shafts if you do have play then rebuild the tranny if not it was just the throwout bearing.also change all the ggear oils in the transfer case and diffs while your at it too and the tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm going to inspect the Sammi again today (visual only). Is it a possibility the transfer could be the culprit too? Just trying to narrow it down before hauling it in to civilization to break it down.
I'm still wondering what the hard bang noise was or where it was coming from directly under the seat area. Some say the bearing on the front trans shaft came loose or broke causing it to hit hard making the noise.

I'm guessing nobody here has ever had that issue before to report on.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
After detailed investigation I found the issue.
The shaft to the rear chunk was sloppy. I could move the whole axle by lifting and pulling the shaft up or down. The one part of the shaft that should slide in and out where a boot was evidently hasn't been greased and didn't move causing a bind at the chunk thus loosening up the backend. The pinion nut has came loose as it's sloppy when pulled on from the shaft. I'm hoping I can retighten the pinion nut, grease the shaft and tighten all U bolts on the springs. Any idea what the torque in inch lbs the pinion nut needs to be? Any other helpful ideas on this major adjustment I'm about to perform?
Thanks in advance.
 

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Although you could just tighten down the pinion nut and be done with it, there is probably some damage done already inside. Those gears have to be set precisely to work right without destroying each other. The loose pinion can damage the gears, bearings and seal. If you have driven like this for a while, I would rebuild the diff after checking the gears. The crush sleeve inside is not a reusable item... So once the pinion is torqued down (and the crush sleeve 'crushed') then the setting is good until something happens to that torque. After that the crush sleeve needs to be replaced when setting it up again. If you have never set up a differential before, get someone with experiance (and the right tools) to help you learn - or get it done by a professional.
Sorry, not an easy answer.
:rolleyes:
 

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+1

Bill you are spot on! ;)

I think that the pinion BEARING is shot, thus requiring all that you mentioned for a proper diff set-up and any sort of rear end quiet operation and longevity of repair.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Although you could just tighten down the pinion nut and be done with it, there is probably some damage done already inside. Those gears have to be set precisely to work right without destroying each other. The loose pinion can damage the gears, bearings and seal. If you have driven like this for a while, I would rebuild the diff after checking the gears. The crush sleeve inside is not a reusable item... So once the pinion is torqued down (and the crush sleeve 'crushed') then the setting is good until something happens to that torque. After that the crush sleeve needs to be replaced when setting it up again. If you have never set up a differential before, get someone with experiance (and the right tools) to help you learn - or get it done by a professional.
Sorry, not an easy answer.
:rolleyes:
I figured it would be more than tightening the nut and be on your way. I read about the crush sleeve and figured a new one was in order. I have access to every kind of mechanic out there and know the ones with the right skill and knowledge to do the job. I'm sure after hearing it bang twice in a short distance and then stopping didn't help internal matters out any.
I'll make inquiries with the mechs and go from there. Any ideas where to get a the gears n pinion to replace the whole thing?
Thanks for the information also.
 

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The easiest way is to just Pick up another center chunk from a junkyard. I know that the regular vendors may have reconditioned ones in stock also ( Petroworks, Trailtough, Low Range Offroad, etc)
Then it's just plug any play so to speak. There may also be others close to you that might have an extra in the garage, I know of at least one in my garage I keep tripping over. When you abuse these things like we do it always pays to keep one or two stashed away. Shipping is the only killer, these things are heavy!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Although you could just tighten down the pinion nut and be done with it, there is probably some damage done already inside. Those gears have to be set precisely to work right without destroying each other. The loose pinion can damage the gears, bearings and seal. If you have driven like this for a while, I would rebuild the diff after checking the gears. The crush sleeve inside is not a reusable item... So once the pinion is torqued down (and the crush sleeve 'crushed') then the setting is good until something happens to that torque. After that the crush sleeve needs to be replaced when setting it up again. If you have never set up a differential before, get someone with experiance (and the right tools) to help you learn - or get it done by a professional.
Sorry, not an easy answer.
:rolleyes:
After further info I found on the one time use crush sleeve I figured a rebuild in the chunk might be necessary. Thanks for all your information as it was very helpful.
I have a master tech on trans and rear ends on hand for the repair. He said he might have a Geo tracker or side kick we can get the whole rear end out of. He wasn't 100% sure if they'd fit or not. Any ideas if they would or are certain years different? The Zuki is a 1988 and the other 2 are yet to be determined. Don't know the price of those axles but my tech said he'd do it all for $100.00. I'd probably give him more but atleast it's a start.
 

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Unfortunately the Track/Kick rear chunk won't fit.
Here is a pic of three axles. The Sammy axle is in back, the Track/Kick axle is in the center and the Spidertrax 'Sidewinder' is out front. This was from a conversion I did on the trail rig. You will notice that the size of the Track/Kick carrier is much larger. The R&P is also larger.
 

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Also forgot to add:
None of the Track/Kicks ran a 3.73:1 gear ratio to match your front end.

Now if you want to go a bit deeper, there is a hybrid rear axle out on the market that uses the T/K center. And if you pull a matching set of gears for the front you could move up in tire size without losing any torque...
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Guess I'll have to just rebuild the old unless I can find one locally. I found a dealer that has them but would be $600.00 including shipping. Yikes!
Any good places to get a rear end rebuild kit at a decent price?

Thanks for the excellent pics and information your extremely helpful!

Thanks in advance.
 

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Easy answer: No, not a bolt on.
The Samurai axle is not as wide as the T/K axle.
The Samurai uses leaf springs, T/K uses coils - different mounts (see pic above)
The gearing will not match, so you would have to upgrade the front axle before putting it in 4wd

Custom answer: It can be done if you want to pay the guy alot more and buy alot more parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The junk yards close to me didn't have any Sammi's or parts for them.
Let me ask in question format so I'm in step with you.

1. Chunk internals can be replaced.
2. Multiple parts to do so (undoubtly).

The pics were great to compare to and understand the differences. What do you suggest putting in account the used items are non exsistant here?

I'm in Columbus, GA

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hope my answers aren't behind yours.
I'm scratching my head on that chunk on ebay.
I'm not really familliar with this rear end assy so bear with the dummy questions.
That chunk is looking at it from the drive shaft view correct?
If so I see only a portion of the axle housing on one side?
I think I need a picture description on the whole deal I guess as I'm not familliar with the repair procedures or rebuilding one. Sorry.

Thank you in advance.
 
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