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Discussion Starter #1
I just Acquired a free samurai but the only quirk is that it does not run... I put a battery in it. New 4 gauge battery terminals for both postive and negative. I have full interior power and as well as lights and radio. When i turn the key with the clutch in the starter only clicks. The motor is not seized. I pulled the starter and took it to the local auto parts store and they said it had a bad solonoid. 80 bucks later and a reman starter and it still clicks. I searched and found the sammy starter click fix. Did this with a fuse and relay. still nothin... What could be wrong? Does anyone have any ideas? Help is appreciated!! Thanks
Ken
 

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I'd start with a known new / good battery, and double check your battery connections INCLUDING where they ultimately tie in to. Any and all engine and battery GROUND connections are super important too as far as having good contact.

Checking each and every FUSE is not a bad idea either on a vehicle just acquired, and you are trying to rid any demons. ;)
 

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I hear ya' Larry, but he says
The motor is not seized.
^_^

Sammy. One other thing you can try is to by-pass all starter control circuit wires and components by using a jumper wire (12+ off the battery) directly to the light gauge wire (spade) post on the solenoid. Make sure you've got her out of gear before you try it though. ;)
 

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Also check the heavy white wire that goes to the positive terminal on the battery. It is a fusable link, so it may LOOK normal but could still be fried inside.
Also, see if adding a new ground strap from frame to engine helps...
There is a small (too small in my opinion) wire at the firewall almost behind the battery that acts as a ground strap. It is easy to miss. When the engine can't find a decent ground it will use the clutch cable as a ground. This will eventually lead to the shielding melting and the clutch cable failing.
 

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Lots of things to check. I'm thinking that the fusible link is OK 'cause you have radio power but, here it is anyway.

On my rig it's a short green wire. When installing a larger alternator, it's commonly and easily overloaded when charging a low battery and gets blown open, but it's hard to tell by looking, until you tug on the ends and they readily pull apart ('cause the wire inside is blown).

You can easily check voltages with an inexpensive voltmeter like HarborFreight items #90899 or #92020, often on sale. When you turn the key to start, the voltage at the starter solenoid-to-its-case should be about the same as the battery. If you have a bad ground strap somewhere, you'll see the voltage drop a lot, so much that the starter cannot crank, and just clicks. The ground straps are exposed somewhat and susceptible to corrosion and physical damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well i tested the motor by placing a ratchet on the crank. the mtor turns over fine. All fuses are good. I assume the fusible link is good because i have power. if it was blown i would assume there would be no power. I see no ground straps except the negative on the battery. I will try to add a nice 4 gauge from some old amp wire. I tried to over ride the ignition to only get the same clicking from the solonoid. The only thing i can think of is to push start it. The sammi has sat for many months so i hate to do that. The reman starter might be bad so i will have it tested. There is a cable that looks like a throttle cable coming from the firewall that it not attached to anything. I thought it was for the throttle or cruise. but the throttle is hooked up and it has no cruise. Any help? I will look in the haynes book. Thanks for all help here guys! I hope she will start soon.
Ken
 

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Look at the battery where it meets the firewall. Pull the battery away a little and you will see a small screw that grounds the wire at the firewall. It is near the right/top corner (away from the fender) of the battery. In this old pic you can see it with a blue wire attached just above the battery.


The other 'throttle' cable could be one of two things. It the previous owner had a thumb throttle installed on the shifter, he/she may have left the cable there after removing it.

It could also be a manual choke. From the factory, our zooks have a water choke, but sometimes when folks install a weber that doesn't have a water choke, or a CV carb it needs a manual choke cable run back to the dash.
 

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On a Sammi, does the NEG battery cable attach to the engine? :huh:

If not, yeah...do the new engine ground cable thing.

You can do the same thing if you connect a jumper cable from the battery NEG to clean metal (ground) on the engine proper. Better yet, right to the starter case. ;)

If THAT fails, then ya', with all you've tried thus far, you've got a starter or solenoid issue still (if the battery is good)!
 

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Then the same jumper cable trick to the frame and / or firewall would be a quick ground check / test. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I found out that the cable is for the choke... I ran a 4 gauge ground wire from the frame to side of the block. I think this should be a good enough ground. And my battery is still charged. if this doesn't work i will have to take the starter back out i gues.. Thanks again guys!
Ken
 

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I ran a 4 gauge ground wire from the frame to side of the block
Should it have been run from the FIREWALL (or inner fender) to the block instead?

The electrical circuit can be disrupted by the body and drive train RUBBER mounts if you choose the frame. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Okay changed the ground wire location to the side of the block to the inner fender well where i mounted the electric fuel pump on the driver side. Good news. She fired first try. Never even hesitated and she runs well. Nice and smooth idle! Thanks a lot everyone for your help!!!!!!
Ken
 

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... changed the ground wire location to the side of the block to the inner fender well.... fired first try.... Ken
The high starting current from the battery (+) to the starter must _RETURN_ from the starter case to the battery (-) as well. Steel (iron) is a poor conductor of electricity. It works, when it does, because there is a lot of it.
On my Zuk, the big black ground cable runs from the battery (-) to the starter case/block. But the chassis needs to have a good return path back to the battery too (!), although the other currents are a lot less than the starter current.
I do not yet know how the block gets connected to the chassis. The little wire from batt (-) doesn't seem big enough. Seems like there should be an engine-body ground strap. Tinned braid is usually used for that. I'm still looking for mine.
 
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