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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I fixed the starting problem thanks to you guys and I hope you can do it again. Now that it runs I have other issues. I searched and found a ton of posts on it but I have never found a solution. Here goes...
When I start it 2003 Tracker 2wd 4dr 2.0 engine auto.
it runs at 1100 rpms and within seconds it slows down to 850-870. I read that is what I want to see. I turn on the A/C and it speeds up 200 rpms and settles out smoothly. If I put it in gear the rpms drop to 700-750 and vibrates badly. Runs real smooth at 800+ and drives real smooth no hesitation doesnt skip a beat. Idle is another matter. I read and tried many of the tests and when I turned the wheel the rpms were slow to increase but did. I then removed the IAC motor and the end was carbon city. I cleaned it and cleaned the seat inside the TB and it runs very smooth but will not increase idle to 850 as its supposed to. I tried to adjust idle as many did but the PCM corrects it so that did not work.
I know this is a big issue and I need to fix it. My wife wont drive it fearful something will fall off and kill her.
BTW when I bought it it just got new motor mounts so someone was trying to fix the same thing.
It has a new EGR too so it seems many of the fixes were done.
Can anyone offer any other help.
BTW I dont have a bluetooth dongle so I cant get live stats but I do have a Actron CP9150 that will give me a load out of PID's if they help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Wow no one has run into this? I want to fix this right but I guess I can add shimstock on the tab at the TPS to raise the rpm's a little. Not really the way I wanted to get this done but I guess it has to do.
 

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What's actually "vibrating badly"? I wouldn't have thought the idle being at 700-750RPM would cause major problems? :confused:

Is there something loose sounding that's making a vibrating noise, or is the engine struggling and sounding like it's going to stall?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
heah david the gm service guide wants 850 in gear and if it drops to 700 or so it is too low making the engine struggle. There are a ton of posts about this trouble and after reading for hours I never saw a fix. I added a pce of shimstock to the stop on the TPS arm which brought the idle up and almost eliminated the vibration but now I m getting a code idle too high so this makes me think its a software issue that can only be fixed by GM unless someone else can add something.
 

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The most obvious thing to suggest would be that you've still got IAC valve problems.

How high is the idle to be getting the "idle too high" code? Are you checking the idle speed with something other than the car's dash tacho - which won't be very accurate? I was thinking perhaps the code is from the TPS not returning a valid value when the throttle is closed (from the shim holding it open.)

I can think of various ways you could bypass air past the throttle butterfly (without shimming the butterfly open), but fixing the source would be best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
David sorry for the delay
Yes I have a scanner and checked the rpm's. I did see that thread and I did most of what was stated. Before I got this someone had already replaced engine mounts, fuel filter, egr, I replaced the CPS and spark plugs.
I cleaned the IAC but it did not help. I see tons of these complaints online with no solution. If the motor mounts are replaced and it still vibrates there is no solution. I would change the IAC but the best price I can find is $350 and that is too much just to try.
Is there a sure way to tell if the IAC is at fault? The rpms do increase when the a/c is turned on but they dont increase when the wheel is turned. I checked battery voltage at idle its 14.5 and upon throttle up it goes as high as 16 for a brief second then levels out 15 or less. I have noticed the dash gauge lights pulse including the clock on the radio. It gets brighter than dims and keeps doing that all the time.
I am at the point I want to sell this thing but still want to fix it before I do.
Could it be TC or tranny mounts? Only happens in gear at idle gets worse with a/c engaged. If I add throttle goes away in an instant. Has to be in the idle circuit. The lights pulsing do it at high rpms or idle so that cant be related because at higher rpms it is smooth.
This is driving me nuts
Any suggestions?
 

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I checked battery voltage at idle its 14.5 and upon throttle up it goes as high as 16 for a brief second then levels out 15 or less. I have noticed the dash gauge lights pulse including the clock on the radio. It gets brighter than dims and keeps doing that all the time. The lights pulsing do it at high rpms or idle so that cant be related because at higher rpms it is smooth.
Try searching for the pulsing lights- that's also a common thing (alternator/ regulator maybe, I can't remember?) Even 15 volts is too high an output- a spike of 16 is really bad. :eek:

Perhaps try sorting that problem and then see what happens with the idle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi David
Yes I saw that thread, I actually spent hours reading threads and other postings on this very same issue. It seems to be a very common problem. Yet for the most part I have never seen any real clear cut answer for a fix. I did order a used IAC valve and will see if that fixes it. When I turn the ac on it increases rpms by maybe 50 but no rpm increase when the wheel is turned. The rpms are just too low causing the engine to lug which causes the vibration.
My fingers and toes are crossed the IAC replacement will fix it.
Do you know the proper way to test the IAC. I have no clue if this used one is any good. It would help if I could test it to be sure I am going in the right direction.:(
 

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99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
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I had the pulsating light issue several yrs ago...
Finally used a recording lab scope and narrowed it to an internal short in the battery... even though it passed all the normal tests..

Replaced battery, no issue for last 3 yrs...

... Philip
 

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Philip, did you have 15 - 16 volts? Something's very wrong there and will cause battery failure sooner or later.
 

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Philip, did you have 15 - 16 volts? Something's very wrong there and will cause battery failure sooner or later.
That high a reading is not good for the battery and may be an indicator of internal failure..

I would recommend the use of a known good battery to check the state of charge..the battery load signals the alternator regulator.. A high resistance on the exciter wire could also send the regulator to run open (high charge)...

... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Hi all
Ok the battery, it settles down to 14.8 and seems to maintain that. It was 15 at fast idle when first started and when revved it did 16 for a split second. It settled down to 14.8 as it idled down. Was monitoring it with a battery analyzer. (Analog type)
I am way in on this car now with all the money I had to throw at it. New tires,brakes all around, plugs,ac work, cam position sensor, and the list continues. Its time to stop the bleeding so I hope to find the idle trouble . I may be wrong but I dont think the battery is causing the idle issue and sell this before it kills me.
I got that good used IAC motor today and its junk. The old one at least tried to idle it up but this one does nothing. Rpms dropped to 500 and lower and would not rise at all. Put the old one back on and its trying but just does not get the idle there where it needs to be.
So my friend who works on everything decides to look at the TPS. He pulled the plug and said the engine should do crazy stuff like stall or rev or something. It did nothing. He pulled the tps off while plugged in and moved the throttle by hand and he said the tps did not move. He said it should have tried to adjust for the hi throttle at idle but it did nothing. I am not versed on this sensor and would like your opinion on it since it cost $200 locally to buy it new.
How do I test this. He feels it could be causing the trouble but I feel its not the idle issue. Could be another problem rearing its ugly head but I would like to know how to test it. He wants me to buy another but I like to be as sure as possible before I just keep buying stuff to try.
Any suggestions?

Thanks
 

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Yes, sadly secondhand parts are never a good option. Are you able to return it?

You should be able to check out the TPS with a multimeter. Usually they're a variable resistor and some might have some open/ closed contacts to indicate the throttle being closed. I've pulled them apart/ cleaned them with good results on other vehicles.

I would have expected something to happen when it was disconnected - at least a check engine light on the dash?

I'll have a quick look in the service manual and see if there's anything on testing them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the test info. I tested the TPS and yep its out of spec so I ordered a new one. The listed Chevy part at the local parts store is from $177-240 if you can imagine it. I was able to get a new one from Amazon for $16 delivered. I am sure its Chinese but I got the Cam sensor this way and it works fine.
I tested the IAC that I just got and it tests good. I cant figure it unless the TPS is causing the issue. With this replacement IAC it idles at 500 and never picks up when you turn the AC on or put it in gear. With the current IAC it at least idles at 700 rpm and does not go up when the AC is turned on or when in gear.
I am totally confused here but I will wait until I get the new TPS before trying anything else.
Thanks for your help. I will post back when I get the TPS. Should be next week.

Thanks
 

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That IAC test only checks out the electrical side of the valve. You've also got the "mechanical" side of the it - ie. the valve itself opening and closing. Luckily the TPS is purely electrical, so if that fails then you know it's no good.

You could have tried spraying some electrical cleaner into the old TPS (while operating it) to flush it out. I've done that before on a different vehicle and it fixed it. (It depends on how well the TPS is sealed as to whether that might work or not.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hi David
I don't have a second person right now to check the function of the IAC. It does move when connected but I am not able to do the test outlined in the pdf until I get a second set of hands to help. Hope to do that in a few days. I will post back with results.

Thanks
 
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