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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I was thinking the other day, rotating my tires - which have manual locking hubs - won't be as simple as a normal car. I can't just rotate the front tires to the back. So I'm guessing the tires will have to be removed from the wheels entirely and then reinstall onto different wheels.

Does anyone know if this is an extra charge? If yes, how much?
 

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Why would you think that?
 

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Free wheeling hubs have no impact on tire rotation - I use a "standard" five wheel rotation pattern
 

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The hubs stay on the axles, and don't come off with the tires. So it's done as a normal rotation....
 

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For someone who is totally unfamilar to this and is only used to common cars, I can see how one might think this.

But the wheels and tires themselves are the same. In the front wheel is a plastic center ring that goes around the hub, and comes off with the wheel. In the back wheel is a solid plastic center piece that comes out. When you rotate tires, you do have to pop these plastic pieces out and switch them between the front and back wheels. If they don't slide out, then they pop in and out easily with block of wood or whatever.
 

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While the plastic center ring that goes around the locking hub might give a little cleaner look to the wheel, it also holds water next to the hub. It is possible that this could increase the water seepage into the hub if the seals are marginal, increasing the need for cleaning and re-greasing.

Anyway I think my Kick looks "tougher" with bare hubs. (ie: Without the "center rings.") Plus without the rings in place you can service the hubs without removing the wheel from the car.

BUT the center CAPS look (and are) just fine on the rear. I remove them from the wheel with a quick pop of the heel of my hand on the face of the cap.
 

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I remove them from the wheel with a quick pop of the heel of my hand on the face of the cap.
I have had to stand or stomp on them to get some out. But the OP has not said if that is what he was concerned about.
 

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Wheel rotation is normal. The manual locking hubs stay on the axle when the wheel is removed. The hubcap is snapped into the wheel and will come off with the wheel.

For those worried about keeping your manual locking hubs dry, here's a hubcap with a cover from Black Rock that might work for you.

To reach the manual locking hub, pry off the cover.

Under the cover is my Warn manual locking hub.

A tool, called the "Hubber," is available to turn the hub.

9/10ths of a turn is all it takes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the explanation. I wasn't really familiar with all that. I really thought tires have to be deflated, removed, put on new wheels, and then re-inflated. Thanks!
 

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... For those worried about keeping your manual locking hubs dry, here's a hubcap with a cover from Black Rock that might work for you. ...
IMHO: That looks like a PITA.

I'd rather just put a "normal" hub cap over the whole wheel and remove it to lock/unlock the hub.

Even better.... Fix the seals in the hub. :rolleyes:

But there isn't any reason to "hold" water next to a hub with a trim ring, unless you REALLY like the smoother look. I do not.

Your rig, your money....
 

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The spinning motion of the hub keeps them dry and so does the outer oring.
 
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