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Discussion Starter #1
I need to temporarily remove the rear tailgate on my '87.

I tried punching out the pins in the hinges- they didn't budge. Tried loosening the 2 hinge bolts- they're TIGHT. And it looks like the paint might break if I loosen them.

What's the best way to do this?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Do the pins come out going up or down, or does it matter? I can see a knurl on the pin, but don't know if they have a head or are just straight pins.

Thanks,
 

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The pins will come out with a press, but I have never been able to use the hinges afterward. They don't go back in 'factory tight' after that. Better to remove the screws.
 

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Don't try to remove the pins or cut the hinges like you would do your doors.

What you want to do is remove the two pozidrive screws attaching the hinge to the body. If you don't have a tool like this, the best method I have found is to cut a notch in the screw head and attempt to turn it counter-clockwise by hitting a cold chisel firmly with a hammer. I used a Dremel tool with a 1 1/2" EZ Lock cut-off wheel to cut the notch.

This method worked on the tailgate hinges and the 4 screws that hold the roll bar to the floor/wheel well just recently for me.Reassemble with new hex flange head or socket head bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If you don't have a tool like this, the best method I have found is to cut a notch in the screw head and attempt to turn it counter-clockwise by hitting a cold chisel firmly with a hammer. I used a Dremel tool with a 1 1/2" EZ Lock cut-off wheel to cut the notch.
I don't have that tool (although it looks cool), and I want the doors off NOW, so I'll try your trick.

Thanks to you and Bill for the warning on the pins. That's why I come here!

FWIW, I'm using the Zuke to haul my Rodenator (Google it) around. We have thousands of prairie dogs, spread over close to 3,000 acres and I'm spending this winter reducing the population. I want to set the Rodenator up in the 'Zuke and use it as an ATV with a windshield and heater. I'll be driving all over the pasture and the Zuke is easy on the prairie grass. With the tailgate out of the way, I'll have easy access to the O2 and propane bottles (protector goes back on the O2 before I drive back home, of course).
 

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The screws are locked using Suzuki's special thread locker sealant and it doesn't hurt (except maybe to your paint) to apply heat to the bolts to melt the sealant.

On the pins, I saw a thread somewhere recently where someone did the hinge mod on the tailgate, and when he opened the tailgate, it fell off. It seems that the pin is fixed on the top part of the hinge on the tailgate instead of the bottom as on the door.

Does it work on moles? I have what seems to be thousands of moles on my .5 acres. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It seems that the pin is fixed on the top part of the hinge on the tailgate instead of the bottom as on the door.

Does it work on moles? I have what seems to be thousands of moles on my .5 acres. :)
That's what I thinking. The knurling at the top suggest that's where it's held, not at the bottom.

The Rodenator will _destroy_ moles, but it's kind of pricey for just that purpose.
 

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Removing door and tailgate hinges is VERY easy.
Heat the phillips head bolt so that the paint is gone.
Before it cools too much, use a good quality screw driver or torgue driver and turn it out before it is completely cooled...it will be hot so do NOT touch it with bare hands.
When replacing them, use neverseize or some such.
Then repaint them with some rust prevention goo. (do it before they are replaced in the hinges)
Clean the threads with a thread chaser of some kind.
Some use locktite semi-permanent (blue I think)
If done this way u can remove them several times without significant damage.
U must be cautious to tighten them close to spec or they will back out and drop away where u will likely not find them.
 

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when you reinstall the door, save yourself the pain and use a hex head.. sure it isn't smooth and slick, but neither is a buggered up chisseled out philip head screw with a rattle can paint job.

I think I might buy one of those guaranteed screw drivers... if that thing works It's gold!
 

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I have an electric impact driver and it worked on most of my screws under the dash, and on the tail gate. The door hinges though... I snapped 3 driver bits trying to break those loose... That hammer blow one might work. It's less vibration and probably has hardened bits.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Tailgate's off. Using an impact driver, 2 came off with Phillips, 2 stripped. I Dremel'ed a slot and immediately broke my smaller straight bit. Switched to the stouter one and got the last two bolts off.
 

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you could arc or mig a bolt to the head of the screw and shield the hinge and door so it doesn't get spattered or scorched. I've heard of someone using that method too. Someone on here in fact posted it in a different topic
 

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Welding a nut onto the screw head does two things.
-It applies the heat necessary to loosen the factory locktight compound.
-It provides a solid tool surface that you can grab ahold of (with a wrench, socket, etc.)

For those wanting to try it, only (rosette) weld through the center of the nut. this decreases spatter and does less damage to the surrounding metalwork.

Remove the screw while it is still hot (because of the softened locktight compound), but be careful.

All of this is assuming that the individual has access to a welder and the experiance to use it.
;)
 
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