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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Saw i had an oil leak between the engine and transmission, i wiped it all down and ran the engine for 10min and it was dripping oil again already...... How hard is it to replace the rear main seal? Could also be the oil pan gasket, truck only has 67000km. Here is a picture of where the leak is.



Thanks

Kris
 

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Common for the "O" ring on the distributor to leak...

..... Philip
 

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Cam / valve cover gasket? :huh:

You could also try a Hail Mary dose of...



(or alike), in an attempt to plump up tired seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Cam / valve cover gasket? :huh:

You could also try a Hail Mary dose of...



(or alike), in an attempt to plump up tired seals.
I checked the engine preaty much everywhere last night and no oil can be seen other then between the transmission and engine....i even touched the top of the bell housing and its dry as well so i dont think oil is running down from somewhere else.
 

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What kind of oil are you using in your engine? I have had a slight rear seal leak for quite a while - not enough really for concern, so I'm waiting for my next clutch job (if ever). However, I don't run synthetic oil, as I have heard of the possibility of them exacerbating such leaks, as they cause the engine to run 'cleaner'.
 

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Pretty good drip! :(

IF you just put the Lucas in, in could take days (maybe weeks) to possibly take affect.

It's worth a shot.
 

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I don't know much about either product, or how long it should take the Lucas product to work, but am pretty good at researching the internet - apparently the idea of Lucas is a thicker oil, which coats the seal and might stop the leak. The reviews are some good, some not so good. However, there is also this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atp-at205
This is more of a plastic compound - I know that some posters here use the AT-205 in their auto trannies with pretty good success. You may want to do some research on it, comparing the two, and reading up on some of the reviews.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I don't know much about either product, or how long it should take the Lucas product to work, but am pretty good at researching the internet - apparently the idea of Lucas is a thicker oil, which coats the seal and might stop the leak. The reviews are some good, some not so good. However, there is also this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atp-at205
This is more of a plastic compound - I know that some posters here use the AT-205 in their auto trannies with pretty good success. You may want to do some research on it, comparing the two, and reading up on some of the reviews.....
Thanks for all the suggestions guys, i will leave the lucas in for a week or so and if it still leaks i will have to take out the transmission and transfer case and repkace the seal, i am ot one for believing in mechanics in a bottle, this started after a weekend of offroading so i am thinking so dirt/mud got in there and damaged the seal..... Just my luck i guess, not sure how hard it will be to remove a transmission/transfer case on my front lawn though.
 

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The best way is to take out the old seal and carry it to the shop. People there will measure it and find a replacement from other cars. I did replace mine even without telling the shop the seal was for Suzuki car!

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'96 (07/95) Sidekick Sport 16V, 1.8L, 4 auto, 4x4, 4dr, A/C, ABS, 87K on odometer.
 

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The best way is to take out the old seal and carry it to the shop
Locating and obtaining a replacement seal for the application is the easy part. Although I am unsure of what specific vehicle / engine combo the OP has, replacement seals are abundant Auto Parts Store fare.

The biggest concerns at this point (IMO) is confirming, then determining the cause of the suspected rear main leak (crank surface imperfections? Crank run-out from excessive bearing clearance? Age / mileage seal deterioration?). Then whether special seal install tooling and talent is required to perform the replacement task. And of course the significant interference removal associated with the repair.

Additionally, IF a standard trans configuration...renew the clutch components, pilot bearing and resurface the flywheel while engaged? :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Locating and obtaining a replacement seal for the application is the easy part. Although I am unsure of what specific vehicle / engine combo the OP has, replacement seals are abundant Auto Parts Store fare.

The biggest concerns at this point (IMO) is confirming, then determining the cause of the suspected rear main leak (crank surface imperfections? Crank run-out from excessive bearing clearance? Age / mileage seal deterioration?). Then whether special seal install tooling and talent is required to perform the replacement task. And of course the significant interference removal associated with the repair.

Additionally, IF a standard trans configuration...renew the clutch components, pilot bearing and resurface the flywheel while engaged? :rolleyes:
Yeah i'm not worries about not finding a seal at all, my truck is a 98 Tracker 2 door convertible that has done 67 000km (yes original km's) , didn't have any leaks until i went offroading last sunday and almost got stuck in a deep mud hole, i imagine so dirt got in there and damaged the seal. Here is my tracker

 

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got stuck in a deep mud hole, i imagine so dirt got in there and damaged the seal
That's pretty difficult to do, from the "dirt" damage standpoint, but I guess remotely possible. :huh:

Have you checked thoroughly areas like the oil filter and oil pressure sending unit for signs of oil (running down and aft) leakage?

I'm a little apprehensive about supporting the off-roading / dirt / seal damaged scenario causing a rear main leak, is all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah i checked the whole motor and no oil can be seen anywhere other then between the transmission and engine area.
 

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Then a probable 1.6 Sidekick seal is appropriate. DO check applicability though as I don't see a Chevrolet or Geo Tracker version listed (at least at) RockAuto.

1998 SUZUKI SIDEKICK Crankshaft Seal

An example...

More Information for TIMKEN 710334
Material Polyacrylate
Shaft Size 2.677"
Housing Bore 3.386"
Width 0.315"
Outside Diameter 0.315"
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 0928368001, 0928368002, 96065634

Do you have the OE Service Manual showing installation particulars?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Unfortunately i don't and i will have to do this on my front lawn as i don't have a garage.
 

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Check the top "Sticky" Tech section thread for a possible Service Manual download! :)
 
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