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Discussion Starter #1
I have a silly question?I had to replaced my U-joints on my rear shaft of my zuk,I did mark the position it was in but being my luck my marks were wiped away by the grease and now im not sure which way I had it?Yoke to the front or rear?Also, i now have a vibration which tells me I dont have it in the right position.I did have to take the shaft apart to do the repair and im wondering if I may have the splines off as well? Im kinda embarassed to even ask,I have done so many of these U-joint repair in my youth it was crazy and now I screw this simple fix up!! lol Just need some input??
 

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you need to have the ends of the ujoints offset by 45 degrees from one another. If you have them dead on or at 90 they will get bad vibrations. The splined shaft goes to the side with the t-case the sleeve goes to the diff.
 

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Uh...
The U-joints need to be 'In Phase' when sliding the shafts back together in order to lessen the vibration. There is a small dot on both sides of the driveshaft to show you where the splines line up.
Here is a picture of a driveshaft showing the ujoints lined up.



These are front shafts (stock and aftermarket)
 

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my rear shaft has never been seperated and the two sets of ears are about 45 degrees out of line from one another. I don't have any drive shaft vibrations and I take my rig up to 75mph on a regular basis. I did have to replace the rear u-joints last year. They were 22 years old and had over 160K miles on them. No vibrations before or since the replacement of the ujoints.
My thinking is that The Ujoints are phased out of line to compensate for the rear diff being about 10 degrees off paralell from the transfer case. A driveshaft is only in phase with the yokes in line if the input and output shafts are on a parallel plane. You can only have about one degree of variance. Unless you've changed the tcase angle or the rear diff angle, they are not going to be parallel on the samurai.
 

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For what it's worth - what Billjohn is saying is the way I know it should be - and the way it is on my vehicle.
 

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it's certainly the way the FSM says it should be. I just went out and pulled my shafts apart and my alignment dot was off by 2 splines. 22.5 degrees per spline, I was exactly 45 degrees out of phase. I'll see if I notice a change on the freeway and post results. I suppose the next step would be to get the pinion angles parallel (-3 degrees to account for lift while accelerating)
 

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Respect BillJohns Advice

;)Billjohns pics and advice are spot on ! This is the standard practice for unijointed drive shafts in all applications.
Bill
 

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Mine was off by a couple of notches when I went to replace the u-joints on the rear shaft. The rear u-joint had been replaced, while the front one looked to be Suzuki OEM. The Suzuki joint was in much better condition than the replacement joint.

I noticed no difference in vibration, except in the 10-20 mph range, which I atribute to the very loose rear u-joint. The vibration only occurs while accelerating, and is much reduced now.

Replacing the center shaft's UJoints friday. They are replacement joints as well, and are loose, but nowhere near as bad as the rear one was. Hoping that cures all of the 10-20 mph acceleration vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I did want to add I followed billjohns advice and all is ok now.Although being my luck now my starter has locked up on me & my throw out bearing to my clutch sounds like it about to go.lol At least when I get all the old factory parts replaced I should be good for a while!!I have had my zuk for 6 yrs now & before that is just sat for 5 yrs in my buddys yard.Thats the worst thing for one is to just sit around.
 

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FYI, I bought a brand new, not remanufactured, starter for my Samurai for $110 from a local independent parts store, NSA Part # STR3579 . You can also get them from Rockauto.com

If you buy anything from Rockauto, 35022552780319 in the "How Did You Hear About Us?" field gives a 5% discount.

 
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