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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
You can call this "Part 2" to my overheating thread a while back. I have been running a new OEM stat with the jiggle pin removed for about 2 months now. the problem with it even though it doesn't overheat anymore if i drive it on short trips (under 1.5 hours). it might get hot if i drive it for more than 2 hours (as if the thermostat closes again after 2 hours. if i let if cool completely off and drive it again it will run fine. temps are now in the 20s (finally) (*C i live in Canada).

ok enough with that referring to the title. the modified stat is killing my gas mileage as it takes forever to warm up. now I have my permanent solution. im going to put a gutted thermostat in the factory mount and i got a MEZIERE inline thermostat housing that will go in the upper rad hose on the hot side of the engine (like on a small block Chevy) oh and the housing takes standard small block thermostats! im going to use a stant 180F superstat because it has built in bleeder valves. il post pics in a few hours.
 

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Will be interesting to see your results. This, of course, assumes that it is the thermostat that is causing the problem. As you advise that your car still gets hot - even with the jiggle pin removed - I would think that this is just masking a problem from elsewhere. It is logical that the car will take forever to warm up with, basically, a hole in your thermostat.
 

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Good luck with that!

Bear in mind this one fact though - the thermostat doesn't open until the wax pellet is hot enough to expand, so it's opening is dependent on the pellet being surrounded by hot coolant, as would happen if it was located in or close to the cylinder head - you're going to be locating it in the coolant circuit, roughly two feet away from the cylinder head outlet - there's very little circulation going on - until the thermostat opens - which just may be the problem you're faced with now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So to allow flow to the thermostat i relocated the bypass line that goes to the throttle body to the back of the new housing (just before the stat). the results so far are very positive. it warms up in about 1.5 minutes.
here are some pictures (i guess this would be a good time for a 56k warning)

here are the parts used
Auto part Engine Vehicle Car Pipe

housing with thermostat installed
Auto part Pipe Suspension part Steel Vehicle
Auto part Headlamp Automotive lighting Light Vehicle

the gutted stock stat which goes in the original housing
Tire Auto part Wheel Automotive wheel system Rim

fitting tapped into the back of the housing for the bypass line
Vehicle Motor vehicle Auto part Car Wheel

installed coolant pipe and hose
Engine Auto part Vehicle Car Fuel line

installed in car and running (notice the big brass sender on the pipe, this goes to a temp gauge in the car)
Engine Auto part Fuel line Vehicle Car
Auto part Engine Fuel line Vehicle Car
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got this idea from the Land-rover forums. (they use this housing to simplify the cooling system on the discovery 2 (they drill holes in their stats though instead of running a bypass line) some people with jeeps, and mustangs used this mod as well.



also this mod works with the other J motors as well (and hotter stats can be used too)
 

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Odd you have/had overheating problems, especially in Canada. I live in the high Nevada desert and have never overheated, even in 100 degree weather with the AC on. I'm still running the stock 1.8 radiator with a larger 2.3 in it now. It never overheated with either engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah i found it weird too. on that other thread i tried everything, and the fix i have been running was a band aid (it killed my mileage).

I have looked on theads with 1.8's overheating and they end up being 12 page long dead ends. so i thought id be a bit creative to solve the problem (also parts for these are getting hard to acquire without being silly expensive, the thermostat one of them (I had to wait for 2 weeks for my oem replacement that didn't solve the problem)) i knew it was the stat though as every time it overheated the rad was ice cold.

anyway an update:
Engine Auto part Vehicle Fuel line Car
the inline stat mod works great. i had to iron out one kink though, the heater hose on the back of the engine was bypassing to much coolant to the heater core causing a bubble of cold coolant between the heater core inlet and the new stat housing (and i can see this with my temperature gauges) this would cause the temperature to spike if i drove it hard or up a hill (it plummets back down to 185 once the stat catches up). in case you are wondering i put that valve there to bleed air out when filling (it seals that good now ;) )

as shown here the heater hose was relocated to just behind the housing, reducing the "lag". that pipe had to be heavily modified (those bungs are brazed on with silver solder) the big brass sender goes to my second temperature gauge (that gives readings in plain ol *F like temp gauges should) with this mod warmups are quick and the engine holds 185 all the time, oh and my gas milage is better :)
Auto part Pipe Fuel line Engine Plumbing

Those of you with overheating 1.8's and you have tried everything, this is how you solve the problem
 

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Pretty wild setup you have there. Glad it works for you, and I will bookmark it for future reference if I ever have overheating problems. I see you ran your temp gauge off your modified coolant line. I have always wanted to put a good set of "real" gauges in mine and will someday.

Off topic, but would you happen to have a sound clip of your Magnaflow muffler?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I took a sound clip but i dont know how to upload it on here :/
yeah its pretty wild, but it works. and +1 for real gauges (why dont all cars have em?) (I like autometer sport comps, accurate and easy to read even in the small 2 1/16 size)
 

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Yea, I'm kind of a gauge nut myself. I had 2 5/8" Autometer Phantoms in my Samurai. Just not sure where to put gauges in the Sidekick. Here was my old Samurai dash....

 

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I use 1½" gauges, you can fit three across in any DIN space - it does require a custom mount to suit the space though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have mine mounted currently under the dash but i sometimes bash my knees on it :mad:. i dont like the lack of places to put gauges in kicks either. i really dig the Phantoms though. they really look nice!. im thinking the next best place is on the A pillar (I have the cups i just need to mount them. il have pics when i do though ;)
 

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I thought about an A pillar pod setup also. Although the Sidekick pillar is so vertical, not sure if the angle of the gauges would be right. There really is no other place, except the DIN slot like Fordem suggested. The Samurai was easy as the vent and clock holes were perfect for 2 5/8" gauges. I didn't even how to use the mounting hardware they fit so tight in there. Here's the gauges I had in my old Supra Turbo...

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wow that looks good. bet that supra was a hoot to drive, i guess the Sami was built to have gauges in it.
 

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Yea, I sold it as the temptation to go fast was too great with 320 rwhp. Mild by comparison to some others, but still can get you in trouble in a hurry. They say turbos are addicting, and they are correct. I went from 166 rwhp to 320 with simple bolt-on's. Sold it about 10 years ago, but it was sure fun while it lasted.....


 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
hahaha that's one of the reasons I love my Kick. sometimes its more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow. that's a nice car though ;)

anyway an update: so I ran my fisrt tank of gas through my kick and I got 430KM out of about 45 liters, with some hard driving. I think that is incredible considering before i couldn't even get 375 out of a tank. I also learned that the factory temp gauge will read in the middle between 170-230F. I assume this is there so there are no temperature swings in the readings with day to day driving. my real temp gauge you can see these "swings" happen. on warm up the gauge will creep to around 195 then the stat opens and it will hover between 180-190 depending on what you are doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sorry to resurrect this old thread but I have another update. I have moved the heater line once more to behind the thermostat housing (as in right on it as the below picture shows).
Engine Vehicle Auto part Car Motor vehicle

temperatures hold much more stable and now the thermostat responds much more gradually (doesn't cause the gauge to swing fast when it opens). for those of you in colder climates who are doing this keep in mind that this thermostat was designed to cool an engine with twice as many cylinders and 3 times the displacement. I think next will be a grill cover for the winter months to keep it warm in there (the rads in these things are massive compared to the size of the engine).
 
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