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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 90 and a 94 Sami, both recently purchased. I noticed a couple weeks ago when moving the 90 that even though I had just started it, a few minutes later I went to start it again and the key just turned with nothing. No clicks from the starter relay, or whatever it is that usually clicks constantly when the battery's dead. You can hear the relays in the ECM click and that's it. I wasn't too concerned because that Sami is not the one I'm not currently using or fixing and I just figured it was something wrong with that particular one since it really is a piece of junk anyway.
Today after finishing timing belt and all the stuff that gets replaced with it, I started the 94 and it started right up, no problem. A few minutes later when I went to start it again to take it for a test drive the same thing happened that happens with the 90 I have. Turn the key a few times, nothing but relay sounds coming from the passenger side. But if I keep trying the key, eventually it does actually turn over and start. I've read about some starter relay problems the Sami's have but I don't think that's what this is, or is it, even though both mine don't do the constant clicking while the key is turned?
And BTW, I did not disconnect any wires or loosen any during all the work I did.
Thanks in advance,
Chris
 

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Most likely you'll need to get one of the clickity starter kits. That's how they sound when you need to put in the relay kit. You can hear the ecm click under the glove box area but nothing else happens. Mine acted the same way and the clickity starter fix cured it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Okay thanks. I wasn't sure I was getting as much clicking as the "clickety starter" problem described so I figured I'd ask here to make sure it wasn't possibly something else.
Thanks guys
 

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What happens is that the current for the starter solenoid goes through the ignition switch, just like you might suppose. The starter solenoid is an INDUCTIVE load, which causes arcing when the switch is released, because the flyback voltage of the solenoid coil is not suppressed. Over time, this arcing causes pitting and erosion of the switch contacts until they will NOT carry the full current. [I've measured my solenoid current at just over 9 Amperes!]. Of course you could replace the ignition switch, but the problem remains. [I believe it is a Suzuki design flaw which doesn't appear until long after the warranty has expired. I would never get away with an un-suppressed 9Amp coil in my day job!]

The clicky-starter fix adds a relay, so that the ignition switch carries ONLY the relay coil current, around one-eighth of an Ampere. Even a pitted and eroded switch contact can carry that small amount of current and you (and I) are back on the road again. I prefer the version which has a fuse in the (+) lead to the battery; it might prevent a fire in case of a wiring short. A 15 Amp ATO/ATC style blade fuse seems about right, based on my one measurement.

Edit: The relay may fail eventually too. But it's easy and inexpensive to replace.

Note: The Harbor Freight Remote Starter Switch #35448 ($8, or less on sale) got me going, while over a thousand miles from home, when my Samurai stopped starting while in Oregon. You could likely find an equivalent at any auto parts store.

Pic at: http://www.suzuki-forums.com/gallery/images/45520/1_HF_35448.gif
 

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had what I thought was a clicky starter, and it turned out the cable to the solenoid was just gunked up with oil and crap and the connector was loose. I pulled it off, cleaned it up, crimped a new connector on the end of the cable and bolted it back on. Havn't had an issue with it since. (2 years now) knock on wood.
 

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Just incase of an emergency let down with my starter relay I carry a backup relay in the glovebox. I haven't mounted mine to a dry location yet because of the cold weather. It has gotten water logged and failed once already in the snow and wet conditions. I also carry a jumper wire about 2' long that has a female spade on one end and is bare on the other. I used it until I got my relay kit. I just set the parkbrake with the trans in neutral, key switch on and hook the the jumper to the spade at the bottom of the solenoid and touch the bare end to the positive post of the battery. Fires right up but just need to be CAREFUL of getting run over. Remember safty first.
 
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