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Discussion Starter #1
My buddy (owner) and I (guy with the tools, time, and space) are fixing his 86 samurai. We will be putting a new tub on since his was rolled and doors are good in Washington. What are good upgrades that we can do to it as we go, preferably on the cheaper end of things. It is stock in every way and will be used for mild wheeling/camping and commuter.
 

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is it a tintop or a soft top? If there's a risk of rolling it again, you may want to look into a cage for it and some harnesses to keep you in.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Was a tin, new tub is a soft with partial cage (needs to be welded back together). I was thinking of going with jeep yj springs in sua setup, with power steering.

The context of the question is what can I scrounge from wrecking yards for better braking, power steering, suspension components, and anything that might be a useful addition that I can build, fabricate or find on sale to improve the vehicle.

Things like this thread_ Upgraded Headlights?
 

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Cheap is not always an upgrade...

But that being said, the most inexpensive upgrade I can think of for your carbed '86 will be the Carb Vent Tube. You can get it for under $10 and it will make a major change in throttle response (or lack there of).
Check it out on the Petroworks site here:
Drive Train - PetroWorks


When you get to suspension upgrades, cheap... ain't. Not in the long run.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I understand you get what you pay for but one doesn't need to spend five grand for an after-market lift, when one can build something equivalent for far less. I just don't know what all would work on something this small. Trying to see what others have done and what they would recommend if they could redo it.

Eg, build an incredible winch bumper but using the stock mounts didn't work right and eventually failed, so the second time around they extended the mounting plates to run down the frame to the engine mounts to solve the problem.
 

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;)

Glad you understand.
I have seen far too many new zook owners think that they can do a safe lift for $100 and then complain when it folds on the trail.

If you only want to go up a tire size or two you can do a shackle lift.
When the shackle lift is more than 2 inches above stock, then using taller springs get you farther (and safer).
Planning for 4.5" or more would point at a SPOA lift and a high-steer solution.
Throwing in a smoother ride will point to a YJ conversion.

Anything larger than a 2" shackle lift will require longer/repositioned brake lines. Also longer shocks with repositioned mounts. And given enough height and/or articulation you will want to look into longer (and stronger) driveshafts or spacers depending on the lift.

All of these have lots of threads with pictures. If you can't find what you want to see from the search dropdown up top, shout and we can post some pics.

Welcome to the addiction!
;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So far I've read most of the posts up to page 16, and it just keeps going. already copied a few down for later.

Soon as I can I'll get some pics up. and maybe a concept drawin.

The plan stands as thus,

Full roll cage
_shelves to hold etc.

Sliders that intra-grate into front bumper

front bumper
_stinger, winch, lights, D-ring/ tow bar mount, 2"receiver, led turn signals blacked out

rear bumper
_2"receiver, led tail lights blacked out

Suspension
_jeep yj springs and posibly steering correction
_power steering, 29"s or equivalent from treadwright.com

Yes I can't spell.
 

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Sounds like a good plan.
I would look for 6 leaf YJ packs for your install. They will sag less with the weight you are looking at adding.
The 6 leaf packs were stock on factory V8/Hardtop models.
 
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