Suzuki Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm slowly getting through my list of things to do to my newly acquired 1990 Sierra before I start taking it out on adventures into the never.

$2000 has been set aside to refresh the engine - reconditioning my 1300 with forged pistons, installing a HD CV carb, hi-flow filter, and extractors and exhaust upgrade. Cheap, reliable, simple, bulletproof (touch wood).


Next on the list is sorting the interior and bodywork - rustproofing is priority #1, followed by a seat replacement and new interior trim. After that I should have a nice little runner.

My plan is to Rhinoline or Line-X (or similar product) the entire interior and cut some rubber mats to fit the footwells/firewall and rear stow area, but right now i'm concerned with the rubbery sound-deadening caulking I can find under all the carpets - it's everywhere!!!

Will the Line-X adhere to this properly or am I going to have to strip it out? There's no point me skimping out here, because the coastal salt will eat my car alive if I take a shortcut.


For now i've just fish-oiled the underside of the floorpan chassis rails and wheel arches, but eventually I want that completely sound deadened, heat resistant, and rust proof too. Could I use Line-X on the underside too, or is there a more specific product for this application?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,862 Posts
I know it's warm in the 'land down under' right now, so this will work for you...
Strip out the carpeting, and the seats while you are at it.
Grab a few bags of ice.
Pour the ice on the tar in the footwells.
Let sit for about an hour.
(pull the drainplugs)
Once you have just about frozen the tar, move the ice and whack it with a hammer.
It will shatter into a thousand pieces.
Scoop it out and you are done.

Living in the desert southwest, I had to come up with this method to do my lining a few summers ago. I prepped one zook in the cold of the morning, but the other was done during a really hot weekend.
Spray-in Liner
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
How should I approach rustproofing the insides of the quarter panels and door panels? A quick coat of KillRust? Would it be practical to Line-X these cavities also?


Also - what's up with the spot welding rather than a full seam along many of the panels in the interior - along the window line of the car doors, in the footwell panels... the more I look the more I find..... or is that just my car? I want the panels fully seamed up - for function, appearance and maintenence sakes.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,862 Posts
Yes, and... yes.

About the welding... welcome to our addiction!

Because the rig comes from the factory with a strong full frame, The body isn't going to flex as much as others. I lined the interior and have had no cracking. So it must stay together pretty well (my zook has certainly been more than abused...).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
Now that's a really cool trick. (ug)
But I don't understand why you have to remove the caulk? What am I missing?
:huh:
What does it do to the coating?
If you coat both sides, do you still have to remove the caulk? Wouldn't it be encapsulated?

thanks,
george
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I'm just going from the web page of Line-X or Rhino Liner or one of the similarly related manufacturer webpages - they mention it's best to strip the panels of any caulking or rubber, as the liner spray won't bond to the panel surface as convincingly as it will to metal due to compression and expansion of the softer surface... weakpoints, so to speak.

Plus - as Billjohn said - if you take out your carpet, the blobs of tar look way ugly after 20 years of abuse. Spend an extra hour or two on prep and the floorpan will look way better after treatment - worth it in the long run.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top